2cyclejohn
Member
The red mark on the pinion is a factory mark to identify the gear tooth pitch, there are red, black and green ones. The red one is an exact match up for the ev27 cam with andrews gear.
John
John
Cam, pinion gear, TDC-timing prob--HELP!
- Thread starter CatWoman
- Start date
Thanks John,
I should have explained there were two 'red' marks -- the one from the factory (as you mentioned, I think they also have a few other colors, i.e. blue, orange), it is near the factory made 'align mark'. The other mark I was referring to was added after purchase. It's a little different color red as well.
Thanks for pointing that out though :small3d015:. Nothing like being clear as mud.
CatWoman
I should have explained there were two 'red' marks -- the one from the factory (as you mentioned, I think they also have a few other colors, i.e. blue, orange), it is near the factory made 'align mark'. The other mark I was referring to was added after purchase. It's a little different color red as well.
Thanks for pointing that out though :small3d015:. Nothing like being clear as mud.
CatWoman
CatWoman,
I got back to Freedom, Family and Firearms on Wed last week, and am WAY glad to be back!!
On your engine, what are the symptoms that make you think something is wrong aside from the "lifter noise"?
It is impossible to have the timing off if all of the timing marks aligned as required and described in the procedure I posted for you. Essentially, the engine is rotated until the pinion gear mark is straight up. The pinion gear is on a tapered shaft with a key, so it CAN NOT be assembled wrong. With the timing mark at 12 o'clock, the camshaft drive gear is assembled with its timing mark aligned to the pinion gear mark. Then the breather gear is assembled with its timing mark aligned with that mark on the camshaft drive gear. No turning of the engine required to do this, just rotate the camshaft until aligned, then the breather until aligned. Almost impossible to mess this up. But, there are some issues with the fit of the pinion-camshaft drive gears. See Attachment 1 for the Note on that. If you have to go to the next size pinion gear due to "lifter-like noise" see Attachment 2.
As for the timing, I am assuming the '89 EVO ignition is the same as the '91. If so, the VOES MUST be working. If you haven't already, I suggest replacing that short piece of hose between the carb and VOES. You check the timing with the engine running between 1300-1500rpm. So you need a tach, timing light, and vacuum hand pump (for checking the VOES). See the attached procedure.
Let us know how it goes.
TQ
I got back to Freedom, Family and Firearms on Wed last week, and am WAY glad to be back!!
On your engine, what are the symptoms that make you think something is wrong aside from the "lifter noise"?
It is impossible to have the timing off if all of the timing marks aligned as required and described in the procedure I posted for you. Essentially, the engine is rotated until the pinion gear mark is straight up. The pinion gear is on a tapered shaft with a key, so it CAN NOT be assembled wrong. With the timing mark at 12 o'clock, the camshaft drive gear is assembled with its timing mark aligned to the pinion gear mark. Then the breather gear is assembled with its timing mark aligned with that mark on the camshaft drive gear. No turning of the engine required to do this, just rotate the camshaft until aligned, then the breather until aligned. Almost impossible to mess this up. But, there are some issues with the fit of the pinion-camshaft drive gears. See Attachment 1 for the Note on that. If you have to go to the next size pinion gear due to "lifter-like noise" see Attachment 2.
As for the timing, I am assuming the '89 EVO ignition is the same as the '91. If so, the VOES MUST be working. If you haven't already, I suggest replacing that short piece of hose between the carb and VOES. You check the timing with the engine running between 1300-1500rpm. So you need a tach, timing light, and vacuum hand pump (for checking the VOES). See the attached procedure.
Let us know how it goes.
TQ
CatWoman said:Hello TQ,
Hope you are doing well.
I am continuing to have problems with my 89 Electra Glide. She is all back together but…I don’t think the timing is right :dknow. There is a noise, it sounds like the lifters however, I have adjusted the lifters and it continues. I checked the timing with a timing light and it is quite different (now hitting on the TDC mark) from that of before the redo (hitting on the Front cylinder advance mark). I believe I put everything back as it was when I took it apart. If the camshaft was originally not placed correctly, could the ignition timing have been adjusted to make it run fine?
Should I work with the ignition timing to move the timing mark to the Front cylinder advance mark :unsure ? The folks here are blaming the problem on the ‘misalignment’ of the camshaft when I put it in lined up with the pinion and breather gears as opposed to keeping the first cylinder at TDC when placing the camshaft.
Tomorrow, I plan on adjusting the Ignition timing (unless you have other recommendations). As far as the shop owner, I hope to bring him around by showing him the manual.
Thanks for your time and help!!
Hope you fly back safely and soon
Sincerely,
CatWoman
Hello TQ, welcome home albeit a little late, I'm glad you made it safe and sound.
Thanks again for the help, I hated to keep bringing up the issue about the timing with the cam/pinion and breather gears :small3d007: -- I was getting a Tremendous amount of pressure that this had to be the problem (however in the last 24 hours, this has decreased extensively) .
The current symptoms :help : with the gears in the correct places (along with corresponding washers or bushings), the adjusting pushrods appropriately adjusted, there is a noise coming from the heads/cylinders that sounds like either the lifters or the valves hitting the pistons. The noise varies in intensity but consistently occurs.
As you mentioned, I previously replaced the hose between the carb and the VOES (it is appropriately in place) and today I checked the power to the VOES (all's fine). Also today, I checked the possibility of the valves and pistons colliding (I used clay and only checked the front cylinder). It seems, the intake valve touched only slightly (probably still just an ignition timing problem). While I was turning the rear wheel with the clay in place, the noise was Obviously audible.
I still need to finish putting the heads back together. I have checked the springs (all 4), front 2 valves and piston. If the noise continues after 'buttoning her up' and attempting to get the timing perfect, What else can be causing the noise? My 'research' has produced the oil seal on the mainshaft of the crankcase as a possible cause, but how do I tell and where else do I look?
This is SO frustating
-- So close, yet So far...Your assistance is appreciated more than I can express - :majesty
CatWoman
As indicated in Attachment 1 above, you may need to go to the next larger size pinion gear. I would be suspicious of that since you have just had everything apart. I am assuming you did not have this problem before, right?
The timing should be OK. The lift on that cam is less than .500" (.495") so you should not have an interference problem with the cover. What procedure are you following to adjust the pushrods?
TQ
The timing should be OK. The lift on that cam is less than .500" (.495") so you should not have an interference problem with the cover. What procedure are you following to adjust the pushrods?
TQ
No, I did not have this problem in the past and it is the original Camshaft and Pinion gear (as well as the original plastic Breath gear, which looked fine but with all this, I might change it out to a metal one). Also, the pushrods and valves are original but I replaced the pistons and tappets. The shop owner has been maintaining the Pinion gear is incorrect (i.e. a duration problem) - but if it is, how did it work so well prior to the cold seizure? Just to be thorough, I guess I will check the valve/piston bumping in the rear cylinder also.
Regarding the pushrods, I have measured the threads per inch as 18 (not typical by everything I have read). With calculations (essentially 1.7 to 1.8 turns to achieve ~.100 movement) I have attempted to follow the directions given elsewhere in the forum on adjusting pushrods. I've re-read and will try adjusting them again when I put everything back together. Hopefully, it will do the trick. So you don't think it is the oil seal in the crankshaft (whew)?
I'll let you know!
CatWoman
Regarding the pushrods, I have measured the threads per inch as 18 (not typical by everything I have read). With calculations (essentially 1.7 to 1.8 turns to achieve ~.100 movement) I have attempted to follow the directions given elsewhere in the forum on adjusting pushrods. I've re-read and will try adjusting them again when I put everything back together. Hopefully, it will do the trick. So you don't think it is the oil seal in the crankshaft (whew)?
I'll let you know!
CatWoman
Well, you mean same ones as prior to this rebuild since the Andrews cam et al are not the HD OEM stuff for that bike. But I think you said before somewhere that the paint mark on the pinion gear and the camshaft drive gear are the same color, right? If not, look at the color code I sent you and see if that pinion is larger or smaller than the pinion that matches the camshaft drive gear color.
So the only things that you changed in this rebuild are the lifters and the pistons/rings, right? You did not mention it above, but hopefully you also changed out the inner cam shaft roller bearing to the Torrington.
The tpi you indicate for your adjustable PRs is an unusual one. Are you positive about that? If you have one available, I would set a digital or dial caliper at 1.000" and actually count the number of threads between the jaws. I would bet they are actually 24 tpi, but you are right there looking at them, so if you say 18, then 18! Then remind me what lifters you put in. What is the lifter piston stroke?
With the "B" lifters from HD, it is about .250". So you want to adjust the PRs to about half that travel or .125". Now I actually adjust mine to be in the .130-.140" range, but all the same. With a 24 tpi adjuster, that is in the 3 full turns and one or two flats. Have tried both, and am currently set at 3 3/12 turns (one and half flats).
The way I do mine is to start with the rear cylinder. Jack the rear up so that I can turn the tire, pull the plugs, put the tranny in 5th, make sure the pushrods are all collapsed (and have been for a while), put a little deal holding up the pushrod covers so I can see the pushrod move, then rotate the wheel until the exhaust opens and closes and then the intake opens and closes and then stick a plastic straw or something like that in the rear spark plug hole and very slowly continue rotating the rear wheel until the straw is just bearly in the cylinder (meaning the piston is all the way up). At that point, the piston is at TDC on its compression stroke. Adjust both rear pushrods. Let them bleed down until you can rotate each with thumb and forefinger easily. Make sure the pushrods are locked (jam nut) and button up the covers. Rotate the rear wheel this time repeating the above for the front cylinder. Done!!
But I like to roll the engine over using the rear wheel a bunch of revolutions listening for any "bad" sounds. Then I will hook up the battery (by the way, had I said to disconnect that?) and turn the bike over some more with the starter still listening for booboo sounds. If it sounds OK, assemble everything and fire it up.
TQ
So the only things that you changed in this rebuild are the lifters and the pistons/rings, right? You did not mention it above, but hopefully you also changed out the inner cam shaft roller bearing to the Torrington.
The tpi you indicate for your adjustable PRs is an unusual one. Are you positive about that? If you have one available, I would set a digital or dial caliper at 1.000" and actually count the number of threads between the jaws. I would bet they are actually 24 tpi, but you are right there looking at them, so if you say 18, then 18! Then remind me what lifters you put in. What is the lifter piston stroke?
With the "B" lifters from HD, it is about .250". So you want to adjust the PRs to about half that travel or .125". Now I actually adjust mine to be in the .130-.140" range, but all the same. With a 24 tpi adjuster, that is in the 3 full turns and one or two flats. Have tried both, and am currently set at 3 3/12 turns (one and half flats).
The way I do mine is to start with the rear cylinder. Jack the rear up so that I can turn the tire, pull the plugs, put the tranny in 5th, make sure the pushrods are all collapsed (and have been for a while), put a little deal holding up the pushrod covers so I can see the pushrod move, then rotate the wheel until the exhaust opens and closes and then the intake opens and closes and then stick a plastic straw or something like that in the rear spark plug hole and very slowly continue rotating the rear wheel until the straw is just bearly in the cylinder (meaning the piston is all the way up). At that point, the piston is at TDC on its compression stroke. Adjust both rear pushrods. Let them bleed down until you can rotate each with thumb and forefinger easily. Make sure the pushrods are locked (jam nut) and button up the covers. Rotate the rear wheel this time repeating the above for the front cylinder. Done!!
But I like to roll the engine over using the rear wheel a bunch of revolutions listening for any "bad" sounds. Then I will hook up the battery (by the way, had I said to disconnect that?) and turn the bike over some more with the starter still listening for booboo sounds. If it sounds OK, assemble everything and fire it up.
TQ
I didn't explain very well, did I small3d015, when I wrote 'original', I meant to me, not to the bike (opps, sorry!!). The camshaft (Andrews EV27 and the Torrington bearing were present when I opened everything up a few weeks ago -- added by someone prior to my purchasing the bike (two other owners I know of). The pinion gear - not sure who put that in, was the only gear to have the red mark(s) - one was similar to others I have seen (factory placed) the other was thin and slightly lighter red (sortof pink) but was barely noticeable, farther away from the teeth of the gear. The cam had no marks on it anywhere - and believe me, I checked.
There also was a different piston not OEM part (which I replaced - along with the rings when I had the cylinders bored out). I used the valves present but had them and the seats reground -- putting in new valve seats but using the same springs and keepers. I did replace Crane Hydraulic lifters for the HD brand lifters which the previous owner had installed although he said the others were not causing problems.
Regarding the adjustable Pushrods - I'm not sure who put them in or what brand they are :dknow, I did measure with a caliper 1 inch (and I counted twice!!). There are 18 threads per inch!!! I even recounted today - still 18 :s (I know from all I have read and even other pushrods I have seen, they are different). Also, not sure if this is odd, but the exhaust rods are black and the others are aluminum in color. The shaft nut is 3/8" and locking/jam nut is 7/16". I have asked several people and googled every combination I can come up with but still can't figure out who made them.
BUT I HAVE GREAT NEWS, (I think/hope)
For some reason, after the squash test (no the valves in the rear cylinder did not hit the piston and the front intake well...), I was checking the tpi on the pushrods and decided to evaluate all 4 rods extensively. THE INTAKE ROD OF THE FRONT CYLINDER WAS BROKEN - JUST A SMALL PIECE (not where the locking nut would be) but about 9-10 tpi from the top (where the rod is still round - no wrench would fit). My great hope, is that this piece was slamming up and down (didn't see any marks) causing the noise. Does this make sense?
I ordered new Crane adjustable pushrods which should be here tomorrow, hopefully, morning. Not sure of their tpi yet - but I will check my technique against the insert information and let you know if I am off)).
I like your idea of using the straw to determine TDC of each cylinder :bigsmiley12:. I have been gauging with pretty good accuracy TDC just by the feel of the wheel going around - but I've been doing it more than anyone should ever have too at any one time! :lol
To see if I have your technique clear:
Disconnect the negative terminal on the batterys)
You rotate the rear wheel [on a jack, in 5th] to get a cylinder to TDC - all the time watching the PRs move while the PRs are extended but not tight, i.e. they touch the rocker arms and lifters but just lightly?.
Once a cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, i.e. after a revolution is complete and the intake closes then the straw rises, you adjust the respective PRs.
Adjusting a PR is done by tightening [with finger and thumb] against the lifter, causing it to bleed down just until you can [again with finger and thumb] get the 3 3/12 turns in?
Tighten the jam nut (the rod can now rotate around?), then move to the other cylinder.
Turn the wheel through several cycles - if no pops, clanks, squeeks, or other odd noises then hook up the battery and take a listen with the engine running. Can you start the engine without having the pushrod tubes closed up - or do you mean just hitting the starter, i.e. getting the starter to move the back wheel?
Nothing abnormal -- it's ride time I can't wait (It's not like I've been out of the country!!!)
I like it...if I've got it!!
Regarding the number of turns I would need to:
Depending on the tpi (let's hope it's nothing odd like 18):
Figure # of flats to cover 1/2 of the lifter piston stroke
[Just to review:
Threads per inch x 6 = threads per flat
1/threads per flat = X (or portion of the inch that one flat covers)
Since the PR is only to cover 1/2 of the lifter piston stroke distance you divide that known value in half)
1/2 lifter piston stroke distance/X = # flats
# flats/6 = Number of turns and possible partial turns or flats]
If I have figured out the noise (i.e. the broken PR), it should only be a matter of a few hours of waiting for the delivery, putting in the PRs and, dare I say it? My bikes new engine gets broken in!!! :yahoo
I guess tomorrow, I will know a lot more -- Thanks again TQ :newsmile106:
CatWoman
small3d015, when I wrote 'original', I meant to me, not to the bike (opps, sorry!!). The camshaft (Andrews EV27 and the Torrington bearing were present when I opened everything up a few weeks ago -- added by someone prior to my purchasing the bike (two other owners I know of). The pinion gear - not sure who put that in, was the only gear to have the red mark(s) - one was similar to others I have seen (factory placed) the other was thin and slightly lighter red (sortof pink) but was barely noticeable, farther away from the teeth of the gear. The cam had no marks on it anywhere - and believe me, I checked. There also was a different piston not OEM part (which I replaced - along with the rings when I had the cylinders bored out). I used the valves present but had them and the seats reground -- putting in new valve seats but using the same springs and keepers. I did replace Crane Hydraulic lifters for the HD brand lifters which the previous owner had installed although he said the others were not causing problems.
Regarding the adjustable Pushrods - I'm not sure who put them in or what brand they are :dknow, I did measure with a caliper 1 inch (and I counted twice!!). There are 18 threads per inch!!! I even recounted today - still 18 :s (I know from all I have read and even other pushrods I have seen, they are different). Also, not sure if this is odd, but the exhaust rods are black and the others are aluminum in color. The shaft nut is 3/8" and locking/jam nut is 7/16". I have asked several people and googled every combination I can come up with but still can't figure out who made them.
BUT I HAVE GREAT NEWS, (I think/hope)
For some reason, after the squash test (no the valves in the rear cylinder did not hit the piston and the front intake well...), I was checking the tpi on the pushrods and decided to evaluate all 4 rods extensively. THE INTAKE ROD OF THE FRONT CYLINDER WAS BROKEN - JUST A SMALL PIECE (not where the locking nut would be) but about 9-10 tpi from the top (where the rod is still round - no wrench would fit). My great hope, is that this piece was slamming up and down (didn't see any marks) causing the noise. Does this make sense?
I ordered new Crane adjustable pushrods which should be here tomorrow, hopefully, morning. Not sure of their tpi yet - but I will check my technique against the insert information and let you know if I am off
)).I like your idea of using the straw to determine TDC of each cylinder :bigsmiley12:. I have been gauging with pretty good accuracy TDC just by the feel of the wheel going around - but I've been doing it more than anyone should ever have too at any one time! :lol
To see if I have your technique clear:
Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery
s)You rotate the rear wheel [on a jack, in 5th] to get a cylinder to TDC - all the time watching the PRs move while the PRs are extended but not tight, i.e. they touch the rocker arms and lifters but just lightly?.
Once a cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, i.e. after a revolution is complete and the intake closes then the straw rises, you adjust the respective PRs.
Adjusting a PR is done by tightening [with finger and thumb] against the lifter, causing it to bleed down just until you can [again with finger and thumb] get the 3 3/12 turns in?
Tighten the jam nut (the rod can now rotate around?), then move to the other cylinder.
Turn the wheel through several cycles - if no pops, clanks, squeeks, or other odd noises then hook up the battery and take a listen with the engine running. Can you start the engine without having the pushrod tubes closed up - or do you mean just hitting the starter, i.e. getting the starter to move the back wheel?
Nothing abnormal -- it's ride time
I can't wait (It's not like I've been out of the country!!!)I like it...if I've got it!!
Regarding the number of turns I would need to:
Depending on the tpi (let's hope it's nothing odd like 18):
Figure # of flats to cover 1/2 of the lifter piston stroke
[Just to review:
Threads per inch x 6 = threads per flat
1/threads per flat = X (or portion of the inch that one flat covers)
Since the PR is only to cover 1/2 of the lifter piston stroke distance you divide that known value in half)
1/2 lifter piston stroke distance/X = # flats
# flats/6 = Number of turns and possible partial turns or flats]
If I have figured out the noise (i.e. the broken PR), it should only be a matter of a few hours of waiting for the delivery, putting in the PRs and, dare I say it? My bikes new engine gets broken in!!! :yahoo
I guess tomorrow, I will know a lot more -- Thanks again TQ :newsmile106:
CatWoman
I think you have it, but just to be sure:
Adjusting pushrod:
With the pushrods removed from the engine, rotate the rear wheel watching the lifters rise and fall to determine when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
With piston at TDC on compression stroke (see above), install and thread out the adjustable end until it JUST touching lifter socket. Make sure top end of PR is nicely in rocker arm socket. Should be able to rotate the PR easily, but no vertical movement.
Mark the flat on the rod facing you and then I ROTATE the TOP section of the PR while holding the "bolt" end from turning (but this is the end that is actually extending). This is just my personal preference, and I think that either end can be adjusted as long as you can keep track easily how many turns have been made (that is why I do it the way I do).
Once the correct number of turns have been made, lock the jam nut, and move to the other PR. Adust it the same way.
When both are adjusted, go take a break for 15-20 min. When you get back, you should be able to rotate the PRs with very little effort. If not, go take another break.
When the PRs rotate easily, button up the PR covers.
Rotate the rear wheel until the other piston is at TDC on its compression stroke, and similarly adjust those two PRs. When all done, then I follow the rest of the procedure I descibed previously.
Calculating the Adjustment
The PRs should identify the tpi for the adjuster end. Let's call that X. So each complete turn of the adjuster is 1/X inches increase (or decrease!) in the length of the PR. So as an example:
24 tpi = 1/24th inch per turn or .0417"/turn
28 tpi = 1/28th inch per turn or .0357"/turn
32 tpi = 1/32nd inch per turn or .0313"/turn
Now as a general rule, to figure out the number of turns you would divide half the lifter piston travel by the number of inch/turn to give you number of turns.
Another method is to multiply the tpi times half the lifter piston travel. In the case of the "B" lifters, since this is a nice figure of 1/8" or .125", we multiply that times tpi to give you this:
24 tpi = 3 turns
28 tpi = 3 1/2 turns
32 tpi = 4 turns
This last method is the easiest. So if you want a different adjustment besides half the lifter piston travel, it is exactly the same process; that measurement times the tpi = number of turns.
Since the adjustable PRs will have hexagonal nuts on the end of the rod part, each flat is 1/6th of the movement noted above or the following fraction of turns per flat:
1 flat = 1/6th = 0.167 turns
2 flats = 1/3rd = 0.333 turns
3 flats = 1/2 = 0.500 turns
4 flats = 2/3rd = 0.667 turns
5 flats = 5/6th = 0.833 turns
So if I wanted to adjust my 24 tpi PRs to 0.140" out, it is:
24 x 0.140 = 3.36 turns
3.36 turns is approximately 3 turns and two flats!!
So, that was all long winded, but I hope it makes sense.
TQ
Adjusting pushrod:
With the pushrods removed from the engine, rotate the rear wheel watching the lifters rise and fall to determine when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
With piston at TDC on compression stroke (see above), install and thread out the adjustable end until it JUST touching lifter socket. Make sure top end of PR is nicely in rocker arm socket. Should be able to rotate the PR easily, but no vertical movement.
Mark the flat on the rod facing you and then I ROTATE the TOP section of the PR while holding the "bolt" end from turning (but this is the end that is actually extending). This is just my personal preference, and I think that either end can be adjusted as long as you can keep track easily how many turns have been made (that is why I do it the way I do).
Once the correct number of turns have been made, lock the jam nut, and move to the other PR. Adust it the same way.
When both are adjusted, go take a break for 15-20 min. When you get back, you should be able to rotate the PRs with very little effort. If not, go take another break.
When the PRs rotate easily, button up the PR covers.
Rotate the rear wheel until the other piston is at TDC on its compression stroke, and similarly adjust those two PRs. When all done, then I follow the rest of the procedure I descibed previously.
Calculating the Adjustment
The PRs should identify the tpi for the adjuster end. Let's call that X. So each complete turn of the adjuster is 1/X inches increase (or decrease!) in the length of the PR. So as an example:
24 tpi = 1/24th inch per turn or .0417"/turn
28 tpi = 1/28th inch per turn or .0357"/turn
32 tpi = 1/32nd inch per turn or .0313"/turn
Now as a general rule, to figure out the number of turns you would divide half the lifter piston travel by the number of inch/turn to give you number of turns.
Another method is to multiply the tpi times half the lifter piston travel. In the case of the "B" lifters, since this is a nice figure of 1/8" or .125", we multiply that times tpi to give you this:
24 tpi = 3 turns
28 tpi = 3 1/2 turns
32 tpi = 4 turns
This last method is the easiest. So if you want a different adjustment besides half the lifter piston travel, it is exactly the same process; that measurement times the tpi = number of turns.
Since the adjustable PRs will have hexagonal nuts on the end of the rod part, each flat is 1/6th of the movement noted above or the following fraction of turns per flat:
1 flat = 1/6th = 0.167 turns
2 flats = 1/3rd = 0.333 turns
3 flats = 1/2 = 0.500 turns
4 flats = 2/3rd = 0.667 turns
5 flats = 5/6th = 0.833 turns
So if I wanted to adjust my 24 tpi PRs to 0.140" out, it is:
24 x 0.140 = 3.36 turns
3.36 turns is approximately 3 turns and two flats!!
So, that was all long winded, but I hope it makes sense.
TQ
Last edited:
oowf
Member
I need to jump in here....
As many of you know, I currently have my cone off my bike to check the same thing... the timing marks. As it ended up they do seem to be OK.
However a question here... what is a new "Torrington". Some type of bearing I assume but how would I know if what I have is new or whether it is a Torrington? For sure it sounds like something I should change...
Please give me a shout on this if it is important.
Thank You!
As many of you know, I currently have my cone off my bike to check the same thing... the timing marks. As it ended up they do seem to be OK.
However a question here... what is a new "Torrington". Some type of bearing I assume but how would I know if what I have is new or whether it is a Torrington? For sure it sounds like something I should change...
Please give me a shout on this if it is important.
Thank You!