How do I keep the pushrods from falling in the cam case?
- Thread starter colnajoe
- Start date
If you are talking about the lifters there are a couple of methods. You can buy a magnetic tool that will hold them up or you can simply remove the lifter covers and take them out. If you remove them make sure you label them so they go back in the same hole they came out of. Also note the direction of the oil hole which is to the front.
As HDDon said you can simply cut the old pushrods out if you are installing adjustables. This will have to be done prior to removing the cam support plate.
As HDDon said you can simply cut the old pushrods out if you are installing adjustables. This will have to be done prior to removing the cam support plate.
Redfish-Joe
Senior Member
SE lifter magnets. Well worth the $20.00
Screamin' Eagle Magnetic Lifter Holders | Genuine Motor Accessories | Harley-Davidson USA
colnajoe
Member
Well, I screwed up and pulled the support plate BEFORE I cut the pushrods....and the lifters went into the cam chest....what now? I did get adjustable pushrods, but I dont know if I had the cam and lifters in the right position before I pulled them out
Redfish-Joe
Senior Member
Back up. Get a manual and watch this video.
3. Harley cam chain tensioner replacement on a Twin Cam - YouTube
3. Harley cam chain tensioner replacement on a Twin Cam - YouTube
colnajoe
Member
I'm done for the night. I do have a service manual, just got messed up on the order of things! It's all good, got the old pushrods out, got the new front tensioner in, but I've hit another roadblock.....In order to remover the rear tensioner, I have to take both cam shafts out of the face plate. One side came out, the the other the manual says I have to have a camshaft/camshaft bearing remover/installer (HD-43644), with warnings that if I do it wrong, big damage! So, is there any way around the tool, so I can get the camshaft out of the support plate, so I can replace that tensioner and finish? I'm so close, SO CLOSE!!!
BUBBIE, I did get the adjustable SE pushrods, and that cam repair kit came with a ton of things I didnt need. All O rings, gaskets, bearings (8 of them), clips, and some other things I dont know....all in all, I spent 109 for the kit, and used maybe 40 bucks of it. Its all seal wrapped, with part numbers so I'm sure I can return the stuff I dont open.
BUBBIE, I did get the adjustable SE pushrods, and that cam repair kit came with a ton of things I didnt need. All O rings, gaskets, bearings (8 of them), clips, and some other things I dont know....all in all, I spent 109 for the kit, and used maybe 40 bucks of it. Its all seal wrapped, with part numbers so I'm sure I can return the stuff I dont open.
I doesn't matter. As long as you line-up all the alignment marks when installing, that is what sets the timing.
TQ
The cam service kit you are talking about includes everything needed if you are taking the pushrods out of the top. If you are installing adjustables the kit is still a wise investment. The only thing you wont need is the rocker gaskets and new breather assembly. All of those o-rings will be used when you install the new pushrods. The only part of the kit that I dont recommend you use is the HD inner cam bearings. The kit comes with inner cam bearings for both the 88 and 96 engines. I would recommend discarding both of these and installing torrington bearings instead. The OEM HD bearings are very low quality in my opinion.
As far as removing the cam out of the plate to install the tensioner I would simply taking the support plate with new bearings to a trusted indy mechanic with the proper tools and letting him do that part. It can be done on your own but without the cam removal tool it's a pain to do properly. For me it was worth a few bucks to let somebody else handle that part of the process.
It is important to get the lifters back where they came from IE; front exhaust, rear exhaust etc. in the same orientation, each one wears differently. If you cannot then you should probably use new lifters.
You should also check the tappet blocks for tolerance, even 1/2 of a thousand over spec can cause a lifter to float.