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1999 Twin Cam New Cam Support Plate, Tensioners & High Volume oil Pump

roadkiller99

New Member
I have a 1999 Roadking First thing I can tell you and most important is the Cam Support plate. I blew out my rear cam bearing in 2001 and upgraded my cam's with the high lift Andrews 209. if the rear cam bearings have not been replaced in your bike get it done. 6 months later I blew out my lower end and that may have been due to junk from the rear cam bearing blowing.

I have since upgraded my engine to 95 and I recently upgrade the cam support plate with hydraulic cam tensioners & High Volume oil pump. Now their is one major thing you must know if you do this upgrade since the engine is a 99 (not 99A) you must add a screw to the support back of the support plate where the tube for the oil flow would go for the new engines with the counter balance. See photo and the hole needs to be tapped first and a screw (HD #94667-00) with crush washer blue loctite . I would submit photos but this is my first post.

I went nuts and could not figure out why my oil pressure would not come up and talking to all kinds on mechanics final one old guy told me the deal and HARLEY does not disclose even when I bought the parts from them. lessons learned.

If you do upgrade to 95 inch kit keep an eye out on your your rear swing arm drive side. That swing arm is not meant to take a lot of power and mine broke in the middle right between the axle bolt. The rear swing arm was upgraded in 2002... Again Harley told no one.
 
What kind of price was the conversion? My rear swing arm broke twice, but since the last fix it has been over a year & 15K miles. I think the reason they break is because the taper on the axle bolt & the hole is 3/4 " on both sides, so when the bike hits a big bump the axle is supported by just part of that arm so it twists the arm & breaks it. Here is the thread .
Broken rear swing arm - Harley Davidson Community

Toby
 
What kind of price was the conversion? My rear swing arm broke twice, but since the last fix it has been over a year & 15K miles. I think the reason they break is because the taper on the axle bolt & the hole is 3/4 " on both sides, so when the bike hits a big bump the axle is supported by just part of that arm so it twists the arm & breaks it. Here is the thread .


Toby

It was about $5-6 to do it myself Surdyke Harley online for part # 25284-11 - KIT-CAM PLATE,HYBRID,W/HI-VOL OIL PuMP - Harley-Davidson® Parts and Accessories $399 for the kit.

Follow all Torques in the book bolts will strip easy in the case and BLUE LOCTITE all bolts except cam shaft and main bolts. They will supply new bolts with the red on it.

I did screaming eagle adjustable push rods (saves time in pulling the whole engine apart (cut old ones out). You will need the gasket kit, Screw Kit 25284-08 (this goes into the back of the cam support plate) while I was in there I also did new lifters (in for a pound in for a penny). You can do Cams if you really want but highest lift you can do is .515.

Now key thing is you use your old cam chain and sprockets. Make sure you follow directions to a tee when putting in new adjustable lifters. 2 1/2 turns use three wrenches 1/2 on top 5/16 to hold the bottom of rod and 1/2 wrench on locking nut. Make sure lifter is at lowest point and wait till you can turn the lifter before doing the next one.

See Photos and PDF instructions...

The job may look hard but if you have the knowledge it is easy. Please feel free to contact me with any other questions. I can always shot you my number and walk you through it.

PS see last photo of my swing arm. I welded a bar to top top and bottom for better support.. That (EDIT) ain't break again...

Please read this...

HDTimeline Language Policy - Harley Davidson Community

 

Attachments

  • Cam Plate and Oil Pump.pdf
    2 MB · Views: 24
  • Cam Support plate oil control.pdf
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  • Cam Support plate oil control 2.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 21
  • HD 99 Cam Support Plate Screw.jpg
    HD 99 Cam Support Plate Screw.jpg
    31.9 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG01083.jpg
    IMG01083.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 43
Last edited by a moderator:
It will break again. That is the way I did my first break. The second time it broke I took the nut to my machinist to cut the nut like the old mag lug nut. Now it has support on both sides of the arm.
I already have the adjustable push rods, but it is time to recheck the tensioners. I may not have the funds to go with the Hydrolic conversion yet & may have to do the tensioners again. But at least I have the Timken bearings in it already, so those should be ok.

Toby
 
Here is a pic of the nut.
100_1117.jpg





Toby
 
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