I think I understand the oil pump alingment now with the taperd screws that is what was keeping me out of the cam case . That and I don't have the bearing tools and what not . Iv rebuilt a 350 small block that was pushing about 350 hp. I do gunsmithing on the side as a few extra $$$ and a hobby. I want this as my reliable ride . My gf wants me to get another fb. Gota love her ... This one will be an evo though and ill tear that one apart myself. I think I could do it. But I hate it when I'm done and try to figure out were the extra washer should have gone lol.
If the small block motor didn't blow up, make weird noises, smoke, use oil or catch on fire and you obviously can read; you have the skills. All you need is the service manual for your model year, basic hand tools, no fear and a bit of patience; we are here to bail you out if you get in a jam. You won't have any washers laying around if you are methodical in disassembly. A clean assembly is important; don't want any grit or grime in the top end when you put her together.
There are work arounds for the "special tools"; shade tree methods that I and others have used before we succumbed to "tinkeritus", a terrible affliction BTW, and bought some of those special tools. For instance, you don't need the tapered pins to align the oil pump; you just need start two of the oil pump fasteners at opposite corners and as you tighten them, slowly rotate the rear wheel with plugs out and the trans in 5th gear. Keep doing this until the two fasteners are finger tight and the pump is snug against the plate. The pump is probably aligned at this point but repeat that procedure with the other two fasteners. When all are snug and finger tight; torque to spec.
As for the inner cam bearings, in the lower 48 Autozone will "rent" out a blind hole puller; put down a deposit equal to the cost of the tool and get the deposit back when you return the tool in good condition. Maybe there is an auto parts store in your neck of the woods that offers a similar service? Anyway, make sure the correct size collet is in the kit and the inner cam bearings can be removed with this tool. You can install the new inner cam bearings using one of the take out cams as a "driver". Freeze the bearings overnight, liberally apply assembly lube to the bearing boss and the bearing cage and "tap" the bearings in until the seat in the boss. The bearings should be installed with numbers facing out; the cage is beveled on the backside to facilitate the install. The only "trick" is to be sure you have the bearing started straight in the bore from the jump.
You don't need the little rubber thingy that locks the cam sprockets; those nuts are only torqued to 25 and 35 ft/lb. You put the trans in gear, lock the rear brake and loosen the rear cam bolt first, then the pinion sprocket bolt; install the same way. You can also lock the primary with a piece of flat bar cut to size; my tool is made from an old lawn mower blade.
You will need a ring compressor; no work around for that one but they are cheap. You will need decent in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches but they don't have to be top of the line. You don't "need" the CYCO tensioner install tool but that is one I would purchase; not that expensive and will save some time and maybe some skinned knuckles. You will need assembly lube but DO NOT apply to pistons, rings or cylinders; install those with a light coat of motor oil.
Don't let not having the "special" tools hold you back; save yourself some $$ and get her done.
