Exploded view of CV carb

[fin_676]

An se back plate is a better idea than drilling the stock back plate however when I did the drilling I did not have an se back plate to hand and parts can take up to 3 months to get to me so it was a temporary stop gap
At the time I had suffered a lot from carb icing and had purchased a mikuni hsr carb kit that should have come with a air cleaner cover with a cut out at the bottom to allow for more air
I did want to draw warm air from the engine to try and overcome the icing however the mikuni throat does not compress the air as much as the stock cv therefore the air does not get so cold so the jets do not get cold enough to freeze the moisture in the air

Brian

 

[dolt]

An se back plate is a better idea than drilling the stock back plate however when I did the drilling I did not have an se back plate to hand and parts can take up to 3 months to get to me so it was a temporary stop gap
At the time I had suffered a lot from carb icing and had purchased a mikuni hsr carb kit that should have come with a air cleaner cover with a cut out at the bottom to allow for more air. I did want to draw warm air from the engine to try and overcome the icing however the mikuni throat does not compress the air as much as the stock cv therefore the air does not get so cold so the jets do not get cold enough to freeze the moisture in the air

Brian

Understand. Living in south Texas, I forget that the winter season in some places requires that bikes be stored for months. Carb icing is something I won't ever have to deal with; I just won't live where that condition is possible. Next time you are looking for an SE backing plate, let us know. I think I have one in the parts bin that I would have sent you.........

 

[Scruffman]

My back plate is the oval shape and I was thinking about cutting the extra opening at the back side of the plate, and going up one size with the jets. Holes on the cylinder side to me will draw nothing more than heat?

 

[dolt]

My back plate is the oval shape and I was thinking about cutting the extra opening at the back side of the plate, and going up one size with the jets. Holes on the cylinder side to me will draw nothing more than heat?

Opening up the backing plate to allow more air will certainly help. I am just not sure that some holes in the backing plate will allow enough "new" air into the intake to require more fuel. Only one way to find out though, drill the holes, see how the bike runs, do some plug cuts to check AFR and increase jetting if the plug cuts indicate a lean condition. I would think that the most you would have to do is go up one size on the slow and main, 45 slow to 46 and 190 main to 195. Shim the needle .025"-.050" with washers. Set the A/F mixture 2.5-3.5 turns out; you will have to listen to the motor to find the idle sweet spot. You should also visit the Nightrider website and read the information their about tuning the CV carb. The advice I have given is a common start point. Every motor is different; you just have to give it want it wants and nothin more or less. You can find the CV parts at Johns Cycle Parts and/or CV Performance web sites.

 

[Scruffman]

Thanks for the website information, I actually found it a while back and forgot about it.
I was looking at the stage one mods, and the say 64 hp? What is a stock 01's hp?
I found 68? So which is right...
But stage one is for me..... I just like to cruise..

 

[dolt]

Thanks for the website information, I actually found it a while back and forgot about it.
I was looking at the stage one mods, and the say 64 hp? What is a stock 01's hp?
I found 68? So which is right...
But stage one is for me..... I just like to cruise..

We are talking peak numbers, yeah? Peak HP for a stock TC88 should be about 60HP; Stage I should see about 70. Both numbers are peak and mas o menus; could be a bit less or a bit more, depending on parts configuration and state of tune.

 

[Jack Klarich]

This is my post with the help of dolt