Fork oil

[Jack Klarich]

Hoop, you are correct, I was incomplete in that this is the video to show how you access the top to remove the springs and spacer so you have a straight shot at the fluid below ONLY. The drains are on the lower forks, and use what looks like a Phillips screw BUT it has a dimple on it indicating it is METRIC...here is where you use a hand impact tool, but only for the tight fitting bit and large handgripping surface to remove it without drama. Drain in a measuring cup, noting that it should be around 11oz. Use new fastener plug (just my way cause I prefer stainless steel and Allen head). I use Bel Ray, 7.5Wt (stock is 5Wt) cause I like the ride soft like stock, maybe a little bit stiffer, reassemble and repeat for the other side. Sorry, as I feel the removal of the top stanchion cap is the "trickiest" deal of the whole operation.

New Dynas do not have drain screws in the lower legs, The top caps have to come off to suck the oil out, Capital Jack

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Well Jack, you are probably right about the drain screws, but you know, if I was going to do the total rebuild route, I think I would bore scope the bottom, find a place, drill and tap hole to make a drain plug done right, just because I HATE things that make my life and maintenance difficult. JMO

 

[Jack Klarich]

Well Jack, you are probably right about the drain screws, but you know, if I was going to do the total rebuild route, I think I would bore scope the bottom, find a place, drill and tap hole to make a drain plug done right, just because I HATE things that make my life and maintenance difficult. JMO

I guess THE MOCO was counting on us not being that smart, That is a great idea NEWHD

 

[Hoople]

Changing front fork lube is no longer a regular maintance item. check you book.
50K service

Smitty, I think your right. My front end really felt soft with the Factory E oil. I just wanted to see what was inside the legs so I pulled them today and replaced the oil to SE #99881-87. The bike has just under 10K miles and the old oil looked like brand new. Not a bit of oxidation. I could have put it in a bottle and saved it. Looked perfect.

It started to rain so I could not test the new shock oil but the bike does "feel" better. Tomorrow I will get to ride and really see if was the right thing to do.

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Good deal Hoop, tell us how it feels with the new SE fork oil...and to hear that 10k was nice and clean...I remember when I changed mine at twice that and it looked pretty nasty.

 

[Hoople]

The rain finally stopped (3 days worth) and I was able to give the new fork oil a try. I like it,, I really like it. It kinda has the firm ride you would expect to feel if you jumped in a new Mustang GT. Firm but not to the point where you feel every crack in the road. Kinda like taking a Dyna and clicking it over to the Sportster side by just a notch.

For the cost of $25 worth of oil, I am glad I did it.

 

[Motopsycho]

Update. I decided to be bold and change the fork oil myself and found it to be a very easy procedure. I did it exactly as the manual said to do it: lift bike, drain, and re-fill with 11.1 ounces of fork oil. The manual suggests to replace fork oil at 50K miles. My bike has almost 28K and the oil I removed was pretty nasty looking. My forks are not the cartridge type, so that made it easier. Took the bike for a test ride on the freeway and she runs just fine. I watched some youtube vids on fork oil replacement and that's what persuaded me to do it myself. The hardest part was removing the nacele assembly.

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Congratulations on doing the task yourself. Pretty satisfying to do and the feeling of doing it right is pretty cool and really makes you "one" with your bike.

 

[Elmosac]

Update. I decided to be bold and change the fork oil myself and found it to be a very easy procedure. I did it exactly as the manual said to do it: lift bike, drain, and re-fill with 11.1 ounces of fork oil. The manual suggests to replace fork oil at 50K miles. My bike has almost 28K and the oil I removed was pretty nasty looking. My forks are not the cartridge type, so that made it easier. Took the bike for a test ride on the freeway and she runs just fine. I watched some youtube vids on fork oil replacement and that's what persuaded me to do it myself. The hardest part was removing the nacele assembly.

If removing the nacele was the hardest part you must have cheated. The book for an 07 requires you to remove the fork tube plug as you set the oil level without the spring installed. Putting the plug back on can be a bear. I changed my lowers out for black ones so short cutting by using the drain screw wasn't an option.

I helpped a buddy change his fork oil and he chose to just drain the old oil from the drain screw and add back in 11 oz. on each side. While this is not as percise as following the book he says he doesn't feel any differance or diving to one side or the other. He also said that the mech at the local dealership said they don't remove the fork to change the oil, even though that is what the book calls for.

I use the SE Heavy Duty Fork oil and really like the firmer ride it gives.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

He also said that the mech at the local dealership said they don't remove the fork to change the oil, even though that is what the book calls for.

How much you want to bet they charge for the time required to do that, though!