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Andrews Cam Kit?

TQ,
you referring to the S/E hybrid cam plate when you say the roller chain? Apologize if it sounds like a dumb question, still learning here. Thanks

There are no dumb questions here on the forum.

When upgrading from the spring-loaded cam chain tensioners and silent chain system, there are two overall options to consider:
  • gear driven cams
  • roller chain conversion
Attached or linked below are two descriptions of these options from Andrews Products. Pay attention to the discussion of lash in the gear drive document. They also describe checking the runout.

Andrews Products Gear Drive

If you decide on the roller chain conversion, you have a number of alternatives that accomplish some or all of this conversion. The HD option replaces the outside chain with a roller chain. But it reuses the inside silent chain, sprockets and if you want cams. The other options replace the silent chains completely and go with the roller chain on the outside and inside. See here for a pictorial of my project:

TQ's Engine Build - Harley Davidson Community

TQ
 

Attachments

  • Cams_conversion_chain-01.pdf
    155.9 KB · Views: 32
Im no cam designer, I go by the seat of my pants on what feel's good, I like the 211's in a light bike like the dyna's, really wake's them up. I have used 37's & 50's in some road kings, they were good cams, with the 50's could get rubber in third gear, it's been a while since I've used andrews but they have always been a top cam builder, you should talk to the dealer you're buying from also, they would have experience installing different cams in your model bike.
Bubbie has a very good point, don't go bigger then you have to, you want a good road able ride.

Here's a little more reading material.
View attachment hybird cam plate with oil pump-J04804.pdf

SE-211 Cam Spec..jpg
 
Well just returned from a local shop with some quotes.. Andrews Gear Drive setup w/new feuling lifters, push rods, 26G cam, and install kit + labor came in at $1497, S&S setup with same style lifters, 510Gear drive cam kit, and pushrods + labor (both estimated at 5hrs labor @ 80 an hr) $1493, now the chain drive S/E set up with a 26H andrews, and all the extras came in around $1150 out the door. They also had 95in cylinders and pistons that they would put in with the package for an $300 + another 1.5hrs of labor... So if i go with this on the high end lookin around 18-1900, low end around 15 from this dealer. Im gonna look up the parts list they gave me on the quote see if I can find cheaper ofcourse, (also quoted to dyno and tune it w/my PCIII in those prices) Thoughts on this anybody?
 
There are no dumb questions here on the forum.

When upgrading from the spring-loaded cam chain tensioners and silent chain system, there are two overall options to consider:
  • gear driven cams
  • roller chain conversion
Attached or linked below are two descriptions of these options from Andrews Products. Pay attention to the discussion of lash in the gear drive document. They also describe checking the runout.

Andrews Products Gear Drive

If you decide on the roller chain conversion, you have a number of alternatives that accomplish some or all of this conversion. The HD option replaces the outside chain with a roller chain. But it reuses the inside silent chain, sprockets and if you want cams. The other options replace the silent chains completely and go with the roller chain on the outside and inside. See here for a pictorial of my project:

TQ's Engine Build - Harley Davidson Community

TQ

TQ, just had a sec to glance over your article, and really good info from what i had a chance to see. Going to read into more when the kids settle down!! Thanks again!
 
Well just returned from a local shop with some quotes.. Andrews Gear Drive setup w/new feuling lifters, push rods, 26G cam, and install kit + labor came in at $1497, S&S setup with same style lifters, 510Gear drive cam kit, and pushrods + labor (both estimated at 5hrs labor @ 80 an hr) $1493,******* now the chain drive S/E set up with a 26H andrews, and all the extras came in around $1150 out the door. They also had 95in cylinders and pistons that they would put in with the package for an $300 + another 1.5hrs of labor... So if i go with this on the high end lookin around 18-1900, low end around 15 from this dealer. Im gonna look up the parts list they gave me on the quote see if I can find cheaper ofcourse, (also quoted to dyno and tune it w/my PCIII in those prices) Thoughts on this anybody?

CHEAPER PARTS are not always the way to go..... I would stick with BRAND NAME ONLY.... Then you should have a quality BUILD....


ARE ALL THE KIT PARTS COMING WITH THE THE S/E set up? : oil pump, support plate, gears n chains for the NEW STYLE hydraulic tensioners?

your quote:
******* now the chain drive S/E set up with a 26H andrews, and all the extras came in around $1150 out the door.

LIKE Chopper said YOU'LL PROBABLY WANT BIGGER CAMS..... HE SUGGESTED 211's and just what he post around here I would TRUST THAT STATEMENT from him..... you have a light bike

those cams like 26/37/ are MOSTLY for the BIGGER SLEDS and I used SS 570's in my TC but with the 95" and higher compression pistons @ 10.25/1...

YOU MIGHT THINK to go with the 95" for the money SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD DEAL depending on which pistons they use... and if bored or NEW cylinder barrels....

CHOPPER MAY HAVE MORE ON THAT....

REMEMBER the oil pump (KIT) and the support plate (KIT) is a MUST IN MY BOOK....... the hydraulic tensioners preferred BEFORE using the GEAR DRIVE

with the gear price and the SS510's they ARE NOT coming with the NEEDED parts like oil pump etc plate PARTS that come with the KIT for up-grade.....


If the S/E build comes with the oil pump and other KIT part LISTED on my part number...IT IS A GOOD DEAL.... but I SAY GO WITH 211's cams....

How many miles on your bike would suggest to me IF I would go with the 95" .... THAT is a good price given you BUT if you want to KEEP the 88" it will do just fine at that...

If you have 12,000 to 20,000 miles on bike NOW i would go for the 95" big bore at this time (just me) and FOR SURE THE 211's cams.

signed....BUBBIE

Later,,,,you can always up-grade to 95" if you want.... as all THAT consist of the UPPER END of which IS NOT TOUCHED FOR THE UP-GRADE ON THE CAM CHEST right now.... that being something ALL ON IT's OWN... and CAN be done latter....
 
BUBBIE,

Thanks for the input, love all the information on this, ive learned a ton over the last couple of days with the info and research from this forum, and from the pictures I seen on TQ's build if had the special tools id be confident to prob do this job myself, all I meant by being "cheaper" was seeing if Zanottis or maybe Chicago HD had the same parts but diff price, i just turned 11,000 miles on it today. Im really leaning towards the S/E set up for the fact it does come with all the parts like you mentioned, the oil pump and cam plate, and would love to get the 95" set up. Its a slightly used setup that someone had added then taken off after about a 1,000miles to put on a 103", it comes with S/E flat head pistons just as you would buy it, i did forget to ask what the compression would be. I had heard that the 211's really like the compression from a statement earlier, so would those pistons be suficient or go ahead upgrade them also?
 
More then likely if they do the big bore you won't get the adjustable push rods.
kemo

Kemo,

That is correct, they did say they would cut out the adjustable push rods if I went that way, should I go ahead and keep them if I go that route?
 
If you go with the big bore I would use the solid push rods. If later you want to play with the cams then you can cut the factory push rods and install the adjustables
kemo
 
Murph the prices you quoted was $300.00 to do the big bore so I would think they would use the stock push rods instead of selling you adj. push rods, about $150.00 which would be the price of the pistons. The S/E big bore cylinders should cost $300.00, these are new prices. the labor 6.5 hrs. sounds cheap, around here it would cost 12-14 hrs. The flat tops would work ok with 211's but would do better with the high compression cast piston's that should be the same price as flat tops. I only suggest the 211 cams w/HC pistons because I have had very happy customers with that set up. I really don't have the experience with the Andrew cams to say yea that's the one you want. I do however feel any cam you chose you will be happy with, it will perform better then stock unless you chose some a monster cam. The avantage to doing the big bore now with the cams is you can save the price of the adjustables and put those $$$ toward the big bore. I would also prefer new parts over used, did they mix up which piston came out of which jug? Are the going to hone and reseat new rings? And the hd lifters I feel are as good as any, I would not buy any high price ones. I would lean towards the harley roller chain w/high flow oil pump kit. Good luck
 
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