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2006 Elecrta Glide Classic VR issue

hargun2 said:
you talked about have continuity from one ground pin to the frame as being normal, question: would that be true even if I have all the grounds isolated from the frame when I'm showing continuity, or do I have a wire in the harness grounding on the frame?
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If you had a bare frame with a voltage regulator mounted to it, you would read continuity from 1 pin (of the 2 wire connector) to frame ground.

As far as the two wire connector coming from the regulator, 1 wire is Ground and the other is Battery positive. The frame (case) of the regulator, is also grounded or connected to the Ground wire.

Also let me know what type/brand of meter you are using so I can get a visual of what is going on.
 
let me try to explain this better, My thinking was to look at the wiring diagram and remove all the grounds from the charging system so that all of those wires were not connected to anything and completely free of the frame. Then I wanted to see if I had somewhere in the harness running from the VR back aliong the right side of the frame any continuity between the VR plug and the frame and I did, which to me would indicate that I was shorted to the frame somewhere along those harnesses. Am I on the right track??
 
hargun2 said:
let me try to explain this better, My thinking was to look at the wiring diagram and remove all the grounds from the charging system so that all of those wires were not connected to anything and completely free of the frame. Then I wanted to see if I had somewhere in the harness running from the VR back aliong the right side of the frame any continuity between the VR plug and the frame and I did, which to me would indicate that I was shorted to the frame somewhere along those harnesses. Am I on the right track??
Click to expand...

I don't really understand exactly what you are trying to determine. Are you saying you think the output of the regulator may be shorted to ground and that may have caused the original regulator to go south?.
Since the charging system is permanent magnet, there is not much to it as far as wiring harnesses.

I don't actually have a set of schematics for an '06. I am using the schematics for an '09 and hope they are close. According to the '09 schematics, the regulator B+ output is protected with the main maxi fuse before it goes into the battery. But since the alternator is permanent magnet, you don't need a battery to get any output.

Your getting close to knowing what is going on. Get me the part number of your regulator. Like NewHD74 said earlier, the schematic I have of the regulator may not even be what you have. That print I made up was from an HD #74631-06 ('06 Dyna). Your internals can be different. But the fact you had that .3 voltage drop was Good.

Important question. In my '09 electrical service manual, there is No "Bleed Test". I just want to make sure you are actually using an 2006 HD Electrical Service manual part number 99497-06 or 99483-06 Service manual.
That bleed test was dropped for my bike or at least is no longer used.
 
I was trying to simulate or completely isolate the harness from any component, just like it was completly remove from the bike so I could check continuity from one end of the wire to the other. As far as the bleed check, It might not be a check for the 06....I was assuming it was because I was told that the charging circuit was the same (you know what they say about assumptions) not sure, I'm using a 02 electrical manual. I did put all back together Friday and road it about 20 miles and the Voltage meter sat right at about 14.5 while at speed and at idle at the stop signs. I will get the info you asking for and reply tomorrow . Thanks again for your time.
 
Ok. Well then I would say that as long as your not reading direct battery volts (same volts as Battery) on the 3 stator wires, (which you are Not), I would say you are Good To Go. I am guessing that the bleed test was for earlier model voltage regulators and does not really apply to our bikes.

Reading voltage on the 3 stator wires is OK as long as it is not the same amplitude as battery volts.
At least that is true for the #74631-06 regulator.

Like HarryB said earlier....Go Ride!:p
 
to answer yesterdays questions P/N of the VR is 74505-06 and when doing the checks accross the three pins I got the following readfings: 1&2 1.789 2&3 1.797 1&3 1.788 and I was using a Radio Shack auto range volt meter and the scale I was on was a arrow+ symbol that I think is a continuity or diode scale. When I was on the ohms scale there was no reading displayed. I also checked out the old VR and had readings on the ohms scale 1$2 350.2 2&3 338.4 1&3 348.6 and on the arrow+ scale I read 1.633/1.636/1.632. I'm concerned because I really have not found a hard fail that would explain why the bike's battery/charging lights came on and the volt meter reading was below 11 volts. I have now changed the stator, rotor and the VR.
 
Hargun2, Sometimes these things just fail (Wear out) there may have been no certain thing that caused it. I admire you for trying to get to the bottom of it, but you've fixed the problem. Don't worry about the new parts, they may last 10-years with no problem what so ever. Have you ever noticed some light bulbs last years & years, then some only last days... such as it is with electricity. If you've found no area that may have caused it, and I think that has been the case with the help of Hoople. The only thing left to do is wait for warm weather(around the corner I hope) & enjoy that bike of yours... Congratulations :D
 
When you say you have not found a hard failure I take it you mean with the old regulator your output was low,,, and with the new regulator the output is "good" ...but when you conduct all the VR tests it appears both regulators are "good" or you don't fail any tests.

If the above is what your thinking, remember there is no way that a few simple external tests with a meter could possible test the complete function of the voltage regulator. There are a bunch of components inside the regulator that make up internal control circuits that can not be tested externally. I would bet that is the case with your old regulator.

The readings you read on the 3 pins for each regulator indicate a "good' status and at least you don't have any Dead shorts on either regulator. But on your old regulator you have a front end control circuit that went south. That's why you can't see it with simple external meter checks.

You have good diagnostic skills. But your thinking beyond the scope of the service manual. :s
 
just wanted to make sure I don't miss anything!!!!!!! there is nothing worst then have your bike go south 1000 miles from home and I'm sure you can all relate to that. So, you think my initial problem was my VR then? Well now I have a spare stator and rotor that hopefully I will not ever have to use. You guys are awesome thanks for your time and patience with me I will put it back together and ride it and of course stay close to home until I have a few miles on it and gain some confidence that it will not go south a gain for the same problem.....
 
Hargun2, nothing wrong with being through...but the flip side is you cannot test IN quality, or determine if something is good. Sometimes we have to do due diligence, the balance being a "leap of faith". Take it easy and verify accuracy of your voltage meter w/ an accurate DMM i.e. if it reads 13V but is actually 14V you will know.

Been riding since the late 70's, still learning and still riding, smiles per mile, trumps the worrying of broken hardware. That is why we have site like HDT...to share our experience and confidence to make things better.
 
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