2 Clutch Question

[revok1200]

Wouldn't even have thought about rotating the case, worth a try.

I did notice a few spots on the case that looked worn/dented, besides, why not see if I can get an even 100k out of it before changing.

Thanks again

 

[btsom]

One other thing to consider/check if you wish. The clutch hub adjuster screw has a tendency for the threads to get burred. That causes a resistance which feels just like finding the contact point for the disengage rod. There is a chance your adjustment screw is much more than 1 turn out of you have made repeated adjustments mistaking the burr resistance for the contact point. The next time the derby cover is off, try using a wrench to turn the adjusting screw until you see the center plate in the clutch start to move. That has gotten you slightly past the contact point and hopefully smoothed the threads on the screw. Back out the screw and make your adjustment to your favored point and see if helps establish a clean disengagement after the cable is set.

 

[Mongo1958]

Looking for some info from the forum on this possible clutch issue?

2006 Road Glide with a 95" upgrade.

1. While sitting still with bike in gear and clutch pulled in, if I rev the engine the bike will lunge forward slightly.

If I keep the revs up 2000 approx. the bike will try to pull forward.

I have adjusted the clutch and cable by the book several times and still have same result.

2. When adjusting the clutch adjuster screw, the book says to back it out 1/2 to 1 turn. I have tried 1/2, 3/4, and 1 full turn and have had the same result.

Any good ideas or exact causes?

The clutch hub was replaced earlier this year due to some chipping in the splines, I was told the plates were good at that time.

Problem started a couple months ago.

The bike still has the original clutch cable on it and 90K miles on the bike.

Any ideas or advice will be appreciated as usual.

Thanks in advance

I had a simular problem too. I found that the lub I was spraying in the the cable did not work well. I used the Harley lube that the dealer used and the cable is much smoother an the clutch feals goo again.

 

[revok1200]

One other thing to consider/check if you wish. The clutch hub adjuster screw has a tendency for the threads to get burred. That causes a resistance which feels just like finding the contact point for the disengage rod. There is a chance your adjustment screw is much more than 1 turn out of you have made repeated adjustments mistaking the burr resistance for the contact point. The next time the derby cover is off, try using a wrench to turn the adjusting screw until you see the center plate in the clutch start to move. That has gotten you slightly past the contact point and hopefully smoothed the threads on the screw. Back out the screw and make your adjustment to your favored point and see if helps establish a clean disengagement after the cable is set.

Thanks for the info. Next time I am taking a look at it, I will try what you suggested.

 

[glen073]

I am careful about the cable routing on my bike. I have noticed a few times on my 09 King that IF the cable is changed in Position (slid down or up) the cable adjustment Does change a little... I use a tight cable adjustment and try for the 1/16 Max. up to only 3/32"... This is almost impossible to be that Anal on adjusting but I try...:shock :small3d026:

On my bike Also: it is very hard to keep a 1/16 adjustment.. Once there and watching the cable to keep it in the same routing position IS Necessary...

I have also tried to get the clutch to Pull IN a little more
(just to see "IF" it clunks ass much and IT doesn't).

I have even PULLED and held clutch cable OUT a longer distance away from the ferrule (using brut force) AND Yes, that little bit helped...

That is why I suggested that....

Now with my SE clutch spring in....Forget that experiment from happening.....

I am under the thinking that some Clutch Handles pull out more cable than others so "I" have that tight setting needed...

One has to be very careful so the throw out Balls are not in constant use or they will wear-out early on in life.

I always try to count to 5 full seconds and No blipping the throttle After clutch pulled in before I shift to 1st on a take-off from Neutral. This seems to help.

I use Redline ShockProof Heavy in the tranny and never ever have ANY metal on the magnetic plug from all the Clunking it does. 74,000 miles and still working great.

Also been using Red Line Shockproof in tranny and 20/60 in Primary on 04 Road Glide with 95". Original clutch at 115K and not one problem.