2011 Ultra Classic Limited hard to get in neutral

[BluesFan]

I'm an oil guy. TQuentin is right about the tranny fluid choice.

Mine have all gotten better with proper fluids based on engineering instead of marketing.

Motor oil in the tranny will work. Proper gear lube will work better.

 

[Hoople]

Now! Vehicle has been returned after first 1000 miles service. Service dept advised clutch needed adjustment. I'm going to try new dealership. Vehicle still not easy to get in neutral. Maybe I will try clutch spring replacement. Still not happy. Found out my dealership is closing doors next month. Maybe that explains the bad service.

Do you know what brand/type of fluid is in BOTH the gear box and the primary. A slightly overfilled primary will drive you crazy finding neutral. The key is having as little parasitic clutch drag as possible. If the output shaft of the clutch is biased to turn, it will be very hard to find neutral. If you can find neutral easy with the engine is OFF, that tells you it is a parasitic drag problem, plain and simple. If it is hard to find neutral even with the engine off, NOTHING you do will make it better. Just give the tranny some time for the "lugged" drive dog ring to wear in. It will get better with time.

When I talk about the engine off test, I do Not mean going from neutral into 1st or 2nd gear. That can be hard to do without the engine running. I mean coming OUT of being in 1st or 2nd and GOING into neutral and Not being in neutral and going into 2nd or 1st gear.

 

[Gus LTD]

My 2010 limited was a bit of a pain to get into neutral as well when new. After putting in a syn gear oil and 3800 miles the problem has gotten much better. I also think it is just a matter of getting used to your new machine. Every bike is a little different and requires a little seat time to adjust to its own personality.

 

[Retrop]

When you have a brand new machine, expecially one with less than 1000 miles on it, you will have issues with things. Machined parts are busy trying to seat themselves and fit into place. It is a normal "wearing in " process. Give everything a chance to break in good. Chances are that when you do your 1000 mile fluid changes, adjust the clutch and cables and tighten up any loose bolts or screws, you will find that everything is better. If not, that is what the service department is for. Before they can fix anything they have to know for sure what is broke.

 

[FLHTK2010]

YES! My 2010 Ultra Limited might as well not have a neutral. I have to turn off the bike and then keep trying to get it into neutral. Of course my dealer makes out like it is me. I did not have this problem with my 2004 Fatboy.
I have only 600 miles on my bike and intended to gripe about this at the 1000 mile/$500 service.
Wow, you guys are riding your 2011 bikes already? That didn't take very long. Congrats on your new rides.

 

[FLHTK2010]

That sounds like a great idea. I'm a reasonably intelligent person. I was very impressed with myself when I changed the brake pads on my 04 Fatboy. Nothing to it really.
I will seriously consider that! Question though.... if I do it myself, will HD try to say my warranty is void?
I have done the oil changes on my FatBoy, but that and brakes is the extent of my motorcycle mechanical experience.

 

[pdatt]

I have a 2011 Ultra with the same issue. BUT, I don't think it's a transmission "problem". I believe it's a pedal linkage problem. I had the same problem on a Honda I owned that I put floorboards on with a heal/toe shifter. I have to rock the Ultra - with the cluch engaged a couple of times before I start the bike - then it will go in to neutral. The rocking moves the linkage some and that does the trick.

 

[Mongo1958]

Joy has you covered. That would be the first thing I would try. I also found running Spectro 6 Speed gear oil in the box helped a little bet also. Maybe an overfilled primary?
I agree with Joy that the problems probably won't go away on it's own.

+1 on the spectro 6 speed oil. I put it in my bike after dumping the Formula +. The spectro has reduced the amount of material found on the magnet plug. After flushing the Spectro I installed Red Line Shock Proof Heavy and the gear niose has been reduced quite a bit. Formula + was in the primary too so I dumped it and put in a synthetic 20W50. Again the noise has been reduced. Shifting is smoother smoother too.

 

[glider]

I have a 2011 Ultra with the same issue. BUT, I don't think it's a transmission "problem". I believe it's a pedal linkage problem. I had the same problem on a Honda I owned that I put floorboards on with a heal/toe shifter. I have to rock the Ultra - with the cluch engaged a couple of times before I start the bike - then it will go in to neutral. The rocking moves the linkage some and that does the trick.

Check the level of oil in the primary and make sure the clutch is properly adjusted as well as the proper oil in the trans. Most 10/30-10/40 oils will do the job without the energy conserving label.

 

[Udawg]

I had the same problem for the first 1000 miles then after the first service it just went away. Sometimes it's too easy to go into neutral now. If I don't shift to second quite hard enough I find neutral.