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Primary question

C

Curveball

Banned
Finally I have enough time to work on my bikes myself.

I'm changing primary oil on a 2002 lowrider. Gonna adjust clutch and chain tension also.
I looks like the foot shifter goes through the inspection plate on the primary housing.
What seals that shifter shaft.? O ring, shaft seal ????
 
It's not necessary to disturb the inspection cover, just use the derby cover to add oil and see where the level is.

As far as what seals that tube where the shaft goes through the primary, there's a seal between the inner and outer primary so the cover has to come off to replace it if it is leaking.
 
glider said:
It's not necessary to disturb the inspection cover, just use the derby cover to add oil and see where the level is.

As far as what seals that tube where the shaft goes through the primary, there's a seal between the inner and outer primary so the cover has to come off to replace it if it is leaking.
Click to expand...

What about chain tensioner? Isn't that behind the inspection plate ?
 
glider said:
Yes it is and you would have to open it up to check that out.
Click to expand...
******************************************
When in there, it is a 9/16 ny-lock nut,,, Straight In ,,,,that you "loosen to adjust the chain"... Careful loosening the nut too far as IT is easy to loose the OLD adjustment you have already... IF you keep the pressure on the adjuster until it can move up a little for the new adjustment much easier... I use a "Long Socket" when making this adjustment, pressure against it to helpHole and LIFT the adjuster up to the Next file spot IF adjustment is NEEDED........

Nut Only Loosens a little, not OFF, It will take at least 3 small turns out with the ratchet so the File teeth will go-out far enough so the next point of adjustment is available.
Keeping pressure on the Long Socket will help While moving UP when Loose enough to slide it up...

Plugs out and turn tire Forward in 5 gear, (bike jacked off the floor) to see IF the New adjustment Is NOT too tight at any given spot..Important as too tight Will cause bearings and shoe wear.

Also if adjuster drops Down inside (fully un adjusted loose position), it is harder to get it back up. You will see (hope not) limited room to work..

The adjuster is like two straight across Files fitting oppositely into each other to hold after tightened by nut together..

Back together and checked.... Don't tighten the nut Excessively as it can strip the threads and then the primary cover needs to come off to replace the bolt.
I treat this nut/bolt as a grade #5 and tighten tight but no more.

The shifter shaft is kept from leaking by a little "O" ring on that shaft.. I usually have no problem on reuse...Check it for damage tho' replace if chaffed.

I have Always had best Luck putting door back together DRY, NO OIL at all in or on the area of the door/gasket..... Using the same gasket several time BUT careful to not reverse it or damage it when coming apart..
Different lengths on the 4 bolts that go thru the door also mental note them.

Hope this helps

Just My Way

signed....BUBBIE
 
BUBBIE said:
******************************************
When in there, it is a 9/16 ny-lock nut,,, Straight In ,,,,that you "loosen to adjust the chain"... Careful loosening the nut too far as IT is easy to loose the OLD adjustment you have already... IF you keep the pressure on the adjuster until it can move up a little for the new adjustment much easier... I use a "Long Socket" when making this adjustment, pressure against it to helpHole and LIFT the adjuster up to the Next file spot IF adjustment is NEEDED........

Nut Only Loosens a little, not OFF, It will take at least 3 small turns out with the ratchet so the File teeth will go-out far enough so the next point of adjustment is available.
Keeping pressure on the Long Socket will help While moving UP when Loose enough to slide it up...

Plugs out and turn tire Forward in 5 gear, (bike jacked off the floor) to see IF the New adjustment Is NOT too tight at any given spot..Important as too tight Will cause bearings and shoe wear.

Also if adjuster drops Down inside (fully un adjusted loose position), it is harder to get it back up. You will see (hope not) limited room to work..

The adjuster is like two straight across Files fitting oppositely into each other to hold after tightened by nut together..

Back together and checked.... Don't tighten the nut Excessively as it can strip the threads and then the primary cover needs to come off to replace the bolt.
I treat this nut/bolt as a grade #5 and tighten tight but no more.

The shifter shaft is kept from leaking by a little "O" ring on that shaft.. I usually have no problem on reuse...Check it for damage tho' replace if chaffed.

I have Always had best Luck putting door back together DRY, NO OIL at all in or on the area of the door/gasket..... Using the same gasket several time BUT careful to not reverse it or damage it when coming apart..
Different lengths on the 4 bolts that go thru the door also mental note them.

Hope this helps

Just My Way

signed....BUBBIE
Click to expand...

Thanks Bubbie,

Just drained and removed covers, answered my own question when I saw the O ring on the shaft..
Great info on the rest...Thanks again.
 
I had some slight weeping on my Dyna's shift shaft even from new. I fixed it by using the old oring outside of the new oring. There's not a groove for it, but a tiny screwdriver gets it stuffed in pretty easily.
 
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