Engine starting

[DynaBike]

You only have 2K mikes on an '07.
If so, has the problem been this way since New or is this something that has recently developed?

Also, there are no other issues with how the bike runs other than starting? No roll on throttle bogs, everything else normal.

I bought the bike used, this summer, from a local Harley Dealer, so I can say it's always been this way since I have had it, but that's not saying a lot historically speaking. Runs great, no problems.

No mods. The only thing on this bike that isn't stock is the seat

I would assume if there were a mixture problem, I'd get some indicator, a check light ?

 

[Hoople]

I had a similar problem on my bike when it had under 3.5K miles. The engine was just so tight because it was new. Once the engine turned past 3500 miles, it was a World of difference for me when starting.. Now the engine spins faster and starts better without making any changes. But, some technical things that it could be..........

The bike has 2K miles on it and other than warm start up, the bike runs fine (especially idle & mid cruise is Fine). I will then assume you don't have an intake manifold vacuum leak.
Since you have a cable driven throttle body, you can try giving the engine less or more air using the twist gripe when starting up. I am not saying that will fix it, but notice if there is any change when trying to start it. Example: If you gave it more air and the problem got worse, I would say your cranking fuel table needs a hike. The fuel you are giving the engine while cranking is controlled by the "cranking fuel table" in the ECM and not the twist grip. That table is something you can't control on the fly while starting but it can be changed by the dealer or yourself using a laptop & proper software..
I don't know what brand of fuel you are using but don't rule out your brand of fuel. They all have different flash points.

If the brand of fuel or twist grip position along with adding some miles to the bike doesn't do it, then the cranking fuel table may need to be altered.

 

[Bud White]

no you wont get a light if its a mixture prob .. only if a sensor went bad and set a code

 

[maine-e-axe]

Maybe vapor lock or hot fuel or gas cap vent, just a thought:57:

 

[DynaBike]

I only run Shell or BP premium. I add Stabil to my fuel. I'll switch to Sea Foam and see what happens. Not a big deal, it does start, just seemed a little odd. Perhaps given a little more mileage, it will self heal

I did have a battery charge problem when I first got the bike. The dealer checked it out and told me I had a loose battery cable. It is possible I guess that when I take the bike off the tender for the initial start the battery is 'fresher' and subsequent starts don't get the same power... probably take a new battery to test that theory

 

[Hoople]

This may help. Here is the cranking Fuel table (choke) that is being used in my bike by the ECM. I don't know if these numbers are ADDED to the existing injector duration or if they are TOTAL injector duration but it really does not matter for this example. The table shows injector pulse width in m/s vs cylinder head temperature. If the head temperature is 68 degrees F, the cranking injector duration will be almost 40 m/s and if the head temp is 176 degrees or greater (which is really not that hot) , the injector time is cut in half or ~ 1/2 the fuel is injected.

 

[DynaBike]

Hoople, thanks for the information. It would seem I have an EFI bike and a carburetor brain I had no idea the fuel volume was regulated like this. Do you know if the injection occurs with every intake stroke during startup ? If so, this could theoretically account for the difference I'm seeing...

 

[Hoople]

Just guessing I would say yes. It would mimic a butterfly choke just like on a carb.
On an EFI it would not be a difficult thing to experiment with. The cylinder head sensor can be easily subbed with a fixed resistor just to see if the bike will start better when Hot while forcing the ECM to think it was cold.. If it does not, then you know changing the ECM table won't help. I am sure there is a Temp vs resistance table in the Electrical service manual you could use to fake out the ECM.

 

[jaxdwg]

When I first get on my bike cold, I just bump the ignition and the engine fires right up. If it's warmed up, like at a gas stop, it still starts, but I may have to hold in the starter for what seems like excessive time... 10/15 seconds maybe, or let off and try again for 10/15. Is that normal ?

Have you changed the plugs? I've found that some of the aftermarket plugs don't do as good as the stock ones when starting, just a thought, but with no other info from you, miles, mods, age of battery, etc. hard to diagnose