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Some help on maintenance - Thanks!

markfsanderson

markfsanderson

Active Member
Hello,
It took me a couple of weeks, off and on to go through my 1000 mile maintenance procedure on my 2011 Super Glide Custom. Busy at work, not ever enough time to be on or around the bike . . . I've learned a lot about the motorcycle and managed to save some dollars. Even when adding in the cost of tools, a new motor cycle jack from sears (The cheap red one, I just roll bike up on to some 2x8 pine boards and jack it up with those H-D bumpers installed) - I just about broke even. The next one @ 5K will be the real money saver! So here are a couple of questions that I'd love to get answers to:

  1. How do I tighten the rear brake pad pin? I can't event figure out what kind of socket to buy for this thing. Its not like any other fastener that I"ve seen on the bike.
  2. How do I tighten the rear brake master cylinder mount nut? It seems like a combination of the brake line going through the center of the unit and the way its mounted prevents a 'normal' approach to tightening it.
  3. What is GP40 Brake Grease? Can I use any moly brake grease? Should I put it on both the brake/clutch handle pins and the rear pins on both front and back brakes?
  4. Where can I purchase a spoke wrench/torque wrench from? It appears that H-D doesn't sell the one mentioned in the manual. Also, I have a couple of spokes on both front and rear wheels and their 'partners' 180 degrees across that don't sing 'ting' or 'tong' when struck, but aren't dead or loose either. They seem to have a much lower frequency ring to them - but aren't dead. Show I pay attention to these? If so, how?
  5. The recommended minimum torque for both front and rear brake master cylinder cover is 6 inch/pounds. My smaller torque wrench bottoms out at around 16 or so. I've seen gunsmith torque wrenches that start around 10 inch/pounds but nothing smaller. I just snugged the screws and checked for leaks . . . I don't have much of a 'feel' for mechanics, and I'd like to have a torque wrench for all of my fasteners if possible. Any ideas on this one?
  6. I put in synthetics in all 3 holes, mobile one for the engine, spectrum chaincase, redline transmission and a K&N oil filter. . . everything seems to be working very well. However, while riding at between 20 and 30 MPH w/the engine at idle and the clutch pulled in I hear a noise that I never heard before. Its a soft, low frequence hum that I cannot change by applying either brakes or clutch. If open the throttle I can't hear it any more. My extremely wild guess is that its the tires (they are properly inflated) and that I never heard it before because my bike is quieter since the synthetics. Does this sound plausable?
I'm just about out of 'tool collection' mode, waiting on my purchase of the secondary belt adjustment gauge. I checked the belt by attempting to rotate it by hand - I didn't get very far. It appears to be fairly tight. I just have a couple more items left to do other the two above fasteners I mentioned. Graphite lube on the throttle, sewing machine oil in the cables (harley lube?), and brake grease on the clutch/brake handle pins . . . I might be missing something or be wrong about a detail . . . I have to check my check list!

Any help or advice would be much appreciated . . . . Thanks!

Mark:newsmile026:
 
markfsanderson said:
Hello,
It took me a couple of weeks, off and on to go through my 1000 mile maintenance procedure on my 2011 Super Glide Custom. Busy at work, not ever enough time to be on or around the bike . . . I've learned a lot about the motorcycle and managed to save some dollars. Even when adding in the cost of tools, a new motor cycle jack from sears (The cheap red one, I just roll bike up on to some 2x8 pine boards and jack it up with those H-D bumpers installed) - I just about broke even. The next one @ 5K will be the real money saver! So here are a couple of questions that I'd love to get answers to:

  1. How do I tighten the rear brake pad pin? I can't event figure out what kind of socket to buy for this thing. Its not like any other fastener that I"ve seen on the bike.

    This is a 1/4" 12-point socket.

  2. How do I tighten the rear brake master cylinder mount nut? It seems like a combination of the brake line going through the center of the unit and the way its mounted prevents a 'normal' approach to tightening it.

    Should be able to get a box end on it. If not, you will have to take off the line and use a socket. Then you will have to bleed it.

  3. What is GP40 Brake Grease? Can I use any moly brake grease? Should I put it on both the brake/clutch handle pins and the rear pins on both front and back brakes?

    Yes to both.

  4. Where can I purchase a spoke wrench/torque wrench from? It appears that H-D doesn't sell the one mentioned in the manual. Also, I have a couple of spokes on both front and rear wheels and their 'partners' 180 degrees across that don't sing 'ting' or 'tong' when struck, but aren't dead or loose either. They seem to have a much lower frequency ring to them - but aren't dead. Show I pay attention to these? If so, how?

    Not sure about where to get one. But when you do, try to get them all sounding the same.

  5. The recommended minimum torque for both front and rear brake master cylinder cover is 6 inch/pounds. My smaller torque wrench bottoms out at around 16 or so. I've seen gunsmith torque wrenches that start around 10 inch/pounds but nothing smaller. I just snugged the screws and checked for leaks . . . I don't have much of a 'feel' for mechanics, and I'd like to have a torque wrench for all of my fasteners if possible. Any ideas on this one?

    Just make it snug by hand. There is plenty of gasket material, and all you need to do is compress it a little to seal.

  6. I put in synthetics in all 3 holes, mobile one for the engine, spectrum chaincase, redline transmission and a K&N oil filter. . . everything seems to be working very well. However, while riding at between 20 and 30 MPH w/the engine at idle and the clutch pulled in I hear a noise that I never heard before. Its a soft, low frequence hum that I cannot change by applying either brakes or clutch. If open the throttle I can't hear it any more. My extremely wild guess is that its the tires (they are properly inflated) and that I never heard it before because my bike is quieter since the synthetics. Does this sound plausable?

    Not sure. But if it is the tires, there should be some change in frequency as the bike slows or speeds up.


I'm just about out of 'tool collection' mode, waiting on my purchase of the secondary belt adjustment gauge. I checked the belt by attempting to rotate it by hand - I didn't get very far. It appears to be fairly tight.

I would err on the side of a little loose rather than too tight.


I just have a couple more items left to do other the two above fasteners I mentioned. Graphite lube on the throttle, sewing machine oil in the cables (harley lube?), and brake grease on the clutch/brake handle pins . . . I might be missing something or be wrong about a detail . . . I have to check my check list!

Any help or advice would be much appreciated . . . . Thanks!

Mark:newsmile026:
Click to expand...

Mark,

I am responding to your questions above on those I have comments on.

TQ
 
TQuentin1 said:
Mark,

I am responding to your questions above on those I have comments on.

TQ
Click to expand...

Thanks TQ - I appreciate it - I've learned a lot from you and others here! Hmm, the brake mounting nut is an odd bird. The worst case scenario, if I were to do my critical fastener maintenance religiously, is that I would have to bleed the rear brakes at each maintenance interval . . . The brake line comes out of the center of a threaded steel rod the that the mounting nut fits to. I'm having a tough time imagining a wrench or a socket that can fit this thing without removing the brake line . . . not fun!:small3d031:

Thanks - Mark!:newsmile026:
 
markfsanderson said:
Thanks TQ - I appreciate it - I've learned a lot from you and others here! Hmm, the brake mounting nut is an odd bird. The worst case scenario, if I were to do my critical fastener maintenance religiously, is that I would have to bleed the rear brakes at each maintenance interval . . . The brake line comes out of the center of a threaded steel rod the that the mounting nut fits to. I'm having a tough time imagining a wrench or a socket that can fit this thing without removing the brake line . . . not fun!:small3d031:

Thanks - Mark!:newsmile026:
Click to expand...

Would a "flair nut wrench" not work?
 
Doubt you need to mess with it. But if you can get a box end on it even cocked in at an angle and just make sure the nut doesn't move as well as you can turn it with the wrench like that, then I would consider it good to go. Now this is assuming you have not had it off, or if so, that you torqued it per spec when remounting BEFORE the brake line was attached.

On the belt, I just adjust the rear out enough so I can move the belt up and down about 1/2-3/4" with a moderate amount of force holding the belt between my thumb and index finger. Like I said above, better a bit loose than too tight.

TQ
 
In addition to TQ's spot on advice, I'll just add. Don't worry about the master cylinder mount nut. I looked at Ronnie's HD parts list and it seems a lot like my '92 Dyna mount, which hasn't budged in 20 years.
There are so many different gauge spoke wrenches, I can't suggest where to get one. I use an adjustable (crescent) wrench on my Shovelhead spokes. Not the best solution, but it works. I find that the BIGGER crescent I use, the less likely it is to slip (but quite awkward to use).
Don't worry a lot about spokes that don't sound just like the others, but maybe mark them and check them more often.
I just use wheel bearing grease on the brake pins.

Feels good doing your own service doesn't it? :s
 
Rowe HEAVY-DUTY SPOKE WRENCH from HARLEY-DAVIDSON® OF GLENDALE

Go to your dealer for the wrench. That is where I got mine.
WAP.gif
 
Rmac said:
Would a "flair nut wrench" not work?
Click to expand...
It just might - thanks! I saw this one, and this one at sears . . . it seems like some are specific for brake work. I wondering if they'd work on my torque wrench . . . would the slight offset cause a misreading of the torque? They are pricey!

Thanks - Mark!:newsmile026:

Rubyred said:
Rowe HEAVY-DUTY SPOKE WRENCH from HARLEY-DAVIDSON® OF GLENDALE

Go to your dealer for the wrench. That is where I got mine.
WAP.gif
Click to expand...

I tried ordering it from Newcastle . . . no luck - its not listed. I also tried looking for it on the H-D site . . . again no luck.

Mark:newsmile026:

Breeze3at said:
In addition to TQ's spot on advice, I'll just add. Don't worry about the master cylinder mount nut. I looked at Ronnie's HD parts list and it seems a lot like my '92 Dyna mount, which hasn't budged in 20 years.
There are so many different gauge spoke wrenches, I can't suggest where to get one. I use an adjustable (crescent) wrench on my Shovelhead spokes. Not the best solution, but it works. I find that the BIGGER crescent I use, the less likely it is to slip (but quite awkward to use).
Don't worry a lot about spokes that don't sound just like the others, but maybe mark them and check them more often.
I just use wheel bearing grease on the brake pins.

Feels good doing your own service doesn't it? :s
Click to expand...

I'm world's slowest mechanic . . . but I know I'll do it right - for sure! I'll follow your advice this weekend and see how it works . . . yeah I'm enjoying work on my motorcycle . . . I just wish I had some A/C in the garage . . . San Antonio gets hot!


Mark!:D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
[QUOTE I wondering if they'd work on my torque wrench . . . would the slight offset cause a misreading of the torque? They are pricey!

Thanks - Mark!:newsmile026:[/QUOTE]

Mark, take a look at item 43 in the Misc. Members help section. There is a formula there for calculating torque when using an extension on the wrench. :bigsmiley23:
 
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