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05 wide glide electrical problems

gulfbird

New Member
I had to replace the battery on my 05 wide glide. As i was tightening up the battery carrier, the positive post touched the frame and began smoking. Possibly from burning through the protective rubber cap. I reset the battery, but the bike was dead. Have since checked all fuses (they were good), replaced relays in fuse box and had the battery recharged. Still wont start. I waited a few weeks before trying to put the battery back in after charging it, and this time I got a fast clicking sound coming from down by the relays when i turned the switch on. Could even feel the two relays clicking. Head light was very weak when the switch was on. Now its back to being dead. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Rusty
 
Welcome to the forum.

If the the headlight was dim when the switch was turned on. It is one of two things. The battery is dead or you have bad connections. Check all battery connections. That means remove the ends clean them and re-connect. All cables have TWO ENDS. remove and clean BOTH ENDS.
 
I had to replace the battery on my 05 wide glide. As i was tightening up the battery carrier, the positive post touched the frame and began smoking. Possibly from burning through the protective rubber cap. I reset the battery, but the bike was dead. Have since checked all fuses (they were good), replaced relays in fuse box and had the battery recharged. Still wont start. I waited a few weeks before trying to put the battery back in after charging it, and this time I got a fast clicking sound coming from down by the relays when i turned the switch on. Could even feel the two relays clicking. Head light was very weak when the switch was on. Now its back to being dead. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Rusty

Hmmm. You should not have had a circuit when the positive terminal touch the frame unless the negative cable was already connected to the negative terminal (this is a no no. Neg cable off first, on last!!). But on your WG, I know the battery box raises back up after connecting the cables to the terminals. Make sure the "top" on the box is not too bent in so that it will contact the positive terminal. You might put a non-conducting spacer on the top of the battery before putting the top on the box and raising it with the bolt.

If there was a circuit, then there may be a bunch of problems up to and including a fried ECM. But you will have to start looking for burnt/grounded wires. This is a long tedious process. But something is shorting the battery (assuming you have had the battery checked to make sure it is OK).

Good luck.

TQ
 
The first thing to do would be Load test the battery, always start at the source and work out from there:s Negative cable off first and on last to prevent possible shorts always a good rule IMO
 
Had the battery tested last night. Its defective. Got a new battery for it, hooked it up, now it sounds like the solenoid is clicking. It almost sounds like a weak battery when you try to start it. From what I described of my situation earlier, could I have fried something else? Or is it still battery issue? I had to get the battery from NAPA if that makes any difference.
Thanks for all the help and advice
 
Does the plunger in the solenoid sound like it is extending before the clicking? Just clicking and no movement?
 
Had the battery tested last night. Its defective. Got a new battery for it, hooked it up, now it sounds like the solenoid is clicking. It almost sounds like a weak battery when you try to start it. From what I described of my situation earlier, could I have fried something else? Or is it still battery issue? I had to get the battery from NAPA if that makes any difference.
Thanks for all the help and advice

Hook up as volt meter on the starter, what is the voltage drop when you hit the start button?
 
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