Oil Pressure/valve Train Noise

[porkchop]

Howdy follks, Ive got a 06 dyna and have read on another thread about using a oil pressure spring from Baisly performance to raise the pressure and that will quiet down the valve train but after more reserch i found out that the 2006 dyna has the new roller type cam chains with hydraulic chain tensioners, I am wandering if the higher oil pressure will cause more wear on the tensioners. Any help on this would be great THANKS!

 

[HDFXST7]

I Think You'll Be Ok With Swapping Out The Spring...the 06 Dynas Went Through An Overhaul And Should Run Better And Last Longer Than The Older Models. If You Really Want To Make The Bike Run Better And Be Headache Free Go With Gear Cams......i Was At Daytona And Saw A Buddy Of Mine Who Works For S&s Install A Complete Gear Cam With Highvolume Oil Pump And New Cam Plate, And When It Was Done.....the Dyno Numbers Were A Huge Difference Compair To Stock.

 

[NELS]

Howdy follks, Ive got a 06 dyna and have read on another thread about using a oil pressure spring from Baisly performance to raise the pressure and that will quiet down the valve train but after more reserch i found out that the 2006 dyna has the new roller type cam chains with hydraulic chain tensioners, I am wandering if the higher oil pressure will cause more wear on the tensioners. Any help on this would be great THANKS!

I have an '08 FXDC and had a lot of lifter noise after climbing a long grade and it would go away after leveling off. The Dealer told me it was the sidestand rubber.. I replaced the oil pressure spring with one from Baisley which increased the pressure about 3lbs. Problem Solved and "YES" the oil was full when it happened.If yours is lifter noise and not valve train noise , replace the spring.

 

[porkchop]

Thanks for the info, the valve train noise I am hearing is coming from the rocker boxes but it only does it around 2300 to 2500 RPM only, if I speed up or slow down from that area it seems to go away,could be nothing but just wondering about it.

 

[porkchop]

Thanks, But i was interested to know about the tensioners, it seems that if the oil pressure goes up that in turn would apply more pressure to the hyd tensioner, but would this cause it to wearout faster or is it not enough to be concerned about,ihave allways liked higher oil pressure but have never had hyd chain tensioners before.

 

[TQuentin1]

Thanks, But i was interested to know about the tensioners, it seems that if the oil pressure goes up that in turn would apply more pressure to the hyd tensioner, but would this cause it to wearout faster or is it not enough to be concerned about,ihave allways liked higher oil pressure but have never had hyd chain tensioners before.

Don't think you will have the wear problem with the hydraulic tensioners that we all do with the old spring loaded type. A little more oil pressure is probably a good thing with your tensioners to make sure you keep the chain nice and tight.

The added pressure should quiet down the rest of the engine. Trust you are using a premium quality synthetic oil in the engine, and synthetic gear lube in the tranny.

TQ

 

[porkchop]

Yes I have been using amsoil but going to switch to M1, its much easier to get. one more Question, when installing the spring is there a special tool to drive out the roll pin to get the spring out?

Well it sounds like it will be ok so ill go ahead and order the spring, thanks for all the help.

 

[TQuentin1]

Yes I have been using amsoil but going to switch to M1, its much easier to get. one more Question, when installing the spring is there a special tool to drive out the roll pin to get the spring out?

Well it sounds like it will be ok so ill go ahead and order the spring, thanks for all the help.

A roll pin punch would be ideal, but if you don't have one, use a nail that just fits in the hole diameter, and file the point off so it is flat. The roll pin is just held in the hole with the slight spring action of the pin. Will come out with just light tapping.

TQ

 

[porkchop]

A roll pin punch would be ideal, but if you don't have one, use a nail that just fits in the hole diameter, and file the point off so it is flat. The roll pin is just held in the hole with the slight spring action of the pin. Will come out with just light tapping.

TQ

Sounds easy enough. Thanks for all the info, This site is the best thing i have found for getting straight answers that the guys at the dealer tend to lie about or dont know.

 

[porkchop]

You should be able to get the spring out without removing the cam plate, if you have to remove the cam plate and oil pump make sure you get the paqrts for the oil pump in the correct order otherwise it is easy to wind up with no oil pressure. If you get the roll pin started out sometimes a small vice grips can assist in pulling it out. when replacing the spring an appropriate sized small dowell with a groove cut in for the pin to pass through makes it easy to hold the spring + or shims in place while driving the pin back in. Don't worry about the added oil pressure hurting the tensioners, the japanese and europeans have been using hydraulic tensioners for decades in their motors with no problems. reed

Is there a shim or something between the spring and roll pin or does the spring rest up against the pin?