Foam in oil tank

[TQuentin1]

glider - I boiled the dipstick in water - I assume, about 212 degs. and the dipstick temp gage showed 210 degs. So, it appears to me that the dipstick gage is pretty accurate. At least close enough - which would tend to indicate my engine oil temps are running about 200 degrees. That day I rode, 2 up (wife) the ambient temp - south Louisiana - was about 70 degrees and I was riding between 40-60 mph - put a total of about 80 miles on with about 40 or so just before stopping at home and checking the oil levels. I think I just need to change out the engine oil and re-check it all over again - cold and hot.

It may be (and I hope so) that I just simply checked the oil too soon after stopping the bike at home. I killed the bike -- got off - looked around ~ 15 seconds for a shop towel - then checked the oil level. Basically, stopped the engine and immediately checked the oil level and couldn't get a good reading on the dipstick - looked inside and saw the foam.

Bill

You will be surprised how long it takes to raise the whole volume of oil in the tank up to operating temperature. If I read your note above correctly, the last outing was a total of 80 miles, with the last stretch being only 40 miles from last engine start. If this was mostly highway or at least fairly constant speed stretches rather than stop and go, 40 miles is not very far. Often when I ride to and from work (50% highway, 50% surface roads), my engine oil temp gauge breaks over the lowest mark about half way to my destination, and is only in the 170-180* range by the time I get home (or to work). That is about 25 miles. So getting to 200* as a final temp level could be about right.

But your comments about the engine oil condition are troubling. I would suggest changing it yourself right away. Whether you pick dino or synthetic is not as significant as KNOWING what is in there and its condition.

I personally prefer the synthetics in my bike (not the primary though!). I bought the bike used with 43,448 miles on the clock. I changed the oil and filter about 4 times using HD dino and HD filter, and at 58,108 went to full synthetic Mobil 1 Vtwin 20W50.

Glider is right that the synthetics, with their additive packages, do a better job of cleaning up the oil system, but in my case, I did not develop any leaks. The main reason I switched was that I had a cam chain tensioner nuke and wanted better lubrication and lower temp.

I now have 76k+ miles on the bike. I do not have any leaks that I would blame on the synthetic engine oil. But I have swapped out the tranny for an SE 6-spd and done the roller chain conversion, so it is really not an apples to apples comparison with someone that has only changed oils.

Which ever way you go, use the "recommended" oil change miles figure as a MAXIMUM. Use your riding conditions and the stress that puts on the oil to adjust DOWN from that maximum. Many of us suggest changing oil about 2,500-3,000 miles or every 6 mos. Since you are in S. LA, you will likely be riding all year, so you will probably not be "putting the bike" away for an extended down period. Always a good idea to err on the side of changing the oil too often then not often enough, IMHO.

TQ

 

[Billbo]

many thanks TQ. I am especially happy to hear you changed to syn oil after all those miles using dino oils. right now, some say use syn and some say don't. I think I will stick with dino oil in the engine for a couple of changes anyway. I just found online that Valvoline makes a dino oil for 4 stroke motorcycles in 20w50. I can use this in the engine and primary and I also think I will put the synthetic oil - maybe mob 1 in the transmission.

thanks for your advice and help here TQ.

Bill

 

[Dan89FLSTC]

First of all…43,000 miles is not a lot of miles.

Easiest way to check oil on a Softail is to stand the bike up and look into the tank, the oil level should be about 1/2 to 1 inch below the dipstick/filler neck. Forget about the dipstick.
It is ok to check the oil when the engine is cold, I always look into the tank before I ride, but don`t add oil until you run the engine for a little bit to be sure any oil that may be down in the crankcase has been scavenged back to the tank.

When you change the oil, put 2-1/2 quarts in, then check the level after you ride it and get it hot. Mine takes about 2-3/4 quarts. Don`t put 3 quarts in, or it will be overfilled. Overfilling will cause excessive oil out the breather.

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

many thanks TQ. I am especially happy to hear you changed to syn oil after all those miles using dino oils. right now, some say use syn and some say don't. I think I will stick with dino oil in the engine for a couple of changes anyway. I just found online that Valvoline makes a dino oil for 4 stroke motorcycles in 20w50. I can use this in the engine and primary and I also think I will put the synthetic oil - maybe mob 1 in the transmission.

thanks for your advice and help here TQ.

Bill

Bill, either way dino or 100% syn...the key is to change it right away. Using dino oil to flush system every 1000 miles for 2 or 3 times is probably fine, and dino oil in our mild climate really is up to it. On older models, the mixture was not so lean and temperature stresses were much less. Just get that clean oil in there quick, changing it with the oil filter and use a drain tray to minimize the mess. Look in the Self Help section to be sure...

 

[Billbo]

First of all…43,000 miles is not a lot of miles.

Easiest way to check oil on a Softail is to stand the bike up and look into the tank, the oil level should be about 1/2 to 1 inch below the dipstick/filler neck. Forget about the dipstick.
It is ok to check the oil when the engine is cold, I always look into the tank before I ride, but don`t add oil until you run the engine for a little bit to be sure any oil that may be down in the crankcase has been scavenged back to the tank.

When you change the oil, put 2-1/2 quarts in, then check the level after you ride it and get it hot. Mine takes about 2-3/4 quarts. Don`t put 3 quarts in, or it will be overfilled. Overfilling will cause excessive oil out the breather.

thanks for that info - very helpful indeed. My owner's manual - 2001 softail - says the oil capacity is 3.5 qts. But, I agree with you - easier to add than remove. If you had not said what you did - I - and most other folks - would just drain the engine oil - replace the filter - then pour in 3-1/2 quarts of fresh oil - just like the manual says. I like the idea of actually looking into the oil filler tube for oil level. Then all one really has to do is check it on kickstand - and upright - then compare the two to get a level that is OK per the manual. Good info - Thanks again.

Bill

Bill, either way dino or 100% syn...the key is to change it right away. Using dino oil to flush system every 1000 miles for 2 or 3 times is probably fine, and dino oil in our mild climate really is up to it. On older models, the mixture was not so lean and temperature stresses were much less. Just get that clean oil in there quick, changing it with the oil filter and use a drain tray to minimize the mess. Look in the Self Help section to be sure...

Well, I am just a tiny bit confused - synthetic or dino? I realize the consensus here is that syn is much better - and I would like to use it - but, I have read a few posts advising against it with high mileage (43K). Some say use it - some say do not use it. I know the choice is mine - but this forum, the people, and all their combined experiences, is why we all "ask questions" -- we (I) place a lot of stock in what I am told here. My main thing NOW - is to just change all the fluids and filters and use syn in the tranny.
I do know the importance of good, clean quality motor oil for the engine. That's usually one of the first things we want to do when we get a new bike (or most any other thing that has an engine) is check the oil levels and cleanliness. I am getting there with all ya'lls help.

Thanks to you and everyone here,
Bill

 

[glider]

Here's something else to mull over...

Complete Oil Change (softail) - Harley Davidson Community

 

[Billbo]

Billbo if you are going to stick with dino oil I would useH D 20/ 50 change it yourself change filter and recheck for foaming I think your bike holds 3 quarts of oil, Jack

Jack, you mentioned using HD 20W50 - is that the same as HD 360? If so, I read in the Thread - 4 bikes 4 oils test - that the 360 actually did not seem to be as good as the syn 3.

Bill

 

[glider]

Bill

Forget the Syn 3 even for discussion, it's an overpriced and under performing BLEND and not a real synthetic at all.

The HD360 is the 20/50 and one of the more decent dino oils despite who Harley gets it from.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Ditto what Glider said yes the H D 20/50 is the dino 360 oil, Jack

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Billbo, what I mean is use the dino oil cause it is cheap and available, just get that foamy stuff out of there. And yes Glider also posted the Complete Oil change kit, which uses an extra 32 oz of fresh oil to flush out the system. The kit is about $130, but for those with Softails, access to the two oil hoses is right up front. On my Sportster, the kit is a bit more because of the oil adapter at about $160 or so. But does FLUSH the system, and handy especially for those who have oil coolers (make sure the oil is hot enough to flush it out as well). One of those cases where the manual valve is better than the thermostatic valve...