Cam Change Recommendations Please

[danthern]

No worries, just like to keep things on topic. I doubt that a cam change will solve the chirp issue but, if not, you will have a better running bike albeit still with a chirp. I stand by my original cam recommendations for a cam only upgrade.:icon_wink: There are a couple of others but those two stand out for me. The 48 will pull like the 255 but will make some HP which the 255 and the 48 will carry the TQ out past 4500 rpms; nice flat curve. Of course a good tune is required.:icon_wink:

My experience with mysterious noises from an unknown source are usually discovered accidentally and when discovered one has to wonder why didn't I look there a long time ago.:small3d007:

Appreciate the recommendation....I keep hoping that that accidental discovery happens soon...in the meantime I've got an essentially rebuilt motor, so that's something...

 

[danthern]

Would that Andrews cam be a bolt in or would it require any modification?

 

[Mongo1958]

Hi,

Please understand that I'm not a mechanic or a Harley expert.
That being said, when I installed my Rinehart 4" Slip on's to my 2009 Ultra, I noticed a "chirp". It was very prevalent on the supper slabs or going over a bridge. Now that I have another exhaust system, the chirp is gone.
Later.

 

[dolt]

Would that Andrews cam be a bolt in or would it require any modification?

Any cam set that has lift of .600" or less would be a "bolt in". However, there are differences in cam base circles that would require adjustable pushrods to set proper lifter preload; SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods are as good as any (PN18404-08). Inner cam bearings should be changed as well to the SE full compliment bearings (PN24018-10). If the bike in question is you '09, you have the "B" lifters which were much better than the "C" lifters that were introduced in '11. The "C" lifters are made in Mexico and have a history of rollers failing and he hardened roller surface coming off and contaminating the oil. If you don't have any valve train noise now and the bike has less than 25K miles, keep the B lifters but make sure you mark them so they can be reinstalled in the same lifter bore. If the motor has more than 25K miles, replacing lifters; it's a toss up.

 

[Breeze3at]

The Andrews 48's are great cams for the 96" engine it was designed for. I have them in my Electra Glide and am happy with the performance. Andrews has the 57 cams that are recommended for the 103 and 110 engines. I've read recommendations from respected builder/tuners the 57's are better with the extra displacement.

 

[TQuentin1]

Back to the whole "chirp" issue. I trust that you have lubricated the exhaust hangers at the rear end of the pipes, right? The rubber isolators have a chromed steel hanger going through them and can be a source of periodic and even continuous noises especially when they get very dry. A bit of lube or even never-seize will help eliminate that sort of noise at least for a while until they get dried out again.

Cheers,

TQ

 

[Jack Klarich]

Back to the whole "chirp" issue. I trust that you have lubricated the exhaust hangers at the rear end of the pipes, right? The rubber isolators have a chromed steel hanger going through them and can be a source of periodic and even continuous noises especially when they get very dry. A bit of lube or even never-seize will help eliminate that sort of noise at least for a while until they get dried out again.

Cheers,

TQ

A bit of spray silicone or WD40 always worked for me

 

[danthern]

Back to the whole "chirp" issue. I trust that you have lubricated the exhaust hangers at the rear end of the pipes, right? The rubber isolators have a chromed steel hanger going through them and can be a source of periodic and even continuous noises especially when they get very dry. A bit of lube or even never-seize will help eliminate that sort of noise at least for a while until they get dried out again.

Cheers,

TQ

Those rubber bushings were one of the first things I changed...Thanks to everyone for the cam info...I'm going to wait just a bit longer before I pull them. Sure as shootin I'll change them and still have the chirp...good info, much appreciated

Any cam set that has lift of .600" or less would be a "bolt in". However, there are differences in cam base circles that would require adjustable pushrods to set proper lifter preload; SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods are as good as any (PN18404-08). Inner cam bearings should be changed as well to the SE full compliment bearings (PN24018-10). If the bike in question is you '09, you have the "B" lifters which were much better than the "C" lifters that were introduced in '11. The "C" lifters are made in Mexico and have a history of rollers failing and he hardened roller surface coming off and contaminating the oil. If you don't have any valve train noise now and the bike has less than 25K miles, keep the B lifters but make sure you mark them so they can be reinstalled in the same lifter bore. If the motor has more than 25K miles, replacing lifters; it's a toss up.

Thanks for the excellent info! in response to your points, I do have adjustable pushrods, I've changed lifters in the last 5K and the inner cam bearings as well as the tensioners have been changed (and the oil pump).

 

[Mongo1958]

If changing cams, just makes sense to replace the EPA 255 with an aftermarket cam set that will wake up that 96" motor. Andrews 48 or S&S 551are both good choices. If going the S&S route, go with the EZ starts.

What is an EZ start?

 

[dbmg]

What is an EZ start?

Easy Start Cams