I have a 2005 Dyna Super Glide with the side ignition. My battery was completely drained so I recharged the battery and when I go to put it back in as soon as I went to hook-up the negative terminal you can hear the fuel injection kick on...with the key off! Im sure this is what is draining the battery and I think it is probably a faulty ignition switch. Is there a way to check it with a volt meter and what would the proper reading be? What would be the best place to get a replacement? Thank-you in advance for anyones help.
Battery Drain
- Thread starter flexo6
- Start date
Welcome Flex06 to the HDTimeline forum and your first post. Hoop is eluding to finding out the status of the ignition switch, as it is one of the most used accessories on the bike, and subject to wear and tear over the years.
Although this thread is for original poster with an 883, the trouble shooting method for the battery discharge leakage current test described is a method to determine where that branch current is discharging your battery is going...
http://www.hdtimeline.com/sportster_models/25080-battery_drain_on_xl883c.html
Although this thread is for original poster with an 883, the trouble shooting method for the battery discharge leakage current test described is a method to determine where that branch current is discharging your battery is going...
http://www.hdtimeline.com/sportster_models/25080-battery_drain_on_xl883c.html
I have a cd service manual...and yes red\rdgray/redblack.
Hoople
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Place the voltmeter across the RED wire and Red/Gray wire. Hook up the battery. With the Key in the OFF position, you should read 12 volts (battery volts) if the switch is GOOD and Zero volts if the switch is BAD.
Now place the voltmeter across the RED and Red/Black wires. Hook up the battery. With the Key in the OFF position, you should read 12 volts (battery volts) if the switch is GOOD and Zero volts if the switch is BAD.
((When I say 12 volts, I really mean your source voltage which is probably 12.60- 12.70))
Now place the voltmeter across the RED and Red/Black wires. Hook up the battery. With the Key in the OFF position, you should read 12 volts (battery volts) if the switch is GOOD and Zero volts if the switch is BAD.
((When I say 12 volts, I really mean your source voltage which is probably 12.60- 12.70))
ok..I did both ways and I got 12.57 volts at both connections....what next????lol
Hoople
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You read 12.57 volts between the Red & Red/Gray and 12.57 volts between the Red & Red/Black when the switch was OFF. Ok..
That indicates your ignition switch is OK.
Tell me more about this "injector noise" you hear kicking in? That is not right.
Next step for me would be to place an amp-meter in line with 1 of the battery leads to measure this mystery drain. You need to see what the value of this drain actually is. Then pull one fuse at a time until the drain goes away (if it goes away). You need to establish exactly how much drain you do have and measure it.
For the drain to kill a 19 amp/hour battery in 10 hours you would need better than a 2 amp drain. A drain of that size should be easy to find. You also can have regulator bleed back but you would not hear any "injector noise" from it. Is your regulator above room temp with bike being off for several hours? With a 2amp drain sinking into the regulator, it may feel warm to the touch. But it may also be sinking into the stator windings.
That indicates your ignition switch is OK.
Tell me more about this "injector noise" you hear kicking in? That is not right.
Next step for me would be to place an amp-meter in line with 1 of the battery leads to measure this mystery drain. You need to see what the value of this drain actually is. Then pull one fuse at a time until the drain goes away (if it goes away). You need to establish exactly how much drain you do have and measure it.
For the drain to kill a 19 amp/hour battery in 10 hours you would need better than a 2 amp drain. A drain of that size should be easy to find. You also can have regulator bleed back but you would not hear any "injector noise" from it. Is your regulator above room temp with bike being off for several hours? With a 2amp drain sinking into the regulator, it may feel warm to the touch. But it may also be sinking into the stator windings.
When I hook-up the positive cable and as soon as I touch the negative to the battery the injector pump runs like when you first turn the switch on to start it and wait till the light goes out....thats the sound its making. I'll go work on your other suggestions. Thank-you for be patient.
When I connect battery it sounds to be the pump in the tank just keeps running.
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Hoople
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And it just keeps running and does not turn off after say 5 seconds. Since your manual is on CD, would you be able to upload a page or two that would show the schematic of your key switch, fuses, main harness, ECM, fuel pump & system relay. It should be all on 1 page if the manual is genuine HD.
I would be able to save a lot of time.
OK..pretty sure I got the right ones here.
ok here is what I got so far. A friend of mine works on harleys on the side. We hooked the battery up to see if it would start..the pump was running constant ..I turned the key on ...no oil light ...no neutral light...but it started...I ran for a couple seconds shut it off....turned the key back on and now have oil light...and neutral light...seems like its ok now. He said he is sure its not the ecm since it started. I checked how the battery was charging while running and got 14.18 volts. Also the pump now shuts off and does not constanly run like before? He thought it might be the voltage reg, bad connection..or could it possibly be the system relay?
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