IF you Drained out the First contaminated oil already already (Once) and
then added the 30 w oil OR your regular lube,,,,,,,....Draining that out again will be enough and Should have cleansed out the inners of the tranny...
Now just put in the new supply of what you use...That should do the job.:s
Measuring out the FIRST oil that SHOWED contamination was the Idea of the Measurement to SEE how much liquid was in it... Not after, UNLESS the oil shows
all creamy again.
The spout is in a 180* Loop UP and Over to a downward position and bottom of opening is pointed toward the Void in front middle of where it comes out of the tranny cover top.
The tranny vent is also Used for the Primary Vent....
The Primary vents Air IN and OUT from the Primary to the Tranny.
Air Goes thru the clutch mechanical parts... Using the clutch throw-out rods Flat Side (machined flat on one side) for air "in and out" To the tranny for ventilation.. Only way the Primary gets to change the Air Pressure Changes from Heating and Cooling inside...
Might be a good Idea to look at the color of the primary lube also...(derby cover off and Just Look) Hopefully water was not inside there.. That should be even a tougher place to get water into...
Your Gear oil in the tranny had to have much more than JUST condensation in it , to turn ALL that lube to a creamy color...
IF you do short rides ALWAYS??? Start riding the bike for at least one FULL hour a week to allow the condensation built up to be boiled out..
Usually the motors (esp sportsters and softails) have the build-up of foam/condensation/combustion in their oil tanks, showing up as Foam and Moisture on top of the oil floating around and then causing the Dreadful
sludge build up inside.
Heat and fully warming and getting HOT (from riding not Sitting still) is the KEY NEEDED thing...
SO; go use THAT ; "needs to be ridden for long rides" as a GOOD Excuse NEEDED to GO for the long ride....
signed....BUBBIE