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Chassis alignment

Set your powertrain so the swingarm pivot is horizontal when the steering neck is vertical (side-to-side). That is, 90° between the axes when looking from the front or rear. In conjunction with this, you want to ensure the rear axle is completely parallel to the swingarm pivot and have the centerline of the rear tire to pass through the centerline of the steering neck. You also want the front tire centerline to pass through.

Be aware that when you change the front link to work on the front-to-back alignment you'll also change the vertical alignment. You need to walk both the front and top links in tandem.

I think my '07 touring shop manual spec'd something like a 3/16" band running front to rear that the tires should track within.

If you've ensured proper physical alignment and you still get a "lead" (pull) to either side, it's time to strap on some lead weight and/or pack your bags accordingly.

You can swing your rear tire toward the direction of lead, throwing your wheels out of alignment, and mitigate the lead. But this makes the bike dog-track, and when you don't have the wheels/steering-neck in proper alignment you open a whole 'nother can of handling worms.

I'm confident that the majority of the problems "solved" by True-Trac, &c. installations could (should?) have been addressed with a comprehensive alignment.
 
spartacus55 said:
i do not have this problem on my 2007 road king let go of the handlebars and it tracks srtaight and true
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The fact that one, or many, are well balanced indicates to me that they all could be.

Glens: I've got the shop manual and am remaining within the limits given. So far, I have noticed no adverse handling, but I don't habitually drag the foot boards getting on and off the interstates.
 
btsom said:
The fact that one, or many, are well balanced indicates to me that they all could be.
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In the past, I remember riding my '92 dyna for miles with no hands on the bars, making corrections by shifting body weight. Last month I was on a nice road and took both hands off the bars of my '07 FLHTC. I was able to stay in my lane for about a 1/2 mile, I felt that was enough to prove it was tracking straight.
 
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Decided to try one more time and hit a good setting. Driveline is set dead center but tilted 1/2 degree to the right. So the bottom of the rear tire is slightly left of centerline, the top slightly right of centerline, and almost no weight shift is required to go straight no handed. It easily controls both left and right with just slight weight shift. This is on an 08 Road King Classic.
 
I've heard several riders complain of the "pulling left" problem and all of us have 2008 Road Kings. I've had my RK to 3 different shops to check out allignment, replaced front tire and front wheel, and played with the various adjustments myself. My RK still drifts slightly to the right. 2007 and 2009 models I've ridden track straight.
HD's pat explanation is that the mc is slightly heavier on the left, roads are not perfectly flat, etc. It's all bull.
In my opinion, the problem is in the design of the neck bearing. If you put your 2008 RK on a center stand, you will notice that the front wheel turns significantly to the right of center. When on the road, this causes the bike to counter-steer itself to the left.
That's my opinion. As always, I might be wrong.
 
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