Dan, you could be right...look here regarding everything you wanted to know about oil but did not want to ask...caveat...not all they list here has been verified: :newsmile061:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
Hard to find neutral
- Thread starter Andrei
- Start date
Dan, you could be right...look here regarding everything you wanted to know about oil but did not want to ask...caveat...not all they list here has been verified: :newsmile061:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
Andrei
Member
The distance between the end of the lever and the grip is around 2,5 cm.
The free play I am talking about is the distance from the cable ferule and the commands casing (see attached photo).
Hoople
Account Removed
Having 2.5cm (1") of lever travel before drive train engagement is Plenty for clutch pack disc separation with the lever pulled to the grip. Those are good numbers.
I would try going back to the oil you were using before the clutch change over or try the oil that Glider suggested. And check the fluid level also..making sure it is correct.
I would try going back to the oil you were using before the clutch change over or try the oil that Glider suggested. And check the fluid level also..making sure it is correct.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Looking at your command area you call it... The distance showing in between the cable end and handle housing could be a little Less and you will disengage the clutch a little More( allowing a little more pull)....
Just a question on those Nice grips?
Do they make a difference on the travel ? could be the problem... I used to use a fancy leather wraps over the tops on the ends of my brake and clutch handles. The space the Leather took-up was Enough to cause Me a problem like yours.
signed....BUBBIE
Just a question on those Nice grips?
Do they make a difference on the travel ? could be the problem... I used to use a fancy leather wraps over the tops on the ends of my brake and clutch handles. The space the Leather took-up was Enough to cause Me a problem like yours.
signed....BUBBIE
Hoople
Account Removed
Bubbie, I may be incorrect but I think his problem started when he changed to a Screaming Eagle clutch assembly and different oil.
Sounds to me all was fine until then.(?)
Would you know of any deliberate design differences in the SE disc pack that would allow for parasitic drag? That would make finding neutral difficult.
Sounds to me all was fine until then.(?)
Would you know of any deliberate design differences in the SE disc pack that would allow for parasitic drag? That would make finding neutral difficult.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Hoople,
I really believe that the SE clutch Requires "More Pull" to Release the clutch plates than the stock HD clutch pack. (.) Harley makes the SE clutch and should know it really needs a longer throw to make it work good... As far as I know, they don't offer a longer throw at the clutch handle and that is so simple of a fix. (carefully modify)
I would offer this Suggestion (again in time):
Please try to Adjust All the Free Play "Out" of the clutch cable to Pull More. Just to Try,,, not to leave it this way. Now I do believe the neutral problem will Not be a problem..
Me, I would Modify My handle to Pull a bit More and think the problem would be solved. Increase a 1/4 inch at the handle with normal 1/16" play in My book.
Just my thought.. I have answered once before Like this "way back ago" but no answer or recognition was given to My Suggestion back Then or in a form of Any reply if it worked... Gets old some times,
whether I am right or wrong I Try! and give! Lead a horse to water?
Maybe my water hole need refreshing:newsmile100:
I would like to hear about others who solved their problem here.
signed....BUBBIE
Hoople
Account Removed
Bubbie, That very well could be it. I would imagine the diaphragm pressure plate finger spring on the SE package would be stronger in order to lockup the pack better without possible slippage. That would require more cable pull to make up for some of the metal stretch.
I do know that I can take my bike (w/stock factory clutch) off the ground, start engine, put it in 1st gear, clutch pulled in to grip, brake off, and rear wheel will not start to turn until the lever is 3/4" away from grip.
The stock setup does have very little if any residual drag and plates are fully released. Don't know if OP bike would do the same.
I do know that I can take my bike (w/stock factory clutch) off the ground, start engine, put it in 1st gear, clutch pulled in to grip, brake off, and rear wheel will not start to turn until the lever is 3/4" away from grip.
The stock setup does have very little if any residual drag and plates are fully released. Don't know if OP bike would do the same.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Reading through all the post that apply here.
The very first I thought was addressed? The Oil, The SYN3 , In another Thread a while back, A bike with stock clutch Was showing the same problem of Not Wanting to Find Neutral... The SYN3 in the clutch chaincase WAS his problem and he came back later to say so... After changing out the oil to Formal+ it worked better with the Clutch Not Hanging Up..
I would use Formal+ from HD, Not SYN3 and that may Help solve the problem. I know we addressed the oil once but I don't know if it was changed out???
If so I hope he tries the adjustment I called out,,,,, Just To See.
signed....BUBBIE
The very first I thought was addressed? The Oil, The SYN3 , In another Thread a while back, A bike with stock clutch Was showing the same problem of Not Wanting to Find Neutral... The SYN3 in the clutch chaincase WAS his problem and he came back later to say so... After changing out the oil to Formal+ it worked better with the Clutch Not Hanging Up..
I would use Formal+ from HD, Not SYN3 and that may Help solve the problem. I know we addressed the oil once but I don't know if it was changed out???
If so I hope he tries the adjustment I called out,,,,, Just To See.
signed....BUBBIE
