HOLY DIVER
Junior Member
what was the mileage when your engine went south Jack?
Crankshaft run out blues
- Thread starter HOLY DIVER
- Start date
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Jack Klarich
Guest
27,200, no knocks ,ran good in fact I rode it to the dealer with the rod bearings knocked out of it and a cracked oil pump
HOLY DIVER
Junior Member
wow thats funny my Deuce has 27,500 and i rode mine to the shop with a chewed up oil pump mine was also running fine and strong,now should we break our new motors in on full synthetic? or dino oil?i've never had a fresh motor lol never broke one in.i have always used mobil1 v-twin 20w-50 so i'm thinking i'll use the mobil1 to break it in and change it after 500 miles.what you thinking?
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Jack Klarich
Guest
Synthetic will be fine as H D now ships from the factory with Syn3
dolt
Well-Known Member
Rings will seat faster with conventional; don't know any builders that break in on synthetic. Dump oil after first 50-100 miles but not filter; change oil/filter at 500 miles and again at 1000 and if you want to run synthetic, the 1000 mile oil change is the time. The first 50-100 miles are the most important for ring seal; should be seated by then. Important to discuss the first 50-100 miles with builder. If those first miles can be rolled up on a dyno so load can be applied, the rings can be seated that way, AFR checked for a "break in" tune. JMHO.
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Jack Klarich
Guest
I agree with you here and have always used Dino oil for my break in and changed oil and filter @ 100 miles, 500 miles and 1,000 miles on all my bikes yet H D says thisRings will seat faster with conventional; don't know any builders that break in on synthetic. Dump oil after first 50-100 miles but not filter; change oil/filter at 500 miles and again at 1000 and if you want to run synthetic, the 1000 mile oil change is the time. The first 50-100 miles are the most important for ring seal; should be seated by then. Important to discuss the first 50-100 miles with builder. If those first miles can be rolled up on a dyno so load can be applied, the rings can be seated that way, AFR checked for a "break in" tune. JMHO.
. Note the last sentence:
"Screamin' Eagle® Synthetic Motorcycle Lubricant - SAE 20W50
TESTED-CERTIFIED for use in Harley-Davidson Engine, Primary Chaincase and Transmission applications, the new Screamin' Eagle® SYN3 Synthetic Lubricant makes changing and topping-off fluids a simple, one-product process. Developed with a proprietary blend of three synthetic basestocks, Screamin' Eagle SYN3 Lubricant is formulated to provide for long-term protection and engine cleanliness requirements and to provide superior high-temperature protection for high-output engines. SYN3 is formulated to maintain the coefficient of friction for proper clutch operation and to provide the proper lubrication to the primary chain drive. In addition, SYN3 is designed to provide the correct lubricity for the anti-wear requirements of transmission gears and for improved seal protection. This formula is approved by Harley-Davidson for use in all stages of engine life and is not detrimental to the break-in stage of engines."
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Jack Klarich
Guest
:s Thank you for ALL you do here @ HDT, you have made a solid contribution to helping all the members and I for 1 respect your opinions and read your posts:s
Ditto!
dolt
Well-Known Member
Jack Klarich said:
Just to clarify, I did not say that H-D synthetic, or any synthetic, was detrimental to engine break-in and I hope no one read that into my previous post. However, I do believe that rings will seal quicker with conventional oil than with synthetic and quick ring seal is the key to a successful build, at least for me. I can't cite studies and scientific data but my experience, limited as it may be, indicates same. I use Shell Rotella 15W30 exclusively for breakin, dump it after 50-100 miles and switch to H-D20W50 conventional. I don't switch to the H-D oil because it has H-D on the bottle; the specs prove it to be a dang good engine oil.
I am not being argumentative but did want to clarify my previous post; I have nothing against synthetic oil, I just think conventional is better for breakin.
I have broken every oil "rule" in the book; I have changed from a multi viscosity conventional to a heavy straight weight conventional; ambient temps hit 100*+ all over south Texas today. I have mixed synthetic and conventional; I have changed from conventional to synthetic and back to conventional. I don't get to tweaked up about oil. As long as a product suitable for the application is being used, the proper filter is being used and the oil is changed at proper intervals, it really doesn't matter what oil one chooses to use. But, as usual, that's JMHO.