07 roadking and Crank Runout Concern
- Thread starter workinman
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dolt
Well-Known Member
Both would be nine "bolt in" cams; the Redshift 525 and Crane 300-2 are also two good choices but don't write off the SE204 because it is an HD cam; very underrated and works great in a 96"er..
Thanks for all of the advice. I am sure it needs a camshaft replacement. I will have to do some reading, I have asked several guys in my area. One fellow says use gear drive and I liked the idea but the pressed together crank nixed that idea , or it seemed to do so far me. I asked about the kits that do require cutting the pushrods some like the idea some don't , I don't have any experience so I read and try to make since of all of this. I really appreciate the advice Jim
RibEye
Senior Member
RibEye
Senior Member
I have not been into that part of my engine as yet. But, I have heard that you can get the pushrods out, by removing only the rocker boxes. If that is not true, and you have to pop the heads too, you might as well go for a port and polish while you're at it.
Just my 2 centavos...
Enjoy,
Rich P
FerrousBueller
Junior Member
Each time I watch this video I get something more out of it.
Cam Replacement on a Harley Davidson Twin Cam, including Pushrod Removal • J&P Cycles
It's kinda long but, worth it I think.
I would like to upgrade my cams too. But only because I haven't done it before, and because I think I can.
Cheers!
Ferrous
Cam Replacement on a Harley Davidson Twin Cam, including Pushrod Removal • J&P Cycles
It's kinda long but, worth it I think.
I would like to upgrade my cams too. But only because I haven't done it before, and because I think I can.
Cheers!
Ferrous
dolt
Well-Known Member
Good exhaust; very important and TTS tuned. The 204 can be tricky to tune but not beyond the capabilities of a competent tuner. Replacing the OEM rocker arms with the 1.7 ratio rockers is also a common tweak. I should qualify the 100TQ/965HP figures; speaking in general terms. Could be 98TQ/92HP but still impressive for a cam only upgrade to a Stage I motor with an OEM cam set.
Pushrods can be removed by loosening the rocker arms/support plate; heads do not have to come off.
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I have seen the video before but as you said you get something out every time , In the video the crank was out .007 and in spect
just how much before you wipe out the oil pump . . What is the doing to the crank shaft bearings? Of course gears could not stand that abuse. For very long I know most bikes or ok but would you do that also, At what point do you fix it .013 I sure would not just install a stock crank. I was told by a I consider smart guy tell me keep doing what your doing and you going to keep getting what your getting. Of course that just my experience JimFerrousBueller
Junior Member
I have seen the video before but as you said you get something out every time , In the video the crank was out .007 and in spect
My input was meant to simplify some of your questions. By watching the video you can see how easy it can be to cut your pushrods for removal.
Many of the other opinions of the forum members suggest crank runout is not as big of a problem as we were led to believe. Here is my suggestion: pick a cam based on your riding style. Install cam and check for runout. If runout is too much, stop what your doing and remedy the crankshaft issue. How much runout is too much, I dont know. Many of our forum members know better than I do and it's probably posted some where here.
I hope that helps.
Cheers!
Ferrous
dolt
Well-Known Member
Go back and read #17.
.003" runout is the max for gears; you can get by with more with the chain drive setup. Personally, if runout was greater than .005", I would pull the crank and have it trued, balanced and welded for a high performance application. If stock or Stage I and the runout was excessive and not to the point that the vibration was uncomfortable and/or breaking fairing brackets, I would run it until it got worse. .007" runout will eventually take out the oil pump and pinion bushing in the cam plate but if less than 5000 miles a year are being rolled up, one could forego crank work for a while.
.003" runout is the max for gears; you can get by with more with the chain drive setup. Personally, if runout was greater than .005", I would pull the crank and have it trued, balanced and welded for a high performance application. If stock or Stage I and the runout was excessive and not to the point that the vibration was uncomfortable and/or breaking fairing brackets, I would run it until it got worse. .007" runout will eventually take out the oil pump and pinion bushing in the cam plate but if less than 5000 miles a year are being rolled up, one could forego crank work for a while.