Adjust rear brake pedal push rod

[lowrider1963]

I have a 2010 FXDC that I have put on larger Air Foil foot pegs. I adjusted my gear lever and want to do the same for the brake. However, I would like to adjust (raise) the brake up so it is a bit more like the pedals on a FLH with floor boards. However, I read somewhere that there was maximum amount of exposed threads on the push rod that could be exposed.

1.If this is true, how far can I actually adjust the rod.
2. If I can not adjust the brake with the stock rod, does HD make a slightly longer or adaptor for the push rod so I can adjust my brake pedal for a more comfortable ride and performance?

 

[Hoople]

I have a 2010 FXDC that I have put on larger Air Foil foot pegs. I adjusted my gear lever and want to do the same for the brake. However, I would like to adjust (raise) the brake up so it is a bit more like the pedals on a FLH with floor boards. However, I read somewhere that there was maximum amount of exposed threads on the push rod that could be exposed.

1.If this is true, how far can I actually adjust the rod.
2. If I can not adjust the brake with the stock rod, does HD make a slightly longer or adaptor for the push rod so I can adjust my brake pedal for a more comfortable ride and performance?

Adjust until no more than 9 threads are visible on pushrod.

 

[lowrider1963]

Thanks for the help. My old FXDL was 6 threads max, but I heard they redesigned the FXDC in 2006. Obviously that included the alignment and placement of the rear brake pedal.

 

[jaxdwg]

I have a 2010 FXDC that I have put on larger Air Foil foot pegs. I adjusted my gear lever and want to do the same for the brake. However, I would like to adjust (raise) the brake up so it is a bit more like the pedals on a FLH with floor boards. However, I read somewhere that there was maximum amount of exposed threads on the push rod that could be exposed.

1.If this is true, how far can I actually adjust the rod.
2. If I can not adjust the brake with the stock rod, does HD make a slightly longer or adaptor for the push rod so I can adjust my brake pedal for a more comfortable ride and performance?

I tried to adjust mine and it broke, so I made an Aircraft bolt so it would replace the stock one and adjusted it up til there is about 3/8" free pedal and now I can stop with just toe pressure and not have to twist my ankle down to stop. Very comfy now

 

[lowrider1963]

jaxdwg

Where did you get an aircraft bolt? How did you modify to work?

 

[jaxdwg]

jaxdwg

Where did you get an aircraft bolt? How did you modify to work?

Having been an aircraft mechanic since 76 I have always saved any hardware that I had and found it in my goodie box. the bolt broke while trying to adjust it so I drilled it out. I cut the head off the a/c bolt and threaded it the length of the bolt, making it a stud, then added a second nut so I could tighten it at both ends, like a jam nut. Then I adjusted the pedal up till the pedal was about 1/64th" from hitting the foot peg and tightened both nuts,one at each end of the stud. This put the pedal right up at the top of its travel. Now I just slide my foot over from the peg and can apply the brake with less the 1/2" travel and never get close to having to twist my ankle down to stop. "CAUTION" you must have that 1/64th" free play on the pedal so the compensating port in the master cylinder can relieve the fluid pressure on return so the brakes won't drag, "VERY IMPORTANT" but not difficult. Just like you must have that little bit of free-play in your car brake pedal in order for the brake to bleed back properly after brake application and release. A grade "8" bolt will work good from the parts house, in lew of an AN or NAS aircraft bolt, Which has a 180,000psi shear strength :13: --jack

 

[Jack Klarich]

Having been an aircraft mechanic since 76 I have always saved any hardware that I had and found it in my goodie box. the bolt broke while trying to adjust it so I drilled it out. I cut the head off the a/c bolt and threaded it the length of the bolt, making it a stud, then added a second nut so I could tighten it at both ends, like a jam nut. Then I adjusted the pedal up till the pedal was about 1/64th" from hitting the foot peg and tightened both nuts,one at each end of the stud. This put the pedal right up at the top of its travel. Now I just slide my foot over from the peg and can apply the brake with less the 1/2" travel and never get close to having to twist my ankle down to stop. "CAUTION" you must have that 1/64th" free play on the pedal so the compensating port in the master cylinder can relieve the fluid pressure on return so the brakes won't drag, "VERY IMPORTANT" but not difficult. Just like you must have that little bit of free-play in your car brake pedal in order for the brake to bleed back properly after brake application and release. A grade "8" bolt will work good from the parts house, in lew of an AN or NAS aircraft bolt, Which has a 180,000psi shear strength :13: --jack

Kudos, very good advice on the free travel very mis understood thing by a lot , have seen the smoking rear brakes too many times