Front Brake Lever Switch

[gator508]

One "little" thing, there is a small copper spring wedge that pushes the switch away from the housing to allow the switch "nib" to contact the lever. Don't ask how easy it is too lose that wedge, so the switch sinks away from the lever...and no more brake light actuation. If you open up the switch control housing, you just might find that copper wedge sitting in the bottom...or on the floor in your garage, and it is NOT magnetic, so don't bother using a magnet pickup tool...

Another little thing, be sure you do not pinch any of the wiring when reassembling the housings, may cause a short, I found out the hard way. Good luck!

 

[Iceman24]

Be very careful with that switch it is real easy to break the button on it (I did just that) cost about 65 bucks for the switch plus labor for the repair, however dealer did it for free as EG was and is under warrenty.

Definitely want to be careful when working around this switch. I cut a small piece of plastic off old w/s washer bottle & use to protect switch whenever I work on the Right controls. Also, gotta be careful w/the torx screws on the controls - the heads snap off real easy - believe me, I know. No need to over torque...

 

[btsom]

Early on with my 08 RK, the throttle began to bind slightly. When reassembling after the lube job I broke the button off the brake light switch. It caused the identical symptoms you describe. Not wanting to spend the money and do unnecessary wire cutting, I got a very small nylon screw and cut the head off of it leaving a short section of screw remaining on the head as a centering guide. (about 1/16 of an inch) Then using weather strip cement, glued it to the rubber boot on the switch. It has worked flawlessly for over 2 years and 28,000 miles. The screws were available from an Ace Hardware store, the weather strip cement from Oreilly, Autozone and the like. IIRC, splitting and removing the switch case from the handlebar gives the easiest access to the switch. Using a rubber band to hold the brake lever in the brake applied position eliminates the chance of breaking off the button when reassembling the switch case to the handlebar.

 

[baddron]

I recently purchased an 06 Electra Glide and the cruise control was working erratically. I have figured out the problem. I can move the front brake lever in any direction and the brake light comes on. There is a problem with the switch, but unfortunatley I am not sure how to remove the lever and I don't know what is inside. Anyone had any problems with this and have a solution, or a good picture of what's inside.

Thanks
David Welch

ok, all good info, I did not brake my switch, thanks to you guys.

So, just to understand this a bit clearly! that little brake switch plunger appears to have to be compressed when everything is in it's relaxed position? (hands off the handle)

If so I may have a different problem.

My handle has a total back and forth clearance between the plunger and the switch of 1/32nd inch at the gap, it doesn't touch the switch and it doesn't touch the plunger. To get the brake lights off I have to push fairly far (1/8th at gap) and under the pressure of the switch to get the brake light off.

I assume the answer is yes it needs to compress that switch! it needs to be pushed in that far then how does that happen, the hydraulic plunger?

BTW: I had the Harley shop fix this and it worked for about 15 minutes, they said the switch was broken but I never had it apart, seems like something is slipping apart to allow that gap? I vacuum bled the hydraulics.

Thanks in advance.

 

[btsom]

How freely does the brake lever move, does it seem sticky in its movement? Is this a new or used machine, could a lever have been damaged and replaced with something close, but not exactly right?

From your description of how little the lever moves, I'm wondering if there is a problem with the master cylinder. I have never checked it out, but I suppose the return spring of the piston is what also pushes the brake lever to the fully stowed position. With the lever removed, does the piston seem to spring back enthusiastically or is it slow and sluggish?

 

[Route66rider]

I went through this issue on my '05. I tried the little copper wedge behind the switch without any luck. I pulled the lever by removing the snap ring on the pivot pin and very carefully removing the lever. I roughed up the arm that engages the switch and epoxied a # 4 brass nut to give it a bit more push. On my bike the switch is an 'always on' design and the lever needs to push the switch in to break the circuit.

 

[Hoople]

Route66rider,,, I believe Yamaha use to build a bike called Route66. That's not how you got your name is it?

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

One "little" thing, there is a small copper spring wedge that pushes the switch away from the housing to allow the switch "nib" to contact the lever. Don't ask how easy it is too lose that wedge, so the switch sinks away from the lever...and no more brake light actuation. If you open up the switch control housing, you just might find that copper wedge sitting in the bottom...or on the floor in your garage, and it is NOT magnetic, so don't bother using a magnet pickup tool...

Thanks for sharing but some how I can see you on your knees with a magnet.:s