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2006 Dyna steering stem nut

So do you loosen top tree or bottom? Just got done taking everything apart, took off stem nut and loosened top tree, pulled it up and star nut was way loose. Tightened up star nut and dropped top tree down and retorqued it. Put on new washer and torqued stem nut to 75 ft. lbs. So is this correct or not? Thanks for any info.

Well I had always thought it was the top one but the manual says the bottom one. Guess that way you will keep the correct tube distance above the top tree. Sorry if I mislead you earlier. I wouldn't think the tree will move a whole lot but in anycase the manual says the BOTTOM one as sideshowbob said previously.
 
Where in the service manual are you seeing this? My manual says to remove stem nut then loosen top tree. Adjust star nut then torque stem nut and finally torque top tree. You can't get to the star nut without moving top tree up and out of the way. Funny thing is I just took bike for a ride and it is handling funny now, kinda feels wobbly. So how do you do adjust the star nut by loosening the bottom tree when you need to move the top tree out of the way to get to it ? Thanks for any info.
 
Where in the service manual are you seeing this? My manual says to remove stem nut then loosen top tree. Adjust star nut then torque stem nut and finally torque top tree. You can't get to the star nut without moving top tree up and out of the way. Funny thing is I just took bike for a ride and it is handling funny now, kinda feels wobbly. So how do you do adjust the star nut by loosening the bottom tree when you need to move the top tree out of the way to get to it ? Thanks for any info.

Well to be honest I thought I had read somewhere that it was the top tree also, but tonight I checked and Page 1.17 of the HD 2007 Dyna Repair Manual on step 9 it says, Loosen lower triple clamp pinch bolts.

If yours says top then I would do top. Either tree can move (and shouldn't move much at all) but I would think that the top tree might mess up the correct amount of protrusion beyond the tree. It is the star nut that actually tightens the bearings though. The stem nut just holds the hold affair in tack.

Step 8, Bend down lock washer, and loosen stem nut.

Step 9, given above

Step 10 Tighten of loosen the star nut until the fall away measurements are within limits.

Step 11 Tighten Stem nut to 45-55 FT lbs (Dyna)

Step 12 recheck Fall away, if still good tighten lower clamp pinch bolts to 30-35 FT lbs (Dyna)

Bend lock tab back up.

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You know I think I remember now more about where I read the top tree. It appears in some placement scenarios one cannot access enough of the star nut with a screwdriver to turn it. In that case some folks will loosen the top tree (but don't remove it) and just slide it up some.

I would think if you have to loosen the top tree pinch bolts then DON'T also loosen the bottom tree or a possibility of tube sliding.

I have done a fall away test on my bike twice, but each time did not have to adjust it, since it's been with the 4" limit each time.

Here's a link to a PDF file that actually shows some sort of special tool that folks (who have a lot of money) use on the star nut.

http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/nbat1_npa.pdf

The important thing is to have at least one tree loose so a small amount of movement is possible when tighening the bearings (star nut). Hope this cures up any remaining ambiguity in the matter. The HD manual sometimes leaves gaps in it's coverage.

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RWB, My 2006 service manual same page as yours step 9 loosen upper tree pinch bolts, slide tree up and tighten one pinch bolt to hold it up, adjust star nut. Loosen tree pinch bolt, slide tree down. Torque stem nut then torque pinch bolts. I didn't do the fall away test as it seems absurd to me especially giving you that big of a tolerance for everything to be O.K. I have never had the steering stem apart on a street bike but did it sevral times on dirt bikes. I adjusted mine like I did on dirt bikes which was hand tight then a couple taps with a rubber mallet and drift. I think it's just a bit tight, when I'm going slow it kinda feels wobbly probably because the bars don't move quite as freely as before but my neck bearings aren't taking a beating either because they are to loose.
 
RWB, My 2006 service manual same page as yours step 9 loosen upper tree pinch bolts, slide tree up and tighten one pinch bolt to hold it up, adjust star nut. Loosen tree pinch bolt, slide tree down. Torque stem nut then torque pinch bolts.
Well there you go. Sounds like the 06 manual is more complete than the 07 manual or else they later got concerned about the tube protrusion distance past the top tree, which I trully believe a star nut movement would be to small to matter.

I didn't do the fall away test as it seems absurd to me especially giving you that big of a tolerance for everything to be O.K. I have never had the steering stem apart on a street bike but did it sevral times on dirt bikes. I adjusted mine like I did on dirt bikes which was hand tight then a couple taps with a rubber mallet and drift. I think it's just a bit tight, when I'm going slow it kinda feels wobbly probably because the bars don't move quite as freely as before but my neck bearings aren't taking a beating either because they are to loose.

Well I wouldn't call the TEST absurd. If you ever have high speed wobble you probably won't either. I test mine every year or so. It don't take long.

First raise the front end (or bike) off ground on a near level surface.

Then remove the clutch cable (use right size snap ring pliers or you will loose the ring). Kinda greasy mess but necessary.

Put a chair in front of the front tire, lay a pencil or any such object on the chair and lay a weight on it (5 lbs or so) to keep it from moving.

Test your fall away first just to find where the center is, (rarely will it be with the tire straight ahead). Once you locate the center of fall away, slide the pencil and weight to the center of the tire while it's sitting at said center of fall away.

Then tap the tire one way and note the distance it moves until it falls away. (I use a measure tape)

Then tap the tire the other way and note that distance. The total of both distances should not be over 4".
 
Thanks RWB, I was wonrering what you would use as a pointer to measure fall away, the chair idea is good. I will use a 12" ruler as a measuring device instead of a pencil. I have been riding all my life ( 30 yrs. or so ) and have never had a high speed wobble, I would think that it would be more prevalent with loose neck bearings not to tight. I was starting to experience head shake and clunking with mine which led me to discover the service bulletin. My star nut was completely loose, I could turn it by hand easily once top tree was out of the way. I will take it back apart and loosen it up a bit and try the fall away test as I think mine got a bit tight once I torqued stem nut to new specs of 70-80 ft. lbs.
 
First off good to be back! Timely as well, just this weekend riding all over @ the Bainbridge Bikefest, I heard this very CLUNK mentioned here. Going to ride home from work and get the tools out. Didn't know what that noise was. So much to learn, always very appreciative of having this site to keep my butt safe.
 
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