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Has anybody had a problem with crank on 2010 fxdc

Heck52

Heck52

Member
Just wondering if anybody has had a crankshaft runout problem on a 2010. I have just past 13000 before I put it away for the winter? I have a trailer I have pulled a few times this last summer and have had no problems at all. I never really get hard on it and have not had a miss shift. At 20000 I'm going to open the cam plate and check the runout. Also whats the life on cam tensioners?
 
From what I have heard, they tightened up the assembly tolerances on the cranks after the second or so year of the 96's to slow down this problem. They are still pressed together and the MOCO had increased their outlook on what is allowed as run out tolerances to cut down on the repairs they were responsible for.

Please post what you find as run out when you check it.

As far as the tensioners, you have the hydraulic tensioners and there isn't much info available on them yet because the first year they were used was 07. Only time will tell as to the longevity of these units.

You'll find many posts on the run out issue in the self help area.
 
One of the reasons I ask is I was watching a youtube video on changing out a cam set by Jp cycle. The bike only had 1800 miles on it, I think it was a street Glide not sure what year but newer. It had 007 runout. Makes me alittle nervous. But at 13000 miles I have no vibrations or noises from cam housing. We shall see.
 
I bought my 07 dyna new in Apr 07, had my cam chain tensioners checked at 72,000 kilometers, they were fine, still had 75% left, but replaced because one tensioner was chipped (could have been that way from factory). Have 131,000 kms on it now with no problems (knock on wood)
 
These bikes are stroked and that is hard enough on a crank.. EVO's were 4 1/4" stroke then the 88" TC's were shortened to a 4.0" stroke and Now the newer 96"+ TC's are 4.375 (4 3/8").

The crank run-out is a problem as some are OFF at the get-go.

(TOUNGE IN CHEEK) :newsmile042: HD solved this problem of the crank vibration by moving out the specks of .004 as Bad to .012 and NOW they should work better...:newsmile100:

Cranks that out even 3-4 thousands present a problem in that they are hard on the cam-support outer crank bearing as that is holding crank in place and once it wears a BIG amount of the material away then LOOSENED, attacks the gerotors/pump housing in the oil pump... Damage thru-out the engine is the results here. low oil pressure then NONE...

If you have a Smoooooth running engine, I would not be concerned about crank-runout. IF a lot of vibration now,, THEN I would be concerned. It probably will only get worse...

It is just a fact that THESE High Torque motors are Hard on cranks and HD Could have used a much better design for the ones they used in our STROKED TC's now. (at least put them together trued)

Just truing and welding is a problem solver here. $$ though
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The tensioner system is a Good One.

I looked at mine (09) at 25,000 mi. and did replace the outside one as it had a minor chip in the surface But Really was very good shape and would of lasted the life of the motor easily. The back one showed No Wear at all...

Hope this sheds some Light.:newsmile03:

signed....BUBBIE
 
I take it that there is enough of the crankshaft sticking out to get a dail indicator on it? This would be great, then I will not need to pop for S&S pushrods yet. I'm thinking at 20,000 to check the cam chain tensioners and runout and at 25 or 30K change the lifters and cam bearing if needed. I,m pulling a trailer once in awhile so the clutch may need some looking after.
 
I take the last back. I was thinking that you did not take the cam support plate off. Meaning the open side of the cam housing. Never thought about the primary side.
 
Heck52 said:
I take it that there is enough of the crankshaft sticking out to get a dail indicator on it? This would be great, then I will not need to pop for S&S pushrods yet. I'm thinking at 20,000 to check the cam chain tensioners and runout and at 25 or 30K change the lifters and cam bearing if needed. I,m pulling a trailer once in awhile so the clutch may need some looking after.
Click to expand...
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I have found the stock clutch in the TC models to hold up just fine along with the Hydraulic tensioner system. No need to look UNLES you suspect a problem with them. Low miles now and I would not worry about them.

On the Crank run-out;
You will find that IF you remove the cam plate FIRST regardless of IF you can take the crank reading with the cam plate in place, a FALSE reading may be there.

The cam plate Bushing HOLDS a Bad aligned crank in a position of "STABLE" until it gets worn out... IF The Crank Is Bad To Start With, leaving the cam plate in and taking a run-out will Not give a accurate reading...

Some newer engines (07 and up) with a lot of Crank Run-Out, may only vibrate a Little UNTIL the cam plate busing wears out enough and only THEN allows the crank to FULLY Move. This usually will Increase vibration and it takes out the oil pump.

Nice isn't it. Where is the quality control of JUST having a Crank that is with-in specks like .0015 not the LARGER number that HD moved to and thinks all is well... What a JOKE :(

signed....BUBBIE
 
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