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Tore oil filter apart today....

colnajoe

colnajoe

Member
Another "just got a harley" question......

Don't know if my tensioners are going bad, 38,000 on my RK, and I bought it with 31,000. May have already been replace/upgraded, MoCo shows no record.

I know I should crack the cone and take a peek (got my little mirror already), but since redline lubes and oils are fresh, I'm post-poning it for a bit. (money too)

So I tore the filter apart that I just took off and saw one tiny little speck of orange in there....seriously, just a speck. Is that enough to freak out and ground the bike until an upgrade, or is that no big deal? From what I've read, others have seen "chunks" in thier filter when they've started to go.....

What would I see if they are going bad? This site is AWESOME!!!
 
With the miles showing and no record of them being replaced by a dealer I would take a look. You won't loose but a few oz. of oil and only need exhaust gaskets and a cam chest gasket if it is all good. Not to mention peace of mind. If they are worn then you know what you have to do.
 
colnajoe said:
Another "just got a harley" question......

Don't know if my tensioners are going bad, 38,000 on my RK, and I bought it with 31,000. May have already been replace/upgraded, MoCo shows no record.

I know I should crack the cone and take a peek (got my little mirror already), but since redline lubes and oils are fresh, I'm post-poning it for a bit. (money too)

So I tore the filter apart that I just took off and saw one tiny little speck of orange in there....seriously, just a speck. Is that enough to freak out and ground the bike until an upgrade, or is that no big deal? From what I've read, others have seen "chunks" in thier filter when they've started to go.....

What would I see if they are going bad? This site is AWESOME!!!
Click to expand...
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Yes, IF a small chunk is there it is a DEFINITE Sign to LOOK.......

The BEST WAY is to PULL-OFF the cam cover... Do It.. NO Oil Loss OR change needed.

IT is Just a Cover...

Putting it back together with the Original gasket (usually good) is EASY...

IF the exhaust has to be removed ??? on your bike, THEN it becomes a little bigger Job.

Some can get the cover off with-out taking off the exhaust? IF yours can with a modified allen (cut off part of the little 90* part to fit into the allen head that is toughest to get to), Job is much easier.

When NOISEY enough to Hear it, DAMAGE will have been done :wall:newsmile105:.... $$$$$$$$$ more

You CAN replace the MOST likely one, IF it is the outside one chipping away... Replace it...

AND JUST Look at the inner one.... IF inner is good , Button it up for another FEW ? miles.

That is how I would do it IF MINE, and Not wanting to get into it too heavy right now...

signed....BUBBIE
 
My Harley mech (who I trust) say that they should be checked between 25,000 and 30,000 mi. and every 20,000 to 25,000 after. Just good common sense and that orange piece you saw is enough to clog up the oil pump. Like BUBBIE say more $$$$$$!
 
I would open it and give her a good look/see at 20K, then recheckevery 10K, at most, depending on what you see when you look.

If you see a piece in the filter, go in and see. You will need pins to hold the tensioners back when unloaded, and a special socket to unload the outside tensioner. The inside one can be done with a sturdy common screwdriver. To inspect the inside one, you will need a dentist mirror and a good small flashlight. When releasing the tensioners after inspection, lower them gently. If you let them snap back, you may break or crack them.

Word to the wise: You do not have to take off the timing cover. There is nothing under there, and you will likely twist off one or more of its mounting screws. Just remove the outer screws for the cam chest cover (take special note if they are not all the same length). I do recommend removing the front headpipe. It is hard to get the cam chest screws back to the proper torques if you do not.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
I would absolutely take the nose cone off and have a look if I were you. If money is an issue it's really not very expensive to do this. Despite what alot of people say you really dont need any special tools. The manual shows a tensioner unloader tool with retaining pins. I must tell you this is overkill for the job. There is no reason that you cant do it with a simple pair of pliers and a small allen wrench to use as the pin. I bought the special tool but once I got in there and saw how simple it was I realized how unnecesary the tool is.

Like Bubbie said you can reuse the cam gasket. You will get different opinions on this but I have never had one leak. Another option is to use screamin eagle exhaust gaskets. I think they are easier to use than the crush gaskets and they are actually cheaper as well ($8 a pair). Even if you replace the gaskets you are only looking at around $15 and an hour of your time. Well worth it for the piece of mind.
 
Ok, got everything off, spraying the bolts last night made it a non-issue. I found the hardest part was removing the floor board, big bra were block by the brake line. The little hanger that supports the exhaust under the seat was broke, and my tensioners are worn and a little pitted. They are right at 50%. So off to Harley for parts. My paper gasket fell apart, so I need one. Parts told me that the tensioners are 65 each, and a cam service kit is 112. Not getting any special tools, but I am worried what happens to my push rods when I pull out the cams to replace the inner tensioners? How do I keep them from falling into the chest when I pull out the cams? I don't want to replace them with adjustables
WAP.gif
 
colnajoe said:
Ok, got everything off, spraying the bolts last night made it a non-issue. I found the hardest part was removing the floor board, big bra were block by the brake line. The little hanger that supports the exhaust under the seat was broke, and my tensioners are worn and a little pitted. They are right at 50%. So off to Harley for parts. My paper gasket fell apart, so I need one. Parts told me that the tensioners are 65 each, and a cam service kit is 112. Not getting any special tools, but I am worried what happens to my push rods when I pull out the cams to replace the inner tensioners? How do I keep them from falling into the chest when I pull out the cams? I don't want to replace them with adjustables
WAP.gif
Click to expand...
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I don't know what that 112$ kit is but I never used one,,,,, $$$$$$ for the SE adjustable push rods better idea to me..

NOT going adjustable rods is a Lot more work, and chances for oil leeks from the top end valve (rocker) covers .

I'd spend the money for a set of SE slender taper push-rods(140$) comes with the new chrome tubes and "0" rings needed.. Going the adjustable way, you can save yourself a little work that you have Not done before Nor Need to Do...

If you decide to go with the adjustable follow this:

Using Big bolt cutters ready the valve tubes by snapping off the 4 chrome top cover locks. Put a flat screwdriver in chrome slot top of tube and POP off.... then carefully slide all the tube up from the bottom(i use a clothes pin or rubber bands with paperclips each end fashioned to Hook and Hold the tubes up out of the way and ready for cutter to SNIP the bottom of the push-rod in half... Careful to cover the whole cutter head after it is in the ready to cut position because when cut the cutter will POP and jump out a little so a white small towel WRAPPED around the tools cutting head is necessary to prevent a Mar on the chrome. The first one done will tell you the story.:guitar

NOTE: the valve rod being CUT MUST be in the valve fully closed position.

Keep tract of ALL the large "0" rings in the top of head and bottom top of the lifter block.
You Will have all new ones in the SE taper with the new longer open tubes for more room to adjust when you get to that process.

Thats a start.

signed....BUBBIE
 
Do NOT try to remove the cam support plate without relieving the pressure fromthe push rods and lifters. If you do not go with adjustable push rods (cutting out the originals) you will need to remove the rocker box and such to release the solid push rods from above.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
I got everything out, old pushrods snipped, (got the SE adjustable ones), front tensioner replaced....but to repair the back tensioner, I have to remove the camshafts from the support plate. I got one out, but the other has to be pushed out and I dont have that tool thats in the manual (camshaft remover tool HD-43644), I would love to har of an easier way to get that front cam shaft out of the plate...I pulled the snap ring, and nothing moves.....SO CLOSE
 
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