FLHX 09 - Three Issues

[skcm2006]

History - Took the bike in for 10k maintenance - they adjusted the clutch, supposidly put more fluid in the brake reserviors, adjusted the tention on the drive belt, changed the spark plugs.

In short, I had to readjust the clutch after telling the tech the lever was not suppose to flop and that on the way home I could feel the clutch slipping, I found motor oil on the rear tire rim, and the reveviors were leaking. I changed the oil - full synthetic 20W50 for the engine, 75W-145 for the tranny and 60w oil for the primary.

Went on a 300 mile ride today and came across three issues

Issue 1: after 100 miles my wife and I noticed that the rear brake was pulsating at slow speeds - I have read here that it may be a warped rotor but I am not sure. Could this have been caused when the tech adjusted my rear tire for the belt tention and misaligned it?

Issue 2: after 200 miles and the engine well warmed, the enging felt like it was jumping/loping while I idled... it was very very rough... but it didn't do it all the time - what could be causing this?

Issue 3: Talking with a friend and he said the that engine may not be loping but the clutch slipping because of the 60W full synthetic in the primary ... Is 60W really that bad?

 

[TQuentin1]

1. Check the alignment yourself, although your bike may have the cam lobes on the axle. Also check the brake pads (get a flashlight and eyeball them). Put the bike on a lift and rotate the rear wheel to see if the rotor seem to be warped.

2. What else has been done to the engine?

3. I suggest a fit-for-purpose wet-clutch chaincase lubricant/coolant. Try HD Formula +, Spectro Primary or Redline primary

TQ

 

[fin_676]

On .3 perhaps the 60w is a wee bit thick for the clutch it may make it drag a wee bit however the full synthetic oil may have friction modifiers in it and that helps things glide over each other easily and that is not the most desirable quality for oil in the clutch
the clutch uses the thin film of oil on the plates to help create a suction effect if the oil is too thin or has friction modifiers less or no suction and clutch slippage if too thick too much suction and drag
So primary really need a fit for purpose oil but a dino 20w 50 should work ok

One other point is slightly worried that they filled the brake fluid reservoirs they should be full when new pads are fitted as the pads wear the level will go down as fluid is used to compensate for the wear of the pads when you go to replace the pads and push the piston back in then the fluid is pushed back into the reservoir if it has been filled as the pads have worn there will be too much fluid in the system and it will overflow, at best making a mess at worst stripping some paint

Brian

 

[brownfoxx1]

clean around the three drain plugs real good. is there oil seeping fron them?
then after you ride the bike recheck them. Just a thought. oil on the rear tire area has to come from somewhere. good luck

 

[dbmg]

My opinion is to have a very strong conversation with service manger and general manager and or owner. Its ridiculous that you agreed to pay all the money to get a improper service that made your bike a safety hazard to you and cause you concern for other possible damage. I would also be looking for some type of compensation like a full refund, then go home and based on the great advice here perform your own 10k service. I would bet that the did not even lube steering stem bearings....

Then never return to dealer and list dealer here: Dealers You Wouldn't Recommend. - Harley Davidson Community

 

[maine-e-axe]

The rear brake disc could have greasey finger prints on it and make the brake pulse.

 

[skcm2006]

1. Check the alignment yourself, although your bike may have the cam lobes on the axle. Also check the brake pads (get a flashlight and eyeball them). Put the bike on a lift and rotate the rear wheel to see if the rotor seem to be warped.

2. What else has been done to the engine?

3. I suggest a fit-for-purpose wet-clutch chaincase lubricant/coolant. Try HD Formula +, Spectro Primary or Redline primary

TQ

The engine is a 96 and it has a stage one with a SERT. It has not been dyno'd but it was programed


3. Roger on the primary - I am going to go and change that today then.... Makes sense....

 

[BUBBIE]

The engine is a 96 and it has a stage one with a SERT. It has not been dyno'd but it was programed


3. Roger on the primary - I am going to go and change that today then.... Makes sense....

********************
ALSO, the belt IS adjustable BUT the alignment is NOT...

Alignment is set to the bike using "alignment cams" that allow NO adjustment from side to side.. Like TQ1 said....

Use a Primary Oil that SAYS "Primary oil".. Simple.... (wet clutch approved)

The clutch adjustment should NOT be a problem IF Done Right... They didn't.....

The Idle more than likely is YOUR added unit Not the bike fault..

Rotors are EASILY checked using a Dial indicator and turning the wheel showing More than .004 run-out,,,,it is warped and should be replaced..

I had one of my front rotors warp and that is how it felt.. Out about .012

I'd be LOOKING for a better service dept. shop,,,, IF they don't do you right when you take it back.. Go to the Service MANAGER and get results...

signed....BUBBIE

 

[skcm2006]

Things I did to my bike today: Checked the front brake res. Low by 25%, rear reservoir –low by 50% (at least) Filled them up to the marks, changed my primary fluid from 60W synthetic to straight HD Primary and readjusted the clutch, verified that my tire was aligned using the method recommended in this thread. As far as I can tell and measure it is aligned Inspected the rear tire and seeing cupping which may be why it feels 'bumpy/surging" when I go around the corner. Took it out for a spin – pulsating is 90% gone, very very smooth clutch. My thoughts are that the primary oil was too heavy and the rear brake pulsated so much because it was so low on DOT4 and the rest is the rear tire that is getting cupped and needs to be replaced. I put the bike on the jack and I could't visually see where the rotor was warped ... but then again I a newbe at this.

IRT the service manager - he apologized for the "lackluster" maintenance and asked that we give them another try (this is the second time (EDIT) ). No discount, no hey let me cover the cost of you having to redo the work, just - sorry, pay us again and let's see if we can get it right. Needless to say I am done with their service department.

Now the bike is broken down to parade rest, cooling and I will detail it tonight .
Please read this...

A Friendly Reminder - Harley Davidson Community

 

[btsom]

The intermittent "loping idle" may be the normal high temperature mode cutting off the rear cylinder at idle. Check your owners manual for ETIMS or something close to that which explains it.