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Chrome and metal care

Wash any surface dirt off with warm water, dry it off then spray the Engine Brightener on, allow it to dry then wipe any excess residue off. Its specifically designed to restore that new engine black look.
 
glider said:
Nope, once it's pitted it has to be re chromed. Nothing will take it out.
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It is not that bad yet, you cannot even tell unless you really look, it may not even be pitted, but more of a little bit rust spots or oxy spots. The front rim is the only spot on the bike showing any signs of oxidation. I am putting on new Long shots,so I am not too worried about the exhaust. All the other chrome looks brand new. I heard of a product called capt Richards cleaner, ever hear of it??.
 
Personaly, I sware by WD40.A couple of times a year I hose all the linkages,chrome,spokes and the entire engine down with it.Let it sit overnight, or all winter and wash it off with whitewall cleaner.Sounds extreme but it works.Have you ever bought a piece of sheet metal?Bare steel, no primer yet no rust..Why?Its coated with a petrolium based product {basicaly WD40}.In todays world of subpar chrome the edges are an afterthought.Ive been doing this for 10 years to my 96 Springer and I can honestly say theres not a rusty bolt on it.As long as you take care not to saturate the rubber products it works great.
 
you might try semi-chrome polish. It's used by jewelers on fine metals. a little bit goes a long way. just be sure not to concentrate on one area too much or you'll burn through the chrome!
 
whatyardwork said:
Personaly, I sware by WD40.A couple of times a year I hose all the linkages,chrome,spokes and the entire engine down with it.Let it sit overnight, or all winter and wash it off with whitewall cleaner.Sounds extreme but it works.Have you ever bought a piece of sheet metal?Bare steel, no primer yet no rust..Why?Its coated with a petrolium based product {basicaly WD40}.In todays world of subpar chrome the edges are an afterthought.Ive been doing this for 10 years to my 96 Springer and I can honestly say theres not a rusty bolt on it.As long as you take care not to saturate the rubber products it works great.
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I am just curious, why the whitewall cleaner???.
 
On the hot chromed surfaces like pipes, heat shield, covers, if you get something on it like melted plastic (shoe soles) or baked on road goo, I have had great luck just using super fine (0000) steel wool. Cleans off that stuff without marring the chrome. Use it with the soap and water I am washing the bike with. Actually, I pre-treat the whole bike with Simply Green from a hose end sprayer (4oz./gallon setting). While it is soaking, I hit the stuff on the chrome with the steel wool, then wash the bike with car wash concentrate in a bucket of water. Dry it. Then hit it with the Pledge. Yes, I am converted!!

TQ
 
Flitz silver polish takes the pitting away and it looks really good ,but only for a short period of time unless you clearcoat it.It's an old used car dealers trick.
 
The "Autosol" I mentioned earlier is a german metal polish and it gives excellent metal protection. I've used it to polish up alloy and steel on engines for shows, it gives a chrome quality finish. I also use it on chrome for its protective qualities. But as glider pointed out once the pitting starts its hard to stop, if you can get some its worth a try. Safe riding.
 
Irish Hog said:
I am just curious, why the whitewall cleaner???.
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Metal is porous to a degree and will soke up a little of the WD,its the remaining residue you want to get rid of.Ive found white wall cleaner to do this very well.Simply spray it on, let it sit for a minute and hose it off.Then wash the bike.
 
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