2006 Dyna Low Rider Cam Upgrade

[enginebuddha]

Jetfixer, thank you for responding! I'm 59, so not that far behind you. I have a friend who owns a shop that specializes in HD's, who I will probably have install it. Otherwise I am going to buy some special tools and do it myself. I'm getting kinda burned out on mechanical work though, keeping all my junk farm equipment going! I already have the factory shop manual and have done quite a bit of research on the internet. Doesn't look all that tough. Your comments about the 48H, in an 88 incher, along with what Mr. Bingham said, makes me believe it would be my optimum choice. If you see this, I would like to know if you had to run a "tuner" with a special map, or did the 2006 EFI brain box compensate for the addition of the cams? Thank you again Jetfixer!

 

[Jetfixer]

Enginebuddha,

I am running a Doebech Techclusion TFI. After the cam change I rechecked the settings and didn't have to change a thing. All settings remained the same.
OOOPs, forgot to mention one important item. I also installed the HD Screamin Eagle Adjustable Pushrods during the cam change. I didn't want to disassemble all the top end so I went with the adjustable pushrods. Cut the old ones with bolt cutters. Installation was a snap, nothing to it, directions were easy and straight forward. I got them from Zanottis, good price.

Enginebuddha, for info sake, I also just completed going into the primary for two reasons. Install Baker High Torque Inner Primary Bearing (IPB) and take a look at the Alternator Rotor. I have read many posts talking about early failures of the IPB and also the two piece rotor torx head screws coming loose and destroying the stator. All this being specific to the 2006 models. My owners manual identifies a 15000 mile replacement on the IPB, installing upgrade bearing kit takes care of that nuisance (plus I don't have to worry in the back of my head). I checked torx screws on the rotor for tightness (all were tight) and had them spot welded so they will never come loose.