nO HELICOIL, YOU NEED SOMETHING FOR THOS TO BOTTOM OUT AGAINST, IT WOULD JUST FALL RIGHT INTO THE OIL PAN.
Now for the lesson learned... I will use my 4" stubby ratchet wrench for secure all oil drain plugs going forward instead of my 12" Flex Head Snap-on ratchet and also only change the oil when I actually have enough time to do so.
Thanks for all the help guys. I took your advice and did some additional research. Looks like I have a lot of options here...
After much consideration I have decided to get a piggyback single oversized self tapping oil drain plug, I have also decided to purchase a Fumoto drain valve which I will hook into the piggy back plug on the self tapping drain plug. I am opting for the Fumoto, because I am afraid that even with retapping with the oil plug I may still have issues in the future. With the Fumoto I will never have to remove the plug. Based on the longevity (i plan to ride about 500 miles then reassess) of this fix I may just JB weld the self tapping plug in place.
Now for the lesson learned... I will use my 4" stubby ratchet wrench for secure all oil drain plugs going forward instead of my 12" Flex Head Snap-on ratchet and also only change the oil when I actually have enough time to do so.
The Helicoil has been in use since WWII when aluminum was finding many uses in aircraft, but stainless bolts would pull through soft aluminum allow threads. Helicoil relies on an inner tang at the bottom of the insert, locked to insertion tool to thread it in, but relies on the blind solid bottom of the hole to stop it and allow the tang to "break". Technically a regular drill is used to start, but a squared off drill is used to finish the hole so the bottom is flat and not dimpled, so the helicoil will come to a positive stop and break off the tang.