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Have I opened a can of worms?

As a past automotive Mechanic / Machinist, as some posters have said here if you keep your machine stock you'll probably never have any problems. Once you change from stock, then you'll probably be chasing your tail around for a while making your "improvement" compatible with your machine's basic design. I've seen that situation over and over again. If you do your own work and repairs, and have the tools and knowledge, no problem: You'll just be spending a lot of time trouble shooting and compensating / adapting. However, if you have to pay a shop to do the experimenting, then plan on spending a ton of money.
 
What is your opinion of putting in some light cams like Andrews 21 or 26, when doing the tensioners?

Enjoy,
Rich P

Thats the cam that I put in my Bagger. Also did 95", D&D 2n1, ported heads as well. the 26 Andrews cam is a good heavy bike cam. I think you would like it. I know I do.
 
Thats the cam that I put in my Bagger. Also did 95", D&D 2n1, ported heads as well. the 26 Andrews cam is a good heavy bike cam. I think you would like it. I know I do.
I have no problem with reliability dropping somewhat, once having gone in. However, I have to go in (no choice) to replace tensioner shoes, even if that is all I do. That will require pulling the heads, or cutting the pushrods out. As long as I am in there, I might as well see if I can't get the EPA out of my way a bit more, by putting in some Andrews 21 cams. They are very light, with mostly a profile change, with very slight lift increase. I am strongly considering gear drive to get rid of the tensioner feet altogether. With that, the higher volume oil pump and torrington inner cam bearings. If it were not for what I have read about inner cam bearings and tensioner feet, I would keep the whole show closed up, but, having no choice I might as well see if I can't improve reliability just a bit, with just a nudge more performance.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
I have no problem with reliability dropping somewhat, once having gone in. However, I have to go in (no choice) to replace tensioner shoes, even if that is all I do. That will require pulling the heads, or cutting the pushrods out. As long as I am in there, I might as well see if I can't get the EPA out of my way a bit more, by putting in some Andrews 21 cams. They are very light, with mostly a profile change, with very slight lift increase. I am strongly considering gear drive to get rid of the tensioner feet altogether. With that, the higher volume oil pump and torrington inner cam bearings. If it were not for what I have read about inner cam bearings and tensioner feet, I would keep the whole show closed up, but, having no choice I might as well see if I can't improve reliability just a bit, with just a nudge more performance.

Enjoy,
Rich P

Stock TC 88 and Andrews Cam Spec Not sure how changing to a small cam like the 21 or 26 would drop reliability of the motor.

The Andrews and Woods conversion cam kits come with the new hi-flo oil pump. I like you, considered gear drive as well. My crank run out was to much so I opted for the conversion plate. Am I disapointed, NOPE! Best thing I did for my bike.

As for the cam bearings. You can get a set of torring-b inner cam bearings for the TC motor. Thats what I put in mine. It's a full needle bearing. Unlike the bearings that are in the motors from the factory. Changing those bearings are not hard. Get the bline bearing puller from Harbor Freight to pull them. Then you can use your old cam to put the bearings back in.

And while your in there might as well put in some new lifters too.

Cam shoes have to be replaced every XXXXXX amount of miles anyway. Im going to look at mine this winter when I take mine apart and put in the Woods .555 cams.
 
Latest update:

Oh, by the way, I forgot the horn quit working too.


Picked it up a little while ago.....clamp, gasket kit, stud, flange nut. Fixed the leak.

Horn relay went bad...that was fixed too.

Total was $167. keeps my grand total right at 4K since April.
 
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