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Buying my first touring bike

Sit on your bike. Close your eyes. Put your arms out where you want them to be when you ride. Then, have someone else measure the height, the spread and the pull-back. Yep, I'm serious. You feel like an idiot, but it's worth it. Or, just go sit on a crapload of bikes and see what feels good, and ask what those bars are.
 
Another thought is to just get used to the additional weight and handling of Ultra before any mods. Cause we all know that the mods want us to ride more aggressively and if not used to characteristics of Ultra you can get into trouble in a hurry.
 
Start with complete (engine oil, tranny, primary) fluids change and oil filter so you have a know condition of those. I suggest full synthetics for engine and tranny with appropriate fit-for-purpose lubricants.

Change the fork lube.

Check the brake pads and bleed the brakes.

Check the condition of the tires carefully looking for cracks in the water grooves and on the sidewalls.

Lube the neck bearing which may take a couple of minitubes of lube (I like the green marine lube from OReillys or AutoZone) if it hasn't been done before.

Check the drive belt condition and tension.

See where the clutch grabs and adjust the clutch if necessary.

Get a Battery Tender (Jr.) if you don't have one. Should already have the pig tail there on the right side. Keep the battery plugged in when not on the road.

I agree with the comments above except I would suggest the rest of the Stage 1 (high-flow A/C if not there already). Then something to add more fuel (look at the V&H FP3 as an option).

Then depending on miles, check the tensioner shoes to make sure they are OK (they should be). If not, then also plan on inner cam shaft bearings when removing the plate. Should do those (inner bearings) reasonably soon even if the tensioner shoes are OK (like if you are going for new cams).

Down the road, consider floating brake rotors.

The rest of the stuff is cosmetic wanna-haves. That is a matter of choice for sure.

Cheers,

TQ
 
Get the dealer to include say a 10K mile service as part of the deal. A 2014 shouldn't have many miles rolled up so, most everything should be OK. Finish the Stage I up by replacing the head pipe with a V&H Power Dual head pipe. The HO103 motor has the new HO103 cams which are every bit as good as the SE255; actually a bit better with a bit more overlap, so you are good in the cam department. The HO103 air filter is already a hi-flow, at least by HD standards, so not bad in that department either; probably good to 100HP. You just need to let the motor breath and get it tuned.

Power Vision, SEPST or TTS Mastertune and a good tune will wake that motor up and really all you need do is replace the head pipe, install the tuner and get her tuned.;)
 
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