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103 Stage 4 Starting Problem

ARSchmitty

New Member
Ultra Limited with a Stage 4 kit, race tuner, and V&H Monster Ovals. Approximately 3000 miles on the motor since upgrading to the Stage 4. The issue is it won't re-start when hot. After 5 minutes or so it starts fine. Harley Shop has re-tuned several times but has not solved the problem. I am new to the site and thought someone might have info on a direction to take to correct the problem.
 
ARSchmitty welcome to the forum. What do you mean by "won't re-start"? Does it crank over but won't fire up, no crank at all, cranks and tries to start but sputters and misses, has the bike thrown any codes, etc. The more info you can supply the easier it will be for the members here to help you with your issue.

I agree with the need for the compression releases as CalgaryBikeBum stated.
 
The Stage 4 kit includes compression releases. When trying to re-start it turns over but won't fire. A little bit of throttle and it tries to start but sputters and still won't start. Wait 5-10 minutes and it's all good.
 
I'd ask What are the cold cranking pressures on you bike engine? Static pressure is what I would like to hear..

If they are under 190# OR not much Higher, AND your reliefs are Manual? AND enough Kicking over and Should start. Suggestion is;

You Might want to try ONE r-valve ON and one OFF to see if it starts easier..

I have heard of that making a difference with a stage 4....

NOT suggesting this will solve your starting problem BUT it Might , It does Sound tho, Like Hobbit suggests here ; A Need for More Cranking Power.. ?

The way I described what to try was INCASE your pressure is LOW ... If you post your pressure here I will RE comment if needed..:D

signed....BUBBIE

WHAT fueler are you using?
 
I once had a 103" SE stage4 with the same problem. I tried correcting the problem by changing maps in the SEPST and even having a custom map made on the dyno by a very well known tuner. Bike ran better but that didn't help starting. I had better results starting, when hot, if I would press the start button immediately after flipping the run switch to "RUN" (not waiting for the check engine light to go off) or holding holding the throttle almost wide open. The intake manifold, injectors and valves in that kit are pretty big for that build. I think the injector pulse during starting is part of the problem.
 
I once had a 103" SE stage4 with the same problem. I tried correcting the problem by changing maps in the SEPST and even having a custom map made on the dyno by a very well known tuner. Bike ran better but that didn't help starting. I had better results starting, when hot, if I would press the start button immediately after flipping the run switch to "RUN" (not waiting for the check engine light to go off) or holding holding the throttle almost wide open. The intake manifold, injectors and valves in that kit are pretty big for that build. I think the injector pulse during starting is part of the problem.

Good suggestion mopar,,,, Makes sense and thinking another rider said the same thing a long while back..
Too much gas when first switched on and better starting while pump was UNDER pressured.. Be worth a TRY.

Thanks

Certainly not recommended for all bikes. All lights out before I start mine But close to stock is not the problem

signed....BUBBIE
 
Hi i can totaly say the boys a not off the mark you need compresion realise it should of been in the kit just check or a nother problem is that it could be leeking fuel in the cylinder its hapen to me.
 
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