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Limp Mode Code 2176?

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leo13

Member
I have done search, self diagnostices, and gwizit.com and can't find this code. When I checked my codes I got:

P1511
P2135
P2176
PN 34462-086

I know the first two relate to the TCA pin issue. I went to the local dealer to get a price check, and it is $92 labor plus parts. However, they couldn't check P2176 due to computer issues. They also recommended I clean and use dielectric before I have the pins replaced.

Since I am doing a Mexico (Rocky Point) trip 20 Oct., I will do the home fix, and if I don't throw any codes before I go, I'll assume I'm ok.

Does anyone know what P2176 is? Am I taking a big risk to travel without having correcting what is causing it?

BTW it is a 2008 FLHTC with factory Stage 1 (replaced Screaming Eagle pipes with SuperTrapp disc adjustable).

THX in advance.
 
Thank You!

P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned

I assume that is part of the "smart bike" function.

I'll check codes again today and see if it is still there.
 
tyre said:
Wish I could tell you what it meant. :(
Click to expand...

This pdf may help a little. A bind in the throttle shaft could do it. The drive motor not having enough torque to overcome a bind etc...

Both sides of the flowchart lead you to $$:)
 

Attachments

  • P2176.pdf
    66.8 KB · Views: 82
leo13 said:
They also recommended I clean and use dielectric before I have the pins replaced.
Click to expand...

Take a look at the color picture in this PDF. You will see the TCA module and the 6 pin connector. The drive motor is hooked to pins 2 & 3 of 211A.
The drive motor is mechanically connected to the throttle butterfly. Position feedback control is performed with the two summing pots (pins 6,5,4,1).

I don't have throttle by wire but I believe connector 211B is the one you want to change the pins on. You have a good chance fixing the problem by improving that connector. I would also flush the throttle shaft and check it for binds.
Personally, I would use Nyogel over die-electric grease. Nyogel was specifically designed for electrical contact fretting. It's incredible stuff.
 

Attachments

  • TBW_TT418.pdf
    62.8 KB · Views: 117
I checked the bike after I cleared the codes and rode it, no new codes were generated.

I did the contact cleaner and dielectric grease fix and will ride it for a couple of weeks and if it stays good, I'll go ahead with the trip without replacing the pins.

I wonder how many people have had problems after just the "temporary fix" and how long it took?
 
I put liquid electric tape on the wires where they enter the plug ever since I got the bike only to blend the colors . You could see the wire colors .
I installed a smaller air cover ..this may have helped keep water out . My bike sits out all time .
 
Had this issue on my 2008 Street Glide. Put some new handlebars on by my indy shop buds before my ride to Reno this September. After getting home and washing the 1,800 miles of bugs off the problem started with the same DTC Codes.

I replaced the throttle twist grip because of what I had read about the connector inside the handlebar and thought this might be the culprit. After changing it - no joy!

Next I tried the contact cleaner and exercising the connectors (211A/211B) on the TCA before snapping it all the way forward and bam! codes are gone.

So as part of PM from here on out I will be hitting the TCA connector with some contact cleaner to avoid this annoyance.

Cheers Y'all!
 
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