05 ultraclassic oil and engine light

[Hoople]

There are a few things that can be wrong with the bike that will mimic a bad battery. That is why we want to test it with a Proof Positive test which is a carbon pile load (or resistance load) tester.

A lot of parts stores (Pep Boys & HD themselves), no longer use carbon pile testing because it REQUIRES that the battery be fully charged FIRST before testing. Most customers walk into a parts store with a run down/dead (but NOT bad) battery. It takes too long to charge the battery first before testing so companies now use these little handheld "magic" testers that can test a battery without it being fully charged.

In my opinion that don't work all the time and lie most/some of the time.

 

[harryb]

K, Autozone load tested and said it was fine, put out 500 CCA and it is rated at 400 but it did need to be charged. Left it there there so they can put a trickle charge on it tonight, will pick up and have them load test again tomorrow evening. Then I will bring it home and try the test again. I tried to follow the document about loadtesting but couldnt really follow it. Still confused about the square and circle plugs on the bike though.

 

[Hoople]

Autozone load tested and said it was fine, put out 500 CCA and it is rated at 400

A 20 amp/hr 12 volt battery that delivers five hundred (500) amps for 30 seconds at Zero degrees and maintains 7.20 volts across the posts.
I will take one of those.

 

[harryb]

Replaced the stator and the VR. Stator looked ok but i think it was the VR. Bike is running good. When I put everything back together, bike was still acting the same with engine/oil light on and no change at battery when revved. Then I remember that I didn't plug the VR back in after shoving that stator plug through. Shut bike off and plugged in VR, lights are off and bike is running well. When i rev though, the volts at the battery stay at about 13.1 though and dont climb. I think it is still ok though.

Thanks everyone!!! BTW, the tension pads do show wear, about 1/4 but I will order and replace. I have been running synthetic since i have had the bike, maybe that is why the pads aren't wearing that fast.

 

[Hoople]

When i rev though, the volts at the battery stay at about 13.1 though and dont climb. I think it is still ok though.

If that 13.1 voltage is measured at the battery using a Fluke meter, I would bet you still have a problem. If the new VR and stator are genuine HD parts, I would have expected to see a much higher voltage (something in the low 14's) when the RPM was at 2500-3000 even with a single phase system. It sounds like you have a voltage drop somewhere. If not corrected it will probably eat one of your new parts.

 

[harryb]

Got home tonight and tested again. Probes on battery reads 12.7. turned ignition on started dropping to 12.1, started bike, went to 13.4. Revved to 2500 and read 14.1 steady.

Concerned if you are thinking I still have issue. What else could i check? And yes the VR and Stator came from the HD Dealer.

 

[Hoople]

There is a huge difference between 13.1 and 14.1 when it comes to charging voltages. You would not have been happy with 13.1 volts @ 2500, that is why I mentioned it.

You should be fine with 13.4 at idle and 14.1 volts @ 2500 RPM.

 

[70_West]

I'd be a bit concerned about that much voltage drop with the switch on and engine not running. 12.1 vdc is a very low voltage reading considering that 12.0 would be considered essentially dead... Does the voltage possibly come back up to 12.7 after it's sat a few minutes without starting the bike? If it does I would feel better about it...

Only reason I am asking is that it sounds like you initially checked the battery after it had been charged by the bikes electrical system (12.7 reading), then basically hit it with a light load (Lights, ignition system and such), and it read 12.1 volts... That would be indicative of a surface charge and a poor man's load test. Your battery may be on it's way out as well, if it doesn't come back to or near full charge once the key is shut off... not an uncommon occurrence with charging system problems.

Motorcycle batteries are very susceptible to damage from cycling up and down, going from 12.9 to 12.1 is essentially going from full to empty. Repeat that just a few times and you have a battery that is definitely damaged, do that to an old battery and you've killed it.

If nothing else, I would keep a close eye on that feller, nothing worse than trying to push off a Harley Davidson Motorcycle... Aargh!

 

[harryb]

K, put probes on batt again, 12.7, turned key dropped to 12.1 but stayed there, started bike went to 13.1, rev to 2500 climbed to 14.1 and held steady. I think it is doing what it is supposed to right?

 

[70_West]

Harry, I think you have a battery on it's way out as well. Hard to say how much life is left in it. Typically it should hold about 12.4-12.5 vdc with just the accessory switch on and the engine off, then with the accessory switch shut off, no motor running, it should immediately start to climb back to or near 12.7 or so.

If it were mine, I would trickle charge it overnight every week or do and then keep an eye on it. Budget a new one for sometime in the near future, 'tis likely this Winter will finish it off.

Just my experience with Buell mind you but for some reason, HD charging system components seem to eat their kin. The stator goes out and the VR follows suit the next week, or the opposite happens. In between there is an old battery being run on low voltage and it dies the next month after you have repaired them.

Your charging system seems to be working great, least you don't have to worry about that being the problem.