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andrews 26 cam in 95 build

Fisherking said:
I was toying with the idea of using the andrews tw 54 cams . They say they are for higher compression , with about the same character as the 37/57 . Using my 9 cc dome pistons and a .040 head gasket
Static comp : 10.2:1
Corected comp 9.29:1
Ccc :187.4 @1000
This would meen not having to shave the pistons . They say the power range is the same as the 37s , start pulling at 2200-5600
F.k.
P.s. What are peoples thoughts
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That is as high as I would go with those cams. I don't think avoiding shaving the piston dome is a good reason for making a cam change. You would need to port the heads to take advantage of the 54 just as you would for the 57.

Sounds to me like you first need to settle on a budget for your project and start putting together a build plan to fit the budget. Time to fish or cut bait.:s
 
dolt said:
That is as high as I would go with those cams. I don't think avoiding shaving the piston dome is a good reason for making a cam change. You would need to port the heads to take advantage of the 54 just as you would for the 57.

Sounds to me like you first need to settle on a budget for your project and start putting together a build plan to fit the budget. Time to fish or cut bait.:s
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Nope gona shave the pistons and go with the 37 why put more strain on the valve train . I can always put another head gasket in if I get pinging 0.035 from 0.030
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Fisherking said:
Nope gona shave the pistons and go with the 37 why put more strain on the valve train . I can always put another head gasket in if I get pinging 0.035 from 0.030.
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OK, sounds like you have made a decision. If you are not planning on porting the heads, at least have the chamber volumes measured and if they are not equal, have them equalized; same volume for each cylinder. Not a big deal but will make for a smoother running motor and the crank will be happier.
 
dolt said:
OK, sounds like you have made a decision. If you are not planning on porting the heads, at least have the chamber volumes measured and if they are not equal, have them equalized; same volume for each cylinder. Not a big deal but will make for a smoother running motor and the crank will be happier.
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Sounds good . I might try Jacks way of measuring the head chambers
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Fisherking said:
Sounds good . I might try Jacks way of measuring the head chambers.
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That method is fine but you will need a 100cc syringe; Amazon for about $5. Don't use water, use ATF or something similar. The powder coating in the chamber should be removed. If there is even 1cc difference, you should have the chambers equalized as part of the head work.
 
Sounds good .
Have you ever had some replace the inner cam tensioners with a gear drive . Just the inner two gears . I figure this would take care of not having to worry about the (EDIT) inner tensioner and just have to worry about the easy to change outer tensioners . ?
Another question . Would the runout on the crank still have to be under
0.003 ?
This might be totaly not doable but just curious
Thanks F.k.
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I just priced the gear sets out at J&P
Inner gear set $202.99
Outer gear set $264.99.
Set all together $474.99
Its actualy cheaper to buy the outer and inner separatly lol
F.k.
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Fisherking said:
Just got to thinking . The cams would be running backwards lol.
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Inner gear and outer chains, yes, cams running backwards. Gear drive is best "no worries forever" setup but you need both sets of inner/outer gears and gear drive cams. However, as has been discussed, OEM cam plate, CYCO tensioners and Drag oil pump is a very cost effective way to go. If you were to run gears, the Drag pump should still be part of the plan.:s
 
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