Casual question

[R_W_B]

This is no biggy, just curious. Today I torqued my new handlebars to specs. When I first started I noticed the tree to bolt ground wire connector was turning with the bolt. I tried holding with a wood dowel but it kept coming. So I removed the bolt and added a smooth washer top and bottom of the wire connector ring, tried to torque it again, but it kept turning.

So I just torqued it up. Afterwards I look down at it and the wire had stretched and the riser bolt end of the wire connector had suffered failure and ripped apart. Well I don't really think I need the thing (do I ? ) since I don't have any metal grip lites or whatever that ground to the bars (instead of a wire).

But being the way I am I get a new wire clip (had to go to Ace to get one big enough for a 3/4 riser bolt) and I just cut the old failed clip off and then I crimp on an extra 3 inches of wire to go along with the new clip. I put it all on and retorque the bars. Everything is cool but the extra wire was needed since it kept turning all the way aroun to the front.

So for the few of you that didn't get bored on the first paragraph, have you ever had this happen also ?

 

[glider]

Yes you do need it. That wire completes the ground for needed switches and sometimes the lights too on the bars of some models to the risers being the risers are normally mounted in a Urethane or rubber bushing which would insulate the bars from the front end and thus not be grounded.

 

[The Tourist]

I haven't had that exact problem, but others similar to it on appliances and tools.

Before I began, I'd take the wire and counter-wind it the number of turns I needed to apply to the fastener. As the bolt was tightened the wire 'unwrapped' the exact number of times to be straight.

Does that make sense and apply to your predicament?

 

[Dr.Evil]

I would try some dialectric grease and the dowel to hold it.

 

[Breeze3at]

Yes, I have had the terminal turn with the nut. I just unscrewed the little phillips at the other end and let it turn, then reattached it. That wire is needed because the risers are rubber or urethane isolated, even when cinched down the metal to metal contact might not be optimum through the bolts alone.

 

[R_W_B]

Yes you do need it. That wire completes the ground for needed switches and sometimes the lights too on the bars of some models to the risers being the risers are normally mounted in a Urethane or rubber bushing which would insulate the bars from the front end and thus not be grounded.

Well I've got it. Though if I remember right all my switches have dedicated black grd wires. BTW Glider what material are the switch housing made of, I'm guessing aluminum?

I haven't had that exact problem, but others similar to it on appliances and tools. Before I began, I'd take the wire and counter-wind it the number of turns I needed to apply to the fastener. As the bolt was tightened the wire 'unwrapped' the exact number of times to be straight. Does that make sense and apply to your predicament?

Yes makes perfect sense and might would have worked, but just barely since I did try to do just that, but there just wasn't enough length of wire to back it around the far side.

I would try some dialectric grease and the dowel to hold it.

That's interesting, next time I will try that.

Yes, I have had the terminal turn with the nut. I just unscrewed the little phillips at the other end and let it turn, then reattached it. That wire is needed because the risers are rubber or urethane isolated, even when cinched down the metal to metal contact might not be optimum through the bolts alone.

Ah this is the best answer yet, and I was too stupid to think of it until after I broke the OEM connector. With this method I could have backed it around far enough to still be able to hook it up afterwards.

And just to be complete I've had my old riser bolts out once before months ago and it tightend back up without turning. But something about the the way the things were sitting this time caused it different. And also I said the connector had to go around a 3/4 bolt, that was wrong, it's actually like a 1/2 bolt but I used a 3/4 socket to turn it. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Well I've got it. Though if I remember right all my switches have dedicated black grd wires. BTW Glider what material are the switch housing made of, I'm guessing aluminum?



Yes makes perfect sense and might would have worked, but just barely since I did try to do just that, but there just wasn't enough length of wire to back it around the far side.



That's interesting, next time I will try that.



Ah this is the best answer yet, and I was too stupid to think of it until after I broke the OEM connector. With this method I could have backed it around far enough to still be able to hook it up afterwards.

And just to be complete I've had my old riser bolts out once before months ago and it tightend back up without turning. But something about the the way the things were sitting this time caused it different. And also I said the connector had to go around a 3/4 bolt, that was wrong, it's actually like a 1/2 bolt but I used a 3/4 socket to turn it. Thanks for all the replies.

Dave 1/2 inch bolt nominal wrench size is 3/4 so you are correct:s With wire eyes I remove them bolt and all, then hold the wire eye with a pliers and un wind it. Next I use a reamer and ream it back to the correct diameter and use new star lock washers to complete the new ground:s

 

[R_W_B]

.. .. . .With wire eyes I remove them bolt and all, then hold the wire eye with a pliers and un wind it. Next I use a reamer and ream it back to the correct diameter and use new star lock washers to complete the new ground:s

I will have to try a new star lock washer next time. I used the old one. Actually (as you know) it has the star lock washer and also a large compression type lock washer.

I did try putting the wire eye between 2 smooth washers but it still turned.

 

[Dr.Evil]

Just one more idea......
I haven't looked at the bolt in a while, but could you get a second nut on the threads and capture the ring between the two, at a lower torque.

 

[R_W_B]

Just one more idea......
I haven't looked at the bolt in a while, but could you get a second nut on the threads and capture the ring between the two, at a lower torque.

I don't think so, the bolt head is on the outside (where all this is) and bolt shank is not threaded all the way to the head. The threads go up into the riser or in my case TBars.

Plus I would think that might interfere with proper torquing of the bolt.