free website stats program Finished my MasterCylinder | Page 2 | Harley Davidson Forums

Finished my MasterCylinder

Well Brian just because 'you' said so, I'm gonna put wee barrier of the well known brand. That way I can just be a wee bit happier on the whole affair. :cheers



Oh lord Glider there ain't no money in doing that. It's tedius work. If I had the money I would of just bought a $3xx.xx chrome one.



Well I'll be glad to share all the ins and outs of doing it whenever you do it. Don't really know why HD puts paint on these things (well obviously for curb appeal ) but it just ain't very functional. When I went to put my new gasket on I found paint INSIDE ON THE BOTTOM of the cap. And it was bubbling off also. So I had to scrape the inside of the cap which was also time consuming since it ain't flat everywhere, has ridges and numbers. Anyhow got everything off and out that might get into my fluid. And then rinsed the dickens out of the whole affair with denatured alcohol. It'll dry overnight.



Thanks Jack will do.

----------------------
By the way guys I have a question. I put the little plastic cap thingy in the new gasket and then inserted the new gasket. Got it in and pulled up the wrapping sleeve on top real good. BUT ... my little plastic thingy was sticking up too high. So with some difficulty I got it to slide back almost all the way down flat (like it was on the old one) . Did I do this right or is there some trick to this ?

And what is that plastic thingy for anyway ?

Would that be the viewing port on the top of the cap?:s
 
Would that be the viewing port on the top of the cap?:s

Yea I assume that's what it's for although don't matter what color I hold it over I can't see anything thru it. Not much of viewer to me.

But anyhow I put the flat top part thru the gasket center hole where it was in but up far enough so it was still loose. Then I installed the gasket into the cover. But then the plastic viewer proved to be a chore to slide it back down. And it seem likes it's still not 'seated' but just barely back down flat.
 
Did you assemble the site glass from the bottom of the top cap?
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J03735.pdf

Yea I put the flat top viewer window part thru the bottom of the gasket. Then pushed the rubber flange of the gasket up and thru the cover hole. I then pulled (with great difficulty) the viewer back down so that the flat view window is nearly flat with the rubber gasket. But it isn't quite all the way down.

I could put some slickum on it, but don't know what kind that would not interfere with brake fliud. Guess I could put a fluid on it.
 
The diagram isn't to clear, does the window fit into a groove in the gasket or just pressure from the bottom? If pressure from the bottom what seals it at the top?
 
The diagram isn't to clear, does the window fit into a groove in the gasket or just pressure from the bottom? If pressure from the bottom what seals it at the top?

Well more like the gasket fits (stretches) into a 'sleeved' area on the window thingy. But this sleeved area is very tight. Think I'm gonna just push it back up high and put a dab of brake fluid on it, and then slide it back down.

Think I read somewhere they had a problem with the older gaskets leaking so they may have made the new gaskets super tight tolerance. I think it will be ok, was just curious.

At 4yrs old and going on 16,000 miles I guess it needed a new gasket anyhow. But if I had known the inside bottom of the cap was also painted (and peeling) I would have just removed the gasket during sanding and reused it. I could have shoved some paper towels in there and topped that with masking tape, or possibly I could of got the cap tight (without the gasket) before the screws bottomed out.

BTW I've never been able to 'view' anything thru this window. I know the manual says something about it showing a different color when it's empty but I've held it over aluminum, or my black grill or just don't matter what, it all looks the same down thru it.
 
BTW I've never been able to 'view' anything thru this window. I know the manual says something about it showing a different color when it's empty but I've held it over aluminum, or my black grill or just don't matter what, it all looks the same down thru it. Dave I can never view it either, H D should have been like metrics and put a window in the side:s
 
Well my Master Cylinder paint has been peeling since I before first bought the bike used. You all know what a few fluid leaks does to that OEM black paint (or any paint). So I came up with this hair brained idea to strip the paint off it and sand back up thru all the grits and then polish it.

As you might guess a Master Cylinder does not lend itself to such activity easily. It took some redneck determination (and the fact that I've spent all my money on TBars and other stuff and can't afford to just go buy a Chromed Master Cylinder).

Well to make a long boring story short, I stuck an ear plug in bango hole, left the old gasket in place, and spent several hours of sanding and polishing. It still has few small scratches where the stipping process went to deep to sand totally out, but it looks good enough for a Master Cylinder and now hopefully (if I keep it polished) the fluid won't ruin the finish like the paint did.

Next I'm headed out to the HD shop (yes the one that treats me so well :lolrolling ) to get a new gasket. Then I'm gonna pop the cover and wash the whole thing in denatured alcohol and then mount it on my new Tbars. Feel pretty good about it.

Here's a few pics,

1660833-T800600.jpg


1660831-T800600.jpg

Nice job, almost looks chrome!!
 
Nice job, almost looks chrome!!

They did turn out nice. I spread a paint stripper on first and let it sit over night. But it doesn't get all the paint off, just makes it come off easier. I didn't try it, but just sitting the part in a coffee can of brake fluid might work as well as paint stripper.

Working all the way back up to finally 1500 grit sand paper will get most all the scratches out ( it will get all of them if you didn't have to go too deep to remove the paint). You spend most of your time on the 120 to 150 grit. Then step up 100 grit each time washing and wiping it after each. Remember, before you move one to the next grit make sure you can live with any scratches you still see, cause the higher grits will not make it go away. I had to leave a few scratches in the creavases I could not access that well. It's tedious work.

But the real polish look comes from the white color polish bar (from my H.F. polish kit). On something like this I rub it on by hand with a cotton rag. Just rub the rag on the white bar a bit and then rub it in different directions on the part. For some 'very minor' scratches still trying to show, you have to apply a bit of pressure with the rag. (White color bar is for soft stuff like copper and aluminum, Green is for stainless and Black is for carbon Steel.)

It's the polish bar - rag treatment that delivers you from a very smooth sanded hue, to a bright polished look. In fact you don't want to bar polish an item that will reflect sunlight. I polished my old Cobra Tach housing, which also is an integrated bar clamp, and I had to put masking tape over it when riding from noon to 2pm in the summer or it would reflect a direct sun ray back into my eyes. The flatter a surface becomes the more magnitude of refective power.
 
Man, I have to stop reading here. Ever since I read this it has been bugging me. Now I was outside with the kids yesterday watching them and Pledging the bike. When I got to the handlebars, all I could see was the bubbled paint and think about your pics...Here is hoping the bike sells before winter so I do not create myself a winter project. Although I will have to repaint, probably with my can of wrinkle black or pick up some gloss black as my handlebars are powercoated black along with most of the rest of my bike.

Thanks RWB :p
 
Back
Top