2010 FXDF Tire Changing

[ngjandm]

woohoo...I am ecstatic. Learned a ton with this ordeal. got a c-clamp and a piece of wood, pushed those pistons back into place with the mc cover loose. job is done and I had a great time.

dumb question now though, I assume I need to bleed those breaks. I had the mc cover open. I never gauged how hard the breaks squeezed the disc in the rear, so pretty much don't know if when pushing on the rear break its supposed to only gradually stop the bike.

cross another item off the list where I might have brought it in to the stealer in the past. this was quite fun.

will need to make sure brakes are ok b4 putting back on my saddle bags which are not quick disconnect.

 

[ngjandm]

I would definitely do this myself again. Front tire still has some life, but I already have the tire and all the equipment.

I love doing the stuff myself, because the money saved goes into new tools. when our clothes drying stopped heating, I researched and replace the heating element myself, and the money saved bought me a nice multi-meter.

this go around, the money saved bought me a nice new 3/8" torque wrench. I already had a 1/2" as well as some sissy bar locks.

but overall i think the learning experience on the bike itself is worth the effort.

...and thank-you everyone for their encouragement, advice and words of wisdom.

 

[tourbox]

As far as bleeding the brakes you shouldn't have to If your MC went dry then you will. I usually do as you did on the install and then while the tire is still off the ground I will rotate tire and pump the pedal back up. Do this several times to make sure brakes release each time. You'll feel the pedal get firmer.
Glad you were able to do the job yourself, a lot of personal satisfaction there.
tourbox

 

[Jennmarr]

Good job!

 

[fin_676]

A large C clamp and a piece of soft wood are to me essential workshop tools when working on wheels and brakes
Bleeding brakes should not be required at this stage just pump the brake a few times till the pads are touching the disc
However if the brake fluid is over 2 years old or you are unsure of the age of it now may be a good time to replace it

Brian

 

[ngjandm]

dang, my front brake has dual disc, time to shell out more money for another set of front pads.

I did a bunch of reading, and the pads need to bed in (or whatever its called), but I assume they touch the disc all the time, not like bicycle brakes which retract when not used.

 

[fin_676]

dang, my front brake has dual disc, time to shell out more money for another set of front pads.

I did a bunch of reading, and the pads need to bed in (or whatever its called), but I assume they touch the disc all the time, not like bicycle brakes which retract when not used.

The discs spinning back the pads off a wee bit but they are still lightly touching the discs all the time
I have read in places 100 to 200 miles to fully bed in a set of pads however a 200 miles on the freeway might not do it
I have in the past replaced brake pads just prior to having bike inspected and with 25 miles to inspecting indy brakes passed testing on a rolling tester but that is 25 miles of winding roads where the brakes do get a good workout from time to time

Brian

 

[Jennmarr]

bike inspected and with 25 miles to inspecting indy brakes passed testing on a rolling tester



Brian

Not to hijack the thread, but what is this inspection/testing you refer to? I know European vehicle licensing procedures are different than what we have in the US, but do they perform some kind of brake test? Who pays for that?

 

[fin_676]

Not to hijack the thread, but what is this inspection/testing you refer to? I know European vehicle licensing procedures are different than what we have in the US, but do they perform some kind of brake test? Who pays for that?

Here in the UK we have the MOT (ministry of transport) inspection annually on all road going vehicles over 3 years from date of first registration all aspects of vehicle safety and compliance with regulations are inspected
Bikes are weighed then the brakes are tested on a rolling brake tester and must score a certain percentage of breaking power depending on the weight of the bike
Operation of all lights horn brakes suspension tyre tread depth tyres are fitted correctly inspector has a check list of stuff to go through including the exhaust system so I fit stock system for inspection
On arrival hand over registration document inspector logs the vehicle into the central system of the DVLA (driver and vehicle licensing agency) the inspector then uses his check list to guide his inspection round the vehicle once complete he then updates the results on the system there is a minimum time limit on each vehicle type
If you fail with a simple problem inspector will fix and mark as such on the system if a more complex repair is required and the vehicle is left on the premises it has 10 days to be repaired and test results updated otherwise the vehicle needs to be taken off the road till repaired
All UK traffic police cars are fitted with anpr (automatic number plate recognition) the anpr scans all passing vehicle number plates and checks with central database if the vehicle is legally on the road and will alert the police officers of any violations it finds
All vehicles require insurance mot and road tax to be legally on the road vehicles in violation of road use requirements can be seized and crushed by the police
The owner of the vehicle is responsible for the cost of the inspection but the price is set by central government

Brian

 

[Jennmarr]

Wow!! That is a lot more involved than what we have here. The state I live in (Indiana) has no inspection of any kind. The law does require "proof" of insurance before a license plate is issued, but there is nothing to prevent an individual from canceling the policy as soon as a plate is issued.

Is the cost exorbitant?