R_W_B
Senior Member
I just wasn't real impressed with the HD manual bent rod method of rear alignment, mainly because my axle stuck out quite a bit more on one side than the other, so I would have to eye it in on the less protrusion side. The manual calls for accuracy of within 1/32" so I came up with an easier and more exact method that keeps everything under control and at right angles.
You can buy these little magnetic squares at Harbor Freight for about $2. I got a package of 4 on sale for $4. All I did was take a good straight carpenter nail (a 12d or 16d size) and one of these magnets for each side of the bike.
I put a wide piece of masking tape on the swing arm from the alignment hole forward a few inches to prevent the magnet from scratching the paint.
I then inserted the pointed end of the nail into the alignment hole and placed the magnet on the swing arm and pulled it against the nail to snug it up to a 90 degree angle. It then holds itself and the nail so I can just let go of it.
I then put some masking tape over the ends of the axle, and punched the center hole out and with a small bullet level I scribed a vertical ink line thru the center of the axle ends.
Then I simply use a cheap little slide pocket rule I bought at H.F. for a buck to mark the distance of the shorter side. You can get your alignment dead on, very easily with these simple items. Instead of the slide pocket rule one could use the rod and plastic tie method or just a measuring tape, it's all easier with the magnet and nail as a reference.
You can buy these little magnetic squares at Harbor Freight for about $2. I got a package of 4 on sale for $4. All I did was take a good straight carpenter nail (a 12d or 16d size) and one of these magnets for each side of the bike.
I put a wide piece of masking tape on the swing arm from the alignment hole forward a few inches to prevent the magnet from scratching the paint.
I then inserted the pointed end of the nail into the alignment hole and placed the magnet on the swing arm and pulled it against the nail to snug it up to a 90 degree angle. It then holds itself and the nail so I can just let go of it.
I then put some masking tape over the ends of the axle, and punched the center hole out and with a small bullet level I scribed a vertical ink line thru the center of the axle ends.
Then I simply use a cheap little slide pocket rule I bought at H.F. for a buck to mark the distance of the shorter side. You can get your alignment dead on, very easily with these simple items. Instead of the slide pocket rule one could use the rod and plastic tie method or just a measuring tape, it's all easier with the magnet and nail as a reference.