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Fork Oil change and Progressive Springs

SilverFoXD said:
For my '07 Dyna the socket needed is the 1 3/8". Didn't find one to buy and wound up borrowing one from a buddy but would like to have one of my own. (If you find a source, please post.) A 35 mm is very close at 1.378" as compared to 1.375"; might ask the sales person if you can take the socket out to the bike to be sure it fits.

Also have the Progressive front springs but to tell the truth, couldn't tell much difference in the ride from the stock. I had them in my previous two metric bikes, and they did improve the ride, but apparently the HD springs are pretty good.

Doesn't matter which way you install them, per the Progressive instructions, as they compress the same in use. Be careful installing the cap, as others pointed out, as the threads are fine and easy to cross-thread.

FYI, the instructions I received specified a different length spacer than the one supplied. I went with the instructions, cut a new spacer from plastic pipe, took a trip and was disappointed. Replaced with the supplied spacer and all is well. Just be aware of a possible conflict, your bike has different diameter forks, uses different springs, and perhaps a different length spacer.

Good luck,

Silver
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glider said:
1-3/8 in. Socket, 12 pt.- Craftsman-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Sockets


Check your local auto-zone, the prices are usually better.
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With a 3/4 adapter and you will be fine:s
 
cmvsm said:
Says in my service manual that the forks do not need to be removed to change out the fork oil, and the Progressive videos state the same thing with respect to the springs.
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Yes the springs can be replaced without removing the legs from the triple trees.
My legs did not have lower oil drain holes as your must have on a 2002. Drain holes would have made it a lot easier for sure.

The medium (street) SE oil vs the stock Type E oil really gave my front shocks a nice feel. But of course "feel" is very subjective.

Let us know how it works out. I am curious about the progressive springs.
 
I'm doing my fork springs with Progressive springs right now. Few instructions to speak of with the kit. The springs are considerably longer than the HD stock springs. The HD spring is combined with an equally long spacer tube. Progressive's spring is much longer than the stock HD spring. They provide a short PVC spacer with their springs. The spacer sits on a washer and above the spring. It is supposed to sit 1/4" to 1/2" above flush with the top of the fork tube when fully extended. The 1/2" length of the cap bolt then gives the correct preload of 3/4" to 1". The spring can be put in either end up. Progressive recommends the tight wound end goes up to provide less spring noise as this end rarely will get compressed.
 
cdn-bigfoot said:
I'm doing my fork springs with Progressive springs right now. Few instructions to speak of with the kit. The springs are considerably longer than the HD stock springs. The HD spring is combined with an equally long spacer tube. Progressive's spring is much longer than the stock HD spring. They provide a short PVC spacer with their springs. The spacer sits on a washer and above the spring. It is supposed to sit 1/4" to 1/2" above flush with the top of the fork tube when fully extended. The 1/2" length of the cap bolt then gives the correct preload of 3/4" to 1". The spring can be put in either end up. Progressive recommends the tight wound end goes up to provide less spring noise as this end rarely will get compressed.
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CDN,

Let us know how you like that setup after you get some miles on it. I would be interested to hear the differences.

Bodeen
 
cdn-bigfoot said:
Progressive recommends the tight wound end goes up to provide less spring noise as this end rarely will get compressed.
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I remembered (post #5 above) the closer windings were supposed to be at the top, but I did not know "spring noise" was the reason. Thanks .
 
Just finished up my Progressive spring install and changed my sliders to HD chrome sliders. Just changing the springs would have been much easier than the complete rebuild I attempted. Still not too difficult for someone with average skills and a moderate amount of tools.
To change out the oil, seals and springs you will need a few "special" tools that may not be in your toolbox YET.
12mm long reach (3" or so) hex key in a socket wrench. An allan key cut to fit into a 12mm socket will work. You'll need a chop saw with a metal cutting blade to do that.
An impact wrench along with the aforementioned hex socket to remove the seat pipe bolt.
A seal driver will be required. I made one from a 2' long piece os PVC pipe with a cap on it to hit the hammer with. The 2"OD ABS was a little too tight to fit over the fork tube so I cut it lengthwise with a circular saw and it split open enough to work very well.
Follow your model's Service manual and you should have no problems.
The videos I posted on another thread helped me understand the process and tools required.

Dyna Front Suspension rebuild videos on YouTube
 
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