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For Porkchop - FXDI Ignition Switch Relocation

jmpancoast

jmpancoast

Active Member
Ignition switch relocated from neck to console on 06 SUper Glide FXDI:

Picture008.jpg


This was a relatively cheap mod. Got the switch from easternperformance.com for less than $25.00 shipped. Bought a couple other things I will mention as I go through the steps I took.

I don't know if the low fuel light still works or not. I have a digital speedo/tach which doesn't have a low fuel indicator.

First thing I had to work out was how to mount it. Since the stock fuel gauge mounting bracket already screwed to the console, I started thinking about how to use it. Here is a pic of what I came up with:

Picture007b.jpg


In the above pic, you can see the section I cut away to allow room for the wiring harness plug.

Next, the chrome top of the switch was smaller than the hole for the fuel gauge in the cosole. I bought the chrome fuel gauge bezel cover (74544-
04A) from Harley for $13.00. This filled up the difference between the hole and the switch knob. I disassembled the switch assembly to put the chrome bezel cover under the switch knob and on top of the switch body. To make room for the chrome bezel cover I had to file a "shelf" on the top of the switch assembly plastic body. I don't have a pic of this shelf, but here is a pic which will give you an idea of what I did grind to make the shelf.

Picture004a.jpg


Here is a pic of the chrome bezel cover fitted in the switch assembly:

Picture023-1.jpg


I pulled the harness and plug from the stock switch in the neck and soldered in extensions so the wiring to reach the new switch on the console.

Lastly, I bought the decal (13130-06) which goes around the fork lock cylinder on a Wide Glide and applied it around my stock switch. Now it is labeled to use as a fork lock only. This decal was $4.00 from Harley.

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Let me know if you have any questions. Hope you can understand what I have tried to explain here.

John
 
Thanks for the info, now i understand just how you did it. That is some very good enginering to be proud of. One more Q, does the factory switch have the same plug on it as the one you baught or will i need to get a plug?
 
porkchop said:
Thanks for the info, now i understand just how you did it. That is some very good enginering to be proud of. One more Q, does the factory switch have the same plug on it as the one you baught or will i need to get a plug?
Click to expand...

Same one
 
porkchop said:
Well I just got finished with my switch relocation but i did change it up so that i could keep my fuel gage in place. Let me know what you think!
Click to expand...

Man, looks great! Need more pics and some details how you did it so others who want to do it can get ideas from you.
 
It never even crossed my mind to take pics as i was doing this but its pretty strait forward though, only thing is there isnt realy any good way to make a mounting braket for it in this location because of the limited space below the fuel gage and drilling holes for screws just wouldnt look good at all so I used epoxy to hold it in place from turning side to side and a piece of rubber under the switch to help hold it up against the dash panel. I used a 2 inch hole saw to cut opening and found a thermostat housing o-ring that had a groov cut in it from the inside that was just the right size for the switch, all i had to do was turn the o-ring inside out and it fit perfectly. looks like it came that way from the factory. I spent a total of $28 on this and that includes the new switch. Thanks for the idea! Worked out great!
 
porkchop said:
I used epoxy to hold it in place from turning side to side and a piece of rubber under the switch to help hold it up against the dash panel.
Click to expand...

Can rain or washing get to the epoxy? Unless you have used some kind of marine grade epoxy, it won't last. Epoxy has a tendency to break down if exposed to the wet.
 
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