92-93 1340 EVO Base Gasket

[Jack Klarich]

If you were doing the base gasket would "you" remove the piston or would you keep it attached to the connecting rod? I'm trying to minimize the possibility of things going wrong to ensure a quality repair.

Thank you Jack

I leave the pistons on, just take care to wrap the pistons and do not turn the engine over with the jugs off, you can put rubber hoses on the cylinder studs while you work to avoid the pistons contacting them:s

 

[flhx07]

If you have 4 hands, I'd prefer to leave the piston in the cylinder. I just feel better not having them exposed and the rings getting moved around. As the Softail has a solid mounted engine, I don't see the benefit of loosening the motor mounts (except the frame to heads "y" brace). If you have a problem getting the rear rocker cover off, turn the engine over so the exhaust valve is open. That will give you a little more clearance. When reassembling the rocker box be real careful setting one piece on top of the other. Those skinny gaskets slip easy and you will soon be leaking.

I appreciate the intel, I'm looking at the JP cycle website trying to order the correct Base/Head gaskets (Kit) James, I plan on going with the OEM rocker cover gasket kit. What do you recommend a .020" base gasket?

 

[Jack Klarich]

I appreciate the intel, I'm looking at the JP cycle website trying to order the correct Base/Head gaskets (Kit) James, I plan on going with the OEM rocker cover gasket kit. What do you recommend a .020" base gasket?

You can get a complete top end kit from James, it has ALL of the gaskets you will need:s

 

[fin_676]

If i am tearing the bike down to only replace the base gaskets i leave the pistons attached to the con rods i pack some old towels in the crankcase opening to stop the con rods moving or any debris from falling in

Brian

 

[TQuentin1]

My feeling is that if you are doing base gaskets, you should do a complete top end job: valves, rings, hone jugs, replace all gaskets, o-rings, seals, lifters and bushings. I would also consider adjustable PRs. Also, consider redoing your oil pump. You are disturbing all this stuff (except the oil pump), and it does not make sense in my mind to put back worn parts.

Doing the top end with all new stuff, and then ensuring you follow Glider's ring seating procedure will basically give you back new engine performance. You should be able to get at least 50k miles out of the top end before having to bust into it again. The only real decision in my estimation is whether you should do a cam job too. That would be purely an up-grade decision, and not required.

TQ

 

[flhx07]

For a leak free job I would replace all the gaskets in the kit, follow the instructions supplied. Make sure ALL surfaces are clean and dry of all materials. As far as the mounts, any thing to get access to the rear bolts will be a big plus IMO The wrist pin C clips, I would replace ALL of them and make sure they are seated. I have pulled cylinders off with out removing pistons, you have to be careful the pistons do not hit the cylinder studs

Do you recommend changing the crankcase breather gear? The bike has 14K miles on it.

 

[Breeze3at]

I'm gonna contradict myself here; My '92 with about 70K miles still has the OEM plastic breather. I keep saying I'm gonna replace it with a steel one but haven't yet. I hope I don't regret procrastinating. :newsmile08:

 

[flhx07]

I'm gonna contradict myself here; My '92 with about 70K miles still has the OEM plastic breather. I keep saying I'm gonna replace it with a steel one but haven't yet. I hope I don't regret procrastinating. :newsmile08:

Thanks Breeze, I think I'll hold off on replacing the plastic breather, unless the owner wants me to replace it for him.

My feeling is that if you are doing base gaskets, you should do a complete top end job: valves, rings, hone jugs, replace all gaskets, o-rings, seals, lifters and bushings. I would also consider adjustable PRs. Also, consider redoing your oil pump. You are disturbing all this stuff (except the oil pump), and it does not make sense in my mind to put back worn parts.

Doing the top end with all new stuff, and then ensuring you follow Glider's ring seating procedure will basically give you back new engine performance. You should be able to get at least 50k miles out of the top end before having to bust into it again. The only real decision in my estimation is whether you should do a cam job too. That would be purely an up-grade decision, and not required.

TQ

I agree 100% TQuentin, however the bike only has 14K miles on it, if the bike had approx. 40-50K miles I would agree with you. That and it's a friends bike, I'm just wrenching on it for him.

 

[kdaddy]

92 and 93 were bad for eating base gaskets. I suggest spraying the new gaskets with Copper Coat. 1 light coat, let dry then another coat, let dry and install.

 

[flhx07]

92 and 93 were bad for eating base gaskets. I suggest spraying the new gaskets with Copper Coat. 1 light coat, let dry then another coat, let dry and install.

kdaddy, I was going to coat the base gasket with a "thin" coat of Hylomar® Universal Blue. Is the Copper Coat a better option than the Hylomar ®?

Thank you