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2002 Dyna FXDP carb problems?

Hi,
Very frustrated and ready to throw the towel in and need some insight. I bought this "police" bike in 2006/2007 with approx 1100 miles on it. It was owned by a funeral director for traffic control and he never used it. It was completely stock. When i bought it, it had a hiccup whenever it was being run with very light throttle at a steady pace. it would due it intermittently but in an average 30 mile ride it would do it about 25 times. It made the ride very unenjoyable. It would run perfect between the hiccups, and started and idled fine. I took it to the local Harley dealer and they put in a #48 slow speed jet and verified that the carb was clean inside. It helped the problem a little but it still hiccupped. I continued to drive it sparingly with the hiccups but really hating it. I use 92 octane gas at all times and run seafoam in it every other tankful. This season i decide to take it to an independent shop and have the stage one done hoping this would cure the problem. The mechanic installed a K&N air cleaner assembly, Vance and Hines Straightshot exhaust, and a new "jet kit". I picked up the bike, and it still hiccups and it sounds like it (EDIT) through the carb. It idles perfectly still and runs great between the (EDIT)/hiccups. The mechanic said he will put a "thunderslide" on it and it should cure the problem. I am reluctant to do that and asked him if we can first try to change the three intake manifold gaskets since they have never been changed. He said he sprayed and checked them for leaks before intstalling the new a/c assembly. He said he is 110% sure the problem is not due to the gaskets. He said the "thunderslide" will have its own set of unique problems but will cure the hiccups. If i dont want to do the slide he said my only other choice is to replace the carb with an S&S carb. I just have a hard time beleiving that this stock carb cant be made to run without hiccups. After reading countless volumes of information on the internet my approach would be 1) replace the 3 intake gaskets 2) shim the needle with a washer. The mechanic said he will do the gaskets but said i am wasting money and the washer thing wont do a thing. I already paid $1200 for the pipes, a/c. jet kit and the installation and am running out of funds and dont mind spending more if it will cure the problem 100%. Im not real mechanical but was wondering if i could install the washer myself without removing the carb. Where do you find these washers? What should my next step be in trying to solve this problem...any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Please read and understand the info in this link...

A Friendly Reminder - Harley Davidson Community

 
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Have you had the carb rebuilt?
Link below has good info. Also check self help section under "fuel and carb issues".
Also easy way to test your intake gaskets is to spray some carb cleaner around them. If they leak, bike will begin to "sputter". No change in idle, then they are fine.

Harley Davidson Community
 
Hi,
Very frustrated and ready to throw the towel in and need some insight. I bought this "police" bike in 2006/2007 with approx 1100 miles on it. It was owned by a funeral director for traffic control and he never used it. It was completely stock. When i bought it, it had a hiccup whenever it was being run with very light throttle at a steady pace. it would due it intermittently but in an average 30 mile ride it would do it about 25 times. It made the ride very unenjoyable. It would run perfect between the hiccups, and started and idled fine. I took it to the local Harley dealer and they put in a #48 slow speed jet and verified that the carb was clean inside. It helped the problem a little but it still hiccupped. I continued to drive it sparingly with the hiccups but really hating it. I use 92 octane gas at all times and run seafoam in it every other tankful. This season i decide to take it to an independent shop and have the stage one done hoping this would cure the problem. The mechanic installed a K&N air cleaner assembly, Vance and Hines Straightshot exhaust, and a new "jet kit". I picked up the bike, and it still hiccups and it sounds like it (EDIT) through the carb. It idles perfectly still and runs great between the (EDIT)/hiccups. The mechanic said he will put a "thunderslide" on it and it should cure the problem. I am reluctant to do that and asked him if we can first try to change the three intake manifold gaskets since they have never been changed. He said he sprayed and checked them for leaks before intstalling the new a/c assembly. He said he is 110% sure the problem is not due to the gaskets. He said the "thunderslide" will have its own set of unique problems but will cure the hiccups. If i dont want to do the slide he said my only other choice is to replace the carb with an S&S carb. I just have a hard time beleiving that this stock carb cant be made to run without hiccups. After reading countless volumes of information on the internet my approach would be 1) replace the 3 intake gaskets 2) shim the needle with a washer. The mechanic said he will do the gaskets but said i am wasting money and the washer thing wont do a thing. I already paid $1200 for the pipes, a/c. jet kit and the installation and am running out of funds and dont mind spending more if it will cure the problem 100%. Im not real mechanical but was wondering if i could install the washer myself without removing the carb. Where do you find these washers? What should my next step be in trying to solve this problem...any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Please read and understand the info in this link...

A Friendly Reminder - Harley Davidson Community


To be honest, it sounds like your indie is just throwing parts at the bike at your expense. FIRST you have to find out WHY it's popping back and cure that problem.

The thunder slide as well as the carb kit is a waste of money and he is trying to mask the problem by adding more fuel but it is only masking the problem itself that will still be there. If you just rejet the CV carb with a #46 jet instead of the #48 and about a #185 or so main jet, lift the slide needle with 2- #4 brass washers that can be bought in a hardware store, the bike should run real good. There's a possibility that the slide diaphragm may be leaking or damaged in the upper portion of the carb like a pinhole which would require disassembling to check. This would show as a pop back while cruising when you try to apply more throttle because the slide isn't lifting and allowing more fuel in when needed thus running lean and popping back.
The popping could be due to a few possible things, all of which you can do yourself and get results. The plugs or wires being an 02 could cause the problem you are having depending on their age and condition and if they are original.Spark plug tips could be loose where the wires attach.
The most common cause for this type of problem is an intake leak. Your indie really IMO doesn't know what he's doing by what you posted here and the parts he has thrown at the bike so far with no results. I would find someone else that could help you out if you can't diagnose the problem yourself. Look through the self help area and you'll find all the info you need to diagnose an intake leak, services on the carb and many other topics that will make you a mechanic yourself.
 
Thank you glider for the informative response. I have another appt with the mechanic on monday to just replace the 3 intake gaskets. Im not going to do the slide that he suggested. Once i get the bike back, hopefully it should be cured, but if not i will attempt to get it back to the specs you suggested. I would first like to try and do the washer shimming on the needle first. I have studied all the information in the self help on this and feel the installation of the washers can be fairly simple. If i raise the rear of the tank, can i simply do this mod with the carb in place? I read that i had to disconnect a cable from the carb but would prefer not to do that if possible. If i remove the black carb top, and gentle remove each part, wouldnt this work? im aware of the gentle nature of the diaphram and feel with the tips that i read i can get it to seat if i gently do it like the instructions say. Thank you and sorry for the use of the innappropriate adjective.
 
After the carb has been used for a while the diaphragm gets a wee bit stretched and is just a wee bit of a pest to get it back in place and the carb top cover back on with the bead sitting all in the correct place
yes you can do it with the carb fitted but would be best to remove The tank so that you can get better access

Brian
 
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