Handlebar replacement - Clutch not engaging

[Safehaven]

Hey everyone,

I've switched the handlebars on my 06' streetbob yesterday from fat boy handlebars to XL1200N bars and ran into a snag on my final check list.

The bar replacement went without any problems, throttle and idle cables are properly adjusted, but my clutch is not engaging fully. When I re-installed the clutch lever and tested to check if it would disengage the gear fully from the motor while standing (done when in 1st gear, squeezed the clutch lever, tried to roll the bike) I noticed the clutch plates were still biting down. Not fully but dragging.

Now my question:
Do I need to go through the complete clutch adjustment cycle (colapse adjustment cable, open primary, undo clutch lock nut, loosen and re-tighten adjuster bolt until light resistance + 1/4 turn, re-fit the clutch lock nut, adjust clutch cable, etc.) or can I skip the primary part and just re-adjust the clutch cable and be done with it. (about 1/3 rd of it's adjustment is used at the moment).

Thanks for the help,

 

[jmpancoast]

The clutch plates are going to stick some, enough where it will feel like they are not separating when you have the bike on gear, depress the clutch lever, and try to move the bike. Its normal.

Start her up, throw her in first and ride. The clutch will free up for ya.

This is not to say that your clutch basket doesn't need adjustment, just means it doesn't need it because of your bar/cable change.

 

[Safehaven]

Hey jmpancoast,

I was getting worried since before the change, I could: have her in gear when not running the engine, press down on the clutch, roll the bike. Without any problems.

Now this is not the case anymore, which leads me to believe I have an adjustment problem. I was indeed a bit amazed when I found this out as I did not make a big change to the hight, width of the bars and didn't mess around with the clutch adjustment.

I'll try what you are saying later but will make sure she can't go anywhere when try to throw her in 1st

Take care,

jmpancoast, the method you described worked but didn't solve all my woes..

When the engine is running and I'm shifting from neutral to 1st gear (clutch depressed, goes without saying I think..), I get an over the top first gear clunk, with the bike nudging forward as it shifts into gear. It never did this before swapping the bars. I've checked and adjusted the clutch cable and taken out any slack in there to try and engage the clutch a bit earlier and it helped somewhat, but not enough..

I am thinking it must be the lenght of the clutch cable, I came from ape hangers and moved to fat boy bars, which was a bit of a squeeze but still worked since the curve of the cable was do-able, now with the more straight bars the cable needs to make a rather sharp turn up and back down again.. No idea if this could be it but it seems very unlikely to me that the clutch pack would need adjustment as it worked fine about a week ago.

I'm going to check the clutch pack adjustment tomorrow just in case but need a new o-ring first, maybe a shorter clutch cable as well..

Any ideas are welcome before I go out and spend some hard earned $$.

Thanks,

 

[Hoople]

If you feel that the clutch lever change you now feel is due to the bars being changed, then only a cable adjustment is in order. Nothing you did would change the basket adjustment.

 

[Safehaven]

If you feel that the clutch lever change you now feel is due to the bars being changed, then only a cable adjustment is in order. Nothing you did would change the basket adjustment.

Thanks for the replies,

I'll change the clutch cable and write back with the outcome of the project!

Take care,

 

[rick1062]

The clutch basket adjustment couldn't have been altered by changing the handle bars. You will probably only have to adjust the cable at the frame down tube, inside the rubber boot. Make sure the cable is not bound up somewhere. It is of course possible the cable is too short for the new bars.

 

[Safehaven]

G`evening,

Just changed out the clutch cable and put in a new charge of spectro 6 speed trans oil (75w140). Aaaanyway.

I noticed that the first gear "clunk" was less than it used to be before the cable adjustment, but still not to the level it was as before I changed the bars and cables.. I`m starting to think I`m imagining things. Everything seems properly adjusted (only thing left to do is the clutch basket.. But I can`t see how this would be mal-adjusted..).

First time I can I`ll take her out for a test run and see if the behavior changes after the bike is up to propper running temp.

p.s. I sure found the tip of the shortened alan wrench a hoot while taking of the trans cover. No need to remove the bars at all Went perfectly.

Take care and goodnight,

 

[cdn-bigfoot]

I just changed my cable and found the same problem. Clutch felt like it wasn't engaged with transmission in gear and clutch pulled. After checking my adjustment 5 or 6 times I just trusted it was done right and started her up in neutral, pulled the clutch and dropped her into gear. Smooooth. No more ka-luunkk.
Feel the force.:worthy

 

[Safehaven]

Had some spare time yesterday so I went to work on the bike, changed all the fluids on the bike to spectro except for the engine which got Mobil1 Vtwin oil.

adjusted my clutch once again and checked the clutch plates were engaging properly when the clutch was operated while the primary cover was off, just for my peace of mind.

Fired her up once I double checked the work, let her idle for about a minute while gearing up and shifted in gear.

Except for a faint clunk there wasn't anything to be heard anymore. Went for a short ride out (about 50km, or something or 35 mi (guess)) and I could swear the shifing got progressively smoother as I went on.

All in all, problem solved.. Love the new bars as well!

I'd recomend the Stock bars of an XR1200 for the streetbob, no more numbness in the fingers after 50km.

Thanks for all your replies.
K

 

[rick1062]

Glad it is all good. Now it is time to enjoy the ride.