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Fuse keeps blowing

sprinklerfitter669 said:
well my gut is telling me it is inside the bars, because the outer jacket that covers all the wires stops about an inch in, i did wiggle the wires, but fuse blows as soon i turn the key. So that is telling me the little wire, got rubbed up where the bars turn at the rise. No the question is do i attempt to fix my self? or ride it to the dealer??????
My concern is the wires inside the controls, and making a bigger problem and where to start. Do i have to mess with the brake lines? or clutch?
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No, you dont need to be worried about the clutch or brake lines to fix this.The key here is "can you repair wireing"?You dont want to fix already broken wires inside the bars.Thats just another problem down the road.

You want to run a new harness through the bars.If youre not comfortable with doing that, its ok.You've narrowed it down and will save some dough by doing so.Soldering is easy to learn, yet it pays to have someone realy good doing it (as you're learning).
 
i guess my main concern is taking the controls, and the housings off, i read somewhere a while ago, that ican be tough, because of the wire in the housings. I can tell the previous owner, when he changed the bars, extended the wires, wher the fork meets the frame, before going under the tank, because the wires look like they were put back together and shrink wrapped
I was thinking about cutting them there and doing the same to put them back together.
Does anybody know if they sell a complete harness for new wires? or do you just have to buy extensions.
 
In addition to WYW said, you can also use the existing wire to pull thru proper wiring after makeing sure all the thru holes are properly "radiused" or tapered to prevent wire insulation from being cut. Go to JP Cycles to find wire extension kits. The less splicing the better, and no wire splices in the tubes is a plus (less chance of damage or moisture intrusion.

Part of the problem is stock wiring was mainly external, but the Street Slammers have a clean "naked" look with two small tube risers integral with the handle bars, so many like to route the wires split between the two for "clean look"...and forget to relieve the sharp holes which cuts wire insulation easily.
 
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I had the same problem with my 2005 Heritage when it was new. There were two problems, first the main harness running through the cowl behind the headlamp had exposed wires to constant rubbing which shorted out the headlight. Secondly after I had taken her in a couple of times, the technicians found that the Voltage Regulator was allowing the battery to be overcharged at 17 volts.

John
 
Update.
Well i geared myself up, go extra wire, shrink wrap, new soldering gun.
I started by taking the throttle side off, and took the switch tob and bottoms off, but i did not disconnect the wires. My idea was to remove the tins around the head light and make splices behing their to hide them. So i removed the head light, tins, and was ready to cut, when i decided to take off the cluth side to get everything ready, when i took off the clamps that hold the clutch lever, i saw a wire pinched flatter than a pancake. I moved the wire from the metal, and tried a fuse. And success!! i found the short without having to go crazy. I taped it up, and tucked everything in the proper way. So i puit everything back on, and noticed a front turn signal bulb blown, i assume from all the fuses i tried?
So, i tried the signal, and only the rear light up, i tried the left right, hazards and nothing for the front.
Could this be because one is blown in the front, they both dont work?
the rear work.
Also, only the one element was blown? but both left and right dont work


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Also, when i first got everything back together, and turn the signal on for the right side, which had the blown bulb, the rear flashed rapidly than blinked normal. The left side front, did not work at all, and the rear left worked normal, could it be a relay?
 
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The bulb flashing rapidly is because both front & rear bulbs are not in the circuit because 1 is blown (Normal) when you replace the blown bulb it will work properly.
 
Re: Fuse keeps blowing UPDATE

HAPPY UPDATE !!!! :D:D:D:D

After racking my brain as to why the front signals did not work, i got the manual out, and started following the wire diagrams. To me it did not make sense why one bulb burnt out, did not allow the other to work. I found that where the wire for the signal went under the tank at the neck, there is a harness connecter, which i felt by sticking my fingers as far as they could go, was disconnected. I tried like crazy to get it connected, but as i was just ready to remove the tank, my neighbor came ove and used a smalll screw driver to conect it. And success !!!!!!!!
Now, by doing it myself, i diagnosed and found my short, and figured out the why the signals were not working, by taking my time, and thankfully i did not have to cut any wires.
Extra thanks to Chopper and Glider for talking me into doing it myself, and saving Hundreds from having the dealer fix it ...
 
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