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Oil Coolers and Reusable Oil Filter/Coolers together.

GzaGlyde

New Member
I've read about those with Big Sky & Ultra Cool oil coolers, and I've read where some folks use the reusable stainless steel oil filter/coolers;

Does anyone have any experience running both an oil cooler and a reusable filter? I'm getting ready to have an Ultra Cool FL installed and I wanna add something like a K&P or FLO OIL reusable filter. Will be running synthetic (Amsoil) 20W50 oil after it's all said and done.
 
So I'm on the right track -

Thanks for the timely response. I actually saw the Pure Power using a link posted in a thread here. I just purchased a FLO OIL from eBay a little while ago (saving $80) but was really liking the PurPwr look and design.
I've pulled over twice already on the warmer days because my gauge was flashing 230 degrees on short local runs (w/i 50mi). Think I'll be alright. Might even pick up a second one as bench stock.

thnx again
 
So I'm on the right track -

Thanks for the timely response. I actually saw the Pure Power using a link posted in a thread here. I just purchased a FLO OIL from eBay a little while ago (saving $80) but was really liking the PurPwr look and design.
I've pulled over twice already on the warmer days because my gauge was flashing 230 degrees on short local runs (w/i 50mi). Think I'll be alright. Might even pick up a second one as bench stock.

thnx again

Got 1 question about this post, why would you pull over at 230 degrees? I don't have a temp gauge on my Ultra , but my FXDX would run 220 degrees when it was 70 degrees outside running 65 down the highway. 230 never made me think twice. Am I wrong guys ?
 
Maybe was new bike and just wanted to be safe.
Dino oil, keep a eye on it.
Synthetic oil, run it.

mlrc10, Very sorry for your loss, and God Bless you as you ride.
wilks3
:USA
 
I agree 100% with you Tbones. There's is no way any filter as small as the factory HD is going to filter down to 5 microns and not plug up, way before 3000 miles let alone 5000 miles. Its gonna by-pass, period.
A micron is .00039 of a inch. The K&P filters down to a absolute 35 microns, nothing bigger than 35 microns is going thur filter. What is 35 microns? .001365, just a tad over one thousandths of a inch. You can't tell me thats gonna hurt anything in a HD engine, I just won't buy it.
wilks3
 
I use filters in my job but not for filtering oil. Definitely a topic I will look into (oil filtering) but in general here are a few things to think about:

1.) Perhaps they tested withing the operation parameters of a motorcycle (mainly temp), but stainless steel expand/contracts quite a bit with temperature. Add to that a very fine mesh (i.e. tremendous surface area) and some interesting things can happen. Since a weave is not "sintered" (microscopically "welded/melted" where the strands touch, you should get a significant change in the pore size of the mesh due to the expansion and contraction from heat.

2.) Pore testing is almost always done with a test solution that has a variety of known, spherical particles (there is always a range of sizes within a "standard" due to normal variation, though). So when you say 35 micron, for example, you are talking about a ball, that is 35 microns in average diameter. But think about a pea versus a stick of spaghetti as and example. The spaghetti can fit through a much smaller opening and it is a much bigger particle.

3.) "Blowing through a filter" (paper vs. ss mesh) and the differences may be simply due to surface tension. Most oil filters paper absorb and adsorb oil to the structure. SS does not.

I am not saying that the SS filters won't work. Just bringing up some things to think about. If you really want to filter out a certain size particle, you need a "torturous path". Picture an air stone for an aquarium but with a changing density as you move across, from the outside of the stone to the inside. Again, I seriously doubt that somthing like this would be needed to keep an engine in fine shape, given all the other variables going on.

To me, (and I could definitely be wrong) if you have particles of metal that could cause problems by being so large as to plug up some orifice or bearing, somthing else is wrong. You filter is removing it but something is still wearing.
 
Just something for you to consider... Even tho the paper throw away filters say they filter down to 5 microns, for how long do they do this? Have you ever taken a paper filter apart and look at it? Not all throw aways are made the same... Some filter thru the media while others flow over the media... The pleats inside are different from filter to filter, some are deeper than others, some don't have as many... None of them have magnets...

What people don't realize is, a lot of these paper throw away filters plug up and when that happens, they build up pressure... All filters have a bypass valve... Most are set to open between 6 and 8 psi... Once a filter is plugged, the bypass valve opens so in effect, the oil is no longer being filtered so where is your 5 micron then? I think people put too much stock into this micron size...

Here's a lil more about what I'm talking about from K&P Engineering;

We use ASTMF316 testing procedures which eliminate many of the user variables found in the SAE procedures. Basically, the filter media is pressurized from one side, and when the media starts passing particles, that is the micron rating. We sent filter media from several common brands of paper filters to the lab to be run through the ASTM test. We sent the media to the lab with no names, just numbers for identification so they wouldn't have any idea what brand filter they were testing. The results for the paper filters ranged from 48 microns for the best filter to over 300 microns for the worst filter. Our tests were right in line with other testing results we have researched that have paper media filters passing particles anywhere between 50 and 90 microns. What does this mean? Paper filters are rated on averages, percentages of efficiency (also known as beta ratios) and multiple passes, so a 10 micron rated paper filter (as advertised on the packaging) may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. The bottom line is we meet or exceed the filtration performance of OEM filters, eliminating any warranty issues.

I run the Pure Performance filter on my bikes which are pretty much the same as the K&P filters with the same micron rating... I can attest that the PP filter saved my topend... I like the reusable filters, they are ez to install and clean... And, I'm not adding to the garbage dump... Any guess as to how many oil filters are thrown into our land disposal sites every year? Just something to think bout :)...

I could not agree with you more, but all things considering. If you have an extended warranty on your ride, and lets say something happens to the engine. Something MAJOR. When you take it to the dealer to have it looked at. I'll bet you anything that the new oil filter will be the root cause to the problem, and That extended warranty will not cover that filter.

That is why I use the HD filter. I don't want to give MOCO any excuse or any reason.......if you know what I mean. How much does a new engine cost these days. I have the extended warranty. I can't afford a new engine.
 
Thanks anyway - I bought one online during the holidays and got a pretty good break on one ($337 on sale). Appreciate ya'

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You're not wrong but this was before my 1000 mile service. Didn't wanna take any chances. My dealer said the same thing but I actually do run synthetic now. My service guy also told me the [digi] gauges are a little more sensitive also; he didn't say ignore them but not to be so ancy over them.

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TBones, thanks for the information in response to my question and some other helpful responses inquiries in this forum.
 
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