Have you been able to do the crank yet?
Hoban Brothers was backlogged big time; just got the crank back last week. Work travel has kept me from completing the build but only the top end is left. The machinist that bored/honed and fitted pistons to cylinders also gapped the rings When I checked the ring gap, I found the rings gapped for a drag race motor that would get the top end replaced after each event; great for power but not so for longevity. This shop has always done my machine work, we just didn't communicate on this one. So I had to order another set of rings from CP; should be in next week and I can finish. We will seat the rings on the dyno and tune; should have something to post soon.
The six speed is new, less than 500 miles; usually takes about 1500 miles or so to "break" them in so I am expecting a minor parasitic loss on power due to the new tranny as well the new parts finding their "sweet" spot and the whole motor loosening up a bit. I will probably get back on the dyno when I have rolled up about 2000 miles on the new motor to get the final numbers.
FYI for anyone installing a DD6 gear set. I was having an intermittent rough 2-3 shift after installing the DD6 and thought I had screwed up the shifter pawl adjustment; rechecked and it was spot on. Called Baker and was told that the shift fork shaft (#30) needed at least .125" of side to side play (don't ask me why) so I checked that and found that I had screwed the set screw (#3) in and the shift fork shaft was pretty tight which I have now corrected. According to Baker, with less than .125" side to side play, the shift fork shaft can bend. I don't know how many of you have had one of those in your hand but I still don't see how it could be bent and am not sure that lacking side play should cause a rough shift limited to the 2-3 shift. But what do I know; Baker's kit so I will defer to the experts. Could just be the parts not quite mated up yet; shall see.
After talking to John at Hoban, I elected not to do the Timken conversion but upgraded both the left and right side crank bearings to the HD "Lefty" bearing. On a bigger motor, say 117" or more, or a drag motor, I would have opted for the Timken conversion.